AALAWS

POST TWO of Three:

Also gave the dash area and inner firewall a coat of black - having it body colour means potentially having some orange showing through. So like the front headlight panels, having it black makes for a better finish IMO.

It was then time to modify/recreate the firewall panel to account for the new hydraulic clutch and brake booster mounting holes.
Took the old one and marked out a new one, added a few new holes, a lick of paint, reattached the insulated backing and we're away...

POST ONE of Three:

I have two steering boxes so i stripped one to get the gist of it, cleaned it up, bought a few new seals etc, gave it a lick of paint and it'll be ready to go once I set the backlash and fill it with oil.

2 hours ago, xsspeed said:

This was in an auto and would require heavy breaking at rest to resist rolling fwd as it was loading the torque converter

I get a bit of this with the high idle when cruising through town and it feels like it drives a bit by itself...

7 hours ago, Valiant said:

Can you block off the iac circuit and see if the idle drops?

Have the throttle cables got plenty of slack?

This is how it sits at the back of the engine - I'm assuming air flow is from right to left so would you remove the hose between the air regulator and the IAA unit or bypass the everything from before the air regulator?

The throttle cables across the plenum seem pretty good - the throttles were closing up nicely when disengaged if that's what you mean?

12 hours ago, xsspeed said:

Theres no vct on these right?

not sure......

1 hour ago, fletch said:

they have it on both inlet cams, see the bulge in the timing belt cover.

and answered ha ha......could it be a timing thing?

I've been trying to fix the idle with varying success.
It's been sitting at around 2000rpm, even at a warm idle, so I got a second hand IACV. I stripped it down and thoroughly cleaned it and fitted it on Friday.

I let it run up to temperature, unplugged the ACC solenoid and tried to use the Idle adjust screw to drop it down to the recommended range - even done right up - nothing changed. If all things went to plan, the idle would have been around 650 and then raised to the reccomended base idle of 700 with the ACC reconnected. This not working suggests either an issue with the throttle bodies or a vacuum leak.
From there I checked the angle of the TPS and managed to get it to drop to around 1000rpm, but once I got it home after it got a bit warmer it was idling back at 1500rpm - a overall drop of 500 from before so a small victory.

Today, after some more reading,  I checked the resistance across the solenoids on both the new and old IACV's and ran 12v across them to see if they clicked and engaged. They all ran about 2 Ohms above the recommended but still engaged so no major issues there?

"First off, check the solenoid resistance (don’t forget to clean the connectors first, as your readings won’t be accurate on an old corroded connector).
FICD => ~22 Ohm
AAC => ~10 Ohm".        Mine were about 24 and 12 ohms

I then cleaned the throttle bodies and checked they were correctly aligned. The passenger side intake hose had a small crack, once everything was clean I smeared a little gasket goo over it just to be safe.

And the result after all this?  Idle is now down to 1200rpm and the radiator fan isn't kicking in as loud too which is a bonus. Still not 700rpm resting idle though.....
next? clean out the air regulator? pressure test for a vacuum leak? If I'm going to fit a decent exhaust I don't want to have a loud drone on idle.

I'm a total noob at this so learning as I go - any Z32 guru's out there with some answers?

Maybe I didn't fuck up the mounts on my diff then after all 

1 hour ago, Bananaman said:

Will also draw your attention to the donor car you got.

Looks like the wheel position is consistent with what you have now.

Good spotting! funny thing is that it is neither that floor or diff that are in the current set up, but noted the positioning of the wheel!
I'm just going to run with it until everything is built up and see where the dust lies.....

who would have guessed an 40yr old car and swapping/bastardising parts would be problematic

went up home with the worker to measure everything up based of the repair manual.....
Everything was square and nicely aligned etc BUT Leaf spring mounts are sitting 10mm forward based on factory specs.......which isn't cut and dried because the image of the chassis in the manual was of the 2 dr sedan so meh!

Anyhoo - rear wheels  (which had different profile tyres and exaggerated the issue) were swapped to the front to get her rolling - I'll sort the rear axle "issue" another day.

yeah - just went up to the house with my worker to measure everything up.
From what I can tell, everything is centered and aligned re: the chassis and the mounts etc, if anything the floor has maybe been put in a few mm forward, but it is even.
The tyres are different profile on each side so that is exaggerating the issue, but the axle is sitting a bit off centre........I think it'll come down to seeing what it looks like once all the weight is in the shell, maybe using a shorter shackle for the rear spring mount to pull it in a bit...

worst case scenario I get some new springs made up?

looking at the pics, one side is worse than the other, maybe it's just a simple alignment issue with the leaf spring perches?

EDIT - turns out the shitty old tyres are a different profile so it is exaggerating the issue - but after measuring everything up, it is all even but sitting a bit far forward.

11 hours ago, azzurro said:

Looking nice man!

Re rear wheel centering in the arch, could it be an assembly error?

• Leaf springs in back to front? Have you put the driveshaft in yet? was it 'too long'? Could use it as a spacing check?
• Lowering changed pinion angle/more weight might centre? 
• Angled shims?
• spring/diff locating thinger not lined up?
• Weird angle of the photo?

 

Hey Mate!

I was so excited to get home last night and get her off the stands.......talk about wind out the sails!
The leaf springs can only go one way so that's not an issue.
I haven't got the drive shaft even made up yet and it's definitely not just in the photo......

The variables the way I see it are - AE86 Diff which has a wider diameter then the factory KE25, so the 2 inch lowering blocks will sit lower on the new diff than the old?
The leaf spring perches could be sitting a bit forward, but I'd imaging any variation there will be minimal.

The only other major variable is that is has the new floor, which was my first thought......is it too far forward?

I torqued everything while it was up in the air, as per the old Gregorys ke25 manual, but maybe I should have done that while on it's wheels?

looking at the pics, one side is worse than the other, maybe it's just a simple alignment issue?

Progress......maybe??

Well the rear axle/springs are all in and torqued up, as are the front hubs........and she has some wheels on.....

But I can't drop her onto the front wheels - the offset is all wrong and the tyres are touching the strut so I need to sort some different wheels for now ha ha.
There is some good poke on the rear wheel, maybe some room for more with the flares on.

BUT the rear wheels are not centred in the arch......Is this a MAJOR?
My first thought was maybe an over reaction?? "Shit the front mounts are too far forward from the new floor being swapped in"....has anyone experienced this??
As per my manual I torqued everything up while it was on the jacks.....would this cause the issue?

Oh boy....hopefully not a major!!

On 18/03/2022 at 10:12, matt007 said:

Love the spit stands you made, where are you in New Zealand, would love to try making some for a VW resto I'm doing,  would you sell them... etc etc

 

Cheers - I'm in the Waikato. Didn't take too long to make them up. Was my first fab job so was pretty fun to do. They are custom made to fit my chassis specifically, height and mounts etc.....
I'll be holding onto them at least until the car is finished which would be a few years at this rate ha ha

On 02/03/2022 at 11:54, Bananaman said:

Looking good mate, I am getting closer and closer to putting some of mine back together also.

You must be pretty stoked to be at this stage.

I have the added headache of trying to mount another sway bar up as the KE20 one doesn't clear the SR sump.

 

 

There's two types of KE2X sway bar.....the later one has more of a bend I'm it....will that work for you?

6 hours ago, sentra said:

was this in clarks beach last weekend? cool/unusual sight and drove past very slowly on the open road.

Nah, I saw a pretty similar one driving north through town here the other day. I was driving to the workshop to see how the work on mine was going, and for a sec I thought someone had pinched it already ha ha

Thanks for the interest boys

On 03/04/2022 at 08:48, yoeddynz said:

Fuck I love these cars. I've always thought they look far classier than the Toyota supras, mitsi gtslows.  

^This^
 

On 02/04/2022 at 16:40, NVMPAJ said:

I read the other day  Lamborgini used the lights for the Diablo 

You can buy the 'Nissan' ones for $300 odd and the 'Lambo' ones go for $1500 plus - great little side hustle if you could tap into the massive Diablo market
They had to remodel the Diablo as the pop ups wouldn't meet changing safety rules in the US at the time so these were the best off the shelf option available.