8ball

Cheers. Cant seem to bavigate that site on my phone ?

It shows 3 different caliper styles for them.

Which one is it that i need to look for?

-lockheed

-girling

-2.3 .... droopsnoot ?

* also are the hubs the same as hb and hc? Or does the hc use a different hub?

Trying to see what i need to look for 

Thanks. Typed in magnum and nothing?

Trying to find info on these. 

Do you have any pics of the brake and caliper setup?

Possibly some part no.s for the pads etc or the caliper brand such as girlock, Lockheed etc??

Or links to catalogs etc? 

Cheers.

Well if the price is right and body is good, then a dead engine isn't the be all and end all.

They're usually cheap enough for a 2nd hand xflow or ya can swap for a v8 or even a barra.

Dropped valve can do the same..

If be ripping the converter cover off and having a look. Also the rocker cover.

Buying non running unknown cars can be risky. unless its just a cheapie.

Yeah this was too.

We ran them in parrallel and series so it gave extra voltage yet also larger capacity. 

If you're just after a commute (then a different setup may be required.) We had this setup for a hoot. Probably ran 10-15mins. But most of it was flat out launches/drags and the odd burnout lol.

(Elec burnouts are weird)

You may want a few SLA batteries to keep it cheap and give you distance?

You may also find the electronics (speed controlller etc) as the juice killer.

A cheap inefficient motor and speed controller will not only give poor performance but also limit its distance of travel.

You may find swapping the motor etc for something better may enable you to run "less" battery for the same results or better.

Sorry. Still new to all the streaming stuff  lol bit old school haha.

I usually watch it live in person lol.

I kinda thought it was known.

I was watching from the summernats page.

Burnout Masters  qualifying, wildcard etc etc was all live.

Slept in for the go to whoa tho

Been watching all weekend.

All over now.

See if you can use the power tool (recreate/copy) the quick release clip i  setup for quick easy battery swaps.

And get the biggest amp hour ones you can get. (Ie 6.0 or 5.0ah)

Mate had one (was ild looked agricultural as f#ck lol)

We ripped it and fitted 6 Milwaukee batteries. And a new motor setup after we fried the original lol.

If you nailed it straight off you almost guaranteed to find yourself sitting on ya arse staring at the scoots about 10m away lol.

That thing was scary as f#ck.

Probably also due to the severe lack of brakingand shite handling lol

+1 for the batteries

If one can find them haha.

Cheers for that

Cheers.  So the bigger brakes are not worth it?

Or - its rubbish they kept 4 stud?

Definitely not gonna pt a 202 (or holden 6) due to their length and would have to chop up the firewall to fit.

Nah we called em toranas. And after HB they went LC and introduced the 6cyl.

Unfortunately non of the brakes etc are compatible. 

Been looking on evilbay. But nothing.

Are the HC still 4 stud?

Cheers.

Nah using the weight to see with engineer etc 

If they released with 1760cc in a chassis and engine weighs "X kgs" and this new engine weighs "x kgs" then they may not hassle to much for upgraded stub axles etc.

Thanks.

Ok all you vaxhaull enthusiasts. 

I have a query/question. Do any of you know what a 1760cc slant 4cyl engine weighs?

Think were in HC viva? And were in TA torana etc.

Cheers

Have several old dinosaurs myself. 

And a few hot 6's.

Each have there ups n downs.

The downs for a nice v8 is the rego. Constant fuel usage for a tough v8 even when tinkerbell herself is controling the throttle. ....

A hot 6 has an all together different sound. (Specifically the Non turbo ones) at full noise they're an angry sound8ng demonic thing.

The turbo 6s are a nice all rounder.  Usually cheaper insurance. Less juice if your light on throttle. And yet once you get into it all hell breaks loose and enough torque to satisfy any v8 lover.

I will always prefer old school over new though. 

I prefer that when i stand on the accelerater its me who decides when enough is enough, or how much im going to give etc.

New cars have to much computer cutbacks. (Even with traction control off)

The flyby wire on the GT is a pain even if you floor it the computer takes readings from everything  (temp, abs sensors etc etc) and it slows and limits the amount the throttlebody opens. 

Unlike my old school carby engines when the peddle is pushed the cable opens carby obligingly.

Drive a typhoon and tell me which has bigger balls....

(And i own a SC 335 GT, so can vouch for it)

The f6 is a beastly animal.

Yeah its why we recommend to run a higher octane fuel with injector cleaner as all the crap mixes with the fuel and makes it a shit concoction until cleaned out. Sometimes a double dose is required (as in do it twice - not 2 bottles at once)

Look into the airflow sensor or map sensor or maf or what ever it is they call it.

It could be stuffed etc or dirty 

He's obviously never driven a healthy turbo barra.

Or he'd prob be pale as and stink of shite... instead of just dribbling it lol

Yeah they used them for speedway.

A barra..... he doesn't want to pull intake off and you sugest a barra conversion lol.

Now that's a lot of work. .. want to be pretty attatched to the ea etc. Easier to just grab a ba/bf etc lol

Aussie speed do a manifold conversion to carburetor for them if you hate injection that much...

Or find a 3.9 cpi manifold and bung a holley/weber 2bl carb onto it. 

We just found as the fuel system "de-gummed" itself the quality of the fuel degraded (obviously ) and could cause other issues.

So running a better fuel assisted this.

Also by just running 98 for 2 or 3 tanks every few months can have a similar effect as injector cleaner (once the fuel system is cleaned up)

** by no means is injector cleaner a substitute for actual cleaning and testing of injectors.

Also i advisea fuel filter swap. Usually after the cleaner or any crap in the tank will just dislodge and gunk up the new filter.

If you're pedantic you could do a new filter drop in the cleaner and then replace it again after.

Some people believe that the cleaner can dislodge crap from a semi blocked filter and allow it to find its way to injectors etc.  ?

Nulon or valvoline injector cleaner is always in cupboard at work.

So one of those 2. throw it in with 98 octane fuel.

As said above spray some start ya bastard or such around the intake to head gasket area and listen for changes in engine conditions  (may stall even if bad)

I cant recall exactly but didn't these have a bad issue with air flow sensors etc??

Get real dirty etc and tun like a bag of cats? 

Hahaha yes the dizzy location is a nice touch lol.

Just be lucky its not a dick Johnson special with a turbo hanging off the side ...

Cant see or reach squat thanks to the intake pipes etc.

From memory the dizzy is right under the intake and not the easiest to reach.

So is the coil. So they're two things that are rarely touched.

Have you tried some injector cleaner through it? Can sometimes help. Especially with good quality fuel like 98 octane for a few tanks.

Think they also had issues with air flow sensor from memory and coolant temp sensors.

Been a while since i played with one.