8ball

Sensor for what?

The vn th700 is hydraulic.

Only wiring they have is for the lockup clutch solenoid. And thats easy to wire up a loom to operate.

You will need a trans cooler. And linkage setup for the throttle pressure cable and a shifter (cable shifter will give you the flexibility for position you need)- b&m, hurst, lokar etc.

Thee weight won't be the issue.

Its the fact it has the aerodynamics of a brick.

To get moving you need ratio and hp. Lacking hp (read stock 202) you need ratio.

So low diff ratio (3.7-4.11 etc) issue then is high rpm at 100kph.

How do you comprise?

You dont. You go overdrive.

Its why we fitted a th700 4spd auto. Has a lower 1st gear than the 3spd auto and it also has overdrive and a lockup clutch. Which helps heaps.

If you're gonna stay manual then a vh/vk 5spd or celica/supra 5spd manual would be the go.

We went auto as it was easier to set  up for shifter etc. And anyone can drive an auto. Plus holiday laziness.

Converts from Liquid to gas.

According to transom you guys may call it a vaporizer.?

Have to talk to his gas man if legal.

But tank has 2 outlets.

The other advantage he has is the fill cost for cooking etc.

Its about $20-35 for a 8.5/9kg gas bottle  refill here. Thats probably about $2.50 worth how he has it setup.

Convertor is needed aswell. And some safety valves etc.

Lpg has to be certified every 10yrs here (australia) aswell as a plate attached to number plates.

I have no ideawhats required in NZ.

But could be worth a look as to whats involved. 

You tend to use more lpg than petrol in dual fuel systems. In straight gas they come back closer to par, if the engine is set up better eg comp, spark, cam etc.

But gas here is usually about 40c a litre cheaper than petrol so you still tend to come out cheaper running gas than petrol even in duel fuel setups.

Considered goin straight lp gas? 

Helped a mate set up an old bedford motor home running a holden 6.

Ripped out the rusty fuel tank and a heap of other crap. Fitted 3 lp gas tanks 2 linked permanently to give about 160L and a 3rd as a "reserve/emergency  tank" this is isolated via a solenoid.  But this 3rd tank is mainly used for the cooktop and hotwater etc. 

We fitted an impco 425 mixer on an old cain 4bl manifold.

Bumped the compression ratio up using a 161 head. and fitted some chev rockers to "increase cam effect" (engine was a full budget job).

We dumped the trimatic auto and fitted a vn v6 4spd auto. 

As cunty as it may sound for me to say. 

But if you know you have a bad diff bearing that is rather noisy and may stop a sale (well it did) maybe you should try and fix it? Few $$$ now could be $$$$$ later in your pocket.

Selling an old car (any car really) you will get assholes that will pick one thing wrong and then harp on it that the car is going to self destruct on them if they buy it. The less issues they can grasp at the easier the sale.

Good luck mate its a pretty clean esky. But as said above sell the engine seperate.

Been tempted to try one on a project.

Have one in shed. Just surrounded by an ea i need to remove from it 1st lol

That an ea cpi?

You wanna go see some of the guys in Malta for a new pinto combo.

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/wv3mb46/

What a cunt.

Is your shifter loose/sloppy? 

Does your speedo work at all?

Did some digging.

My manual is useless for part numbers etc.

It just shows how to disassemble and what tools to use and specs.

All it says about speedo gear is.

Check number of teeth on gear and align the speedo adapter housing to the correct notch at the 6oclock position.

As for different drive gears ot seems the actual output shaft is the drive gear. So just different driven gears. But once again no mention of what they are.

Sorry 

Been a long while since i played with one of those.

But your main issue is going to be.

- what diff ratio have you got? This will determine what gear/s are needed from factory. Then its just if tyre diameter is different from factory to how close it will be.

There's several different drive gears and driven gears from factory. From memory. 

I may have an old manual out in the shed. But will need to know what diff ya got.

3 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Im pretty sure the 1159 and 1256 share the same starter?.....

Unless nz are different  they are the same.

Just auto v manual are different i think.

Pretty sure you can still get them new in the uk. And for reasonable price inc freight.

Mate got one for not much more than local wreckers etc wanted for an old crusty one.

As above.

Watch a youtube vid or 2 on welding a car panel rust patch etc.

Perhaps to much amperage on the welder aswell?

A Rokon trailbreaker would be cool.

Giant oversized novelty Acme slingshot for maximum LOL's

Catapult 

They do these for all makes.

They work well too.

http://www.getfast1.com/Roadmaster-Active-Suspension-Ford-Truck-Van-Load-Leveler-Leaf-Spring-Assist_p_2395.html

Each to their own.

But no. Not always you can drive away.

Years ago on a trip we got caught up in huge bushfires. Exits sealed etc. Had no idea where to go what to do etc. Stuck at camp site we managed to get the local news on the tv. It showed aerial shots of everything and talked about where it was and where the emergency evac points were. From that we made our way out of trouble.

So the tv actually saved our ass.

Yep tv's are crap when you're out touring and the weather is fucked outside and you're stuck in the van. .....

If you're building this as a camper van, grab a small tv. 

Over here we have them about 21" or so with built in dvd player etc and have usb port aswell as hdmi. They run off a dc transformer pack. From 240v ac - 12vdc.

Dump the pack in a box and run the tv off the vans 12v system.

Then throw a 1Tb hard drive in there full of movies, tv shows etc and you're set.

Fridge slide aswell.