8ball

Yeah shes a bit of a beast.

The th700 auto conversion was pricey but well worth it. The overdrive and lockup clutch really drop the rpm and with the dana diff (cant recall ratio?) And light truck tyres it sits just right in the torque zone rpm. So it doesn't labour by over gearing and its not under geared and revving its (. )( .)'s off.

Not that it really revs anyway. Think 4,800 is about it? Cant remember don't really need to rev it lol.

I really wanted a duel cab f350 with beaver tail. But unfortunately that was a no go. As the legal tray length was too short. Think its 60% of wheel base for max overhang past back axle. And with a duel cab id need about 80-85%.

Its a bit of a guzzler. Being such a big engine and truck. I also have a heavy foot.

Think last time i got 19L per 100km. But was hot as hell so ac was going flat out and the heat tends to screw with tank pressures which affects things

If you're gonna be moving a car aaround town or country often dont bother towing.

Get an old f350 LWB or chev C30 LWB throw a beaver tail (banana back or what ever you want to call it) and away ya go. No trailer sway.

Mines a '85 LWB f350 on straight lpg 460ci and has a th700 auto for easy cruising.

Has air cond power steer and iv setup for either bench seat or rip it out and chuck 2 xr6 bucket seats in with a waeco fridge between them.

Also got an 80ch cb for the highway and all the trucks

Doesn't eeven know it has a car on the back. And overtaking is a breeze. (So is speeding so watch the right boot lol)

Ok prob too new and not really what you want.

Got an '08 territory ghia rwd. I fitted a turbo to it and an exhaust. And did my best to restrain myself with tune (220rwkw) power to boot and and doesn't chew that much fuel.

Next bottle of champagne you here get popped nab the cork.

The postpak type tubes have useful plastic ends (Obviously depending on size)

Rubberbands and plastic bags or even glad wrap are good in some areas.

100 mile hour tape.

When new radiators or master cylinders/clutch cylinders etc etc are purchased there are plastic plugs in places. Carefully remove them without wrecking them clean them up and store in a box for future use.

Even some of the packaging from stuff you buy that's normally thrown out can sometimes have usefull pieces.

When i had my house air cond installed the guys left all the rubbish for me to dispose. I found heaps of useful clips and plugs.

Just keep ya eyes peeled.

Over all the years of playing with cars/engines etc ive accumulated a vast selection of bolts, plugs/caps, water pumps, oil pumps and old spark plugs etc i use to block up holes. (Mainly holden 6 an v8, ford v8 etc)

What i cant cover that way i use 3m masking tape.

And waging your tools on drags for fuel money.....

Hahaha

Surprised no one has scouted - " Running on Empty" for their cars.

Is there no port near the mounting flange?

There's usually a small pipe around the throttle butterfly near carby "base" where it bolts to the manifold.

So glad you got rid of the fast and the furious lookin seats.

Did not suit the mini at all.

The new seats look heaps better.

Although can access to the rear still happen?

Reliably for more than a minute then.

Day to day driving. Lol

If you know what you're doing (welding etc to make a manifold) then 4-6psi would be enough to wake the old mini up.

May not sound like much but in a small car that weighs about 7-800kg with driver and you ass only 4or5 inches off the ground you dont need much to get it to boogy.

Say it weighs 750kg with you in it.

All you need is just over 100hp at wheels and you're doing 13's

In a car that size you'll have brown undies in no time.

Then my old car should of had a rebuild 5.5years ago lol

If turbos weren't reliable then there'd be no such thing as a "factory turbo" such as wrx or xr6 or skyline etc etc.

Just because someones says turbo it doesn't mean you need 25+psi boost.

Yeah start with a good insurance of the block of wood under the go pedal.

Lmfao.

Or if ya good with a hacksaw files and drill and a welder etc perhaps fab up a small supercharger or turbo for something different. . Lol

But yeah before going crazy on an engine id be looking for the biggest capacity engine available for that model.

1275cc or so. And go from there.

Oh you've never driven a 70hp.

Hmmmm

May i suggest a defensive driving course to prepare yourself.

Just so you're ready for that insane surge of power.

Best to be safe than sorry....

You could always fit a poxy roof rack setup for ya jerry cans.

But that could interfere with carports, drivethrus etc...

And would probably cause more wind drag and increase fuel consumption. ..

Look around some wreckers or online (what ever your cheap goods page is there, gumtree here..)

Find some used drawers from a 4wd and fit in the back.

all ya small stuff goes in the drawers. And mowers on top.

Make up a folding ramp setup that once you

Open tailgate you just fold it down and roll the mower up and in. Saves ya back.

Then grab a second hand cargo barrier from a wagon or van etc and fit it in to stop mowers etc from entering the seating area.

And id definitely be getting the jerry cans out of the cabin.... the fumes will be a c@#t.

Not to mention over here most cops would grill you on the spot for having them in the cabin.

?? Dunno hard to tell from a pic.

Seen a few blocks that look fine until hot and a tiny pinhole opens up and sucks the cooling system dry.

Did you have the block sonic tested or crack tested??

1st thing i would have done.

Nah not a big block.

Its a 1159.

Seems to run fine no flat spots anywhere ive found.

Had it on 2 cars.

1st was an Auto

2nd was manual.

Made a HUGE difference on the auto. Much better to drive. And the auto was originally a 70hp.

The manual car was just the plain jane pov pak 1159cc.

Still made a huge difference on it tho.

Had a run with my other manual car which is a factory 70hp with a few minor tweaks.

Was side by side the whole way until about 4th gear and the pov pak began to pull away.

Never got around to trying out the 2brl on a 70hp manual as yet.

Still want to try one of my Brabham manifold setups on one aswell.

Before i fit the big block lol

Datto 1200 carb works perfect.

Been running one for years..

I just made an adapter from some alloy block and bolted it to a standard down draft manifold that i massaged abit with a dremel.

Biggest issue being the standard is linkage throttle and the datto being cable.

But im sure you can sort that out.

May be a pinhole through the bore to water jacket?

I once had a pos galant that had a 'rebuilt' engine. They sold it after rebuilt it because they couldn't get it to run.

It would occasionally start run a bit (if ya gave it some revs) then would cut out and just about die then BOOM! A massive backfire.

Ended up being a dizzy wire shorting out on block.

So i threw new rings in it (again as they were broken) and it ran fine for about a year.

What im saying for yours is new rings may be fine again? But the mark in bore says otherwise...

They could have also gotten ring gap wrong?

Go the rechargeable led all day long. So over the old "lead lights"

- cords get caught on everything.

- the transformer boxers get dropped, crushed etc

Cordless are best under a hoist.

(Just remember to charge it tho lol)

Deleted outer bolsters to make access to tiny cabin easier

Could be a number of things.

Resistance is an electrical systems nightmare.

(To a point ) you want the biggest wiring you can get to reduce resitance and voltage drop.

Not sure what standard insulated cable is? Go to a parts shop and get some. Any decent shop should stock it on a roll and can be bought by the meter.

Or they also sell pre-terminated cables too.

If not get power/earth cables from a car audio shop..

The reason the cable is getting hot could be.

- dead/dying starter motor

- poor earths

- poor battery voltage/current

- solenoid issue

- crap wire conditions

Good luck.