Bangbug

Shock relocation.

Had a look at the regs:
(a) be fitted with shock absorbers which are able to satisfactorily control spring energy; and

( where a substantial increase in spring rate occurs, be reinforced as necessary in the areas of the body or chassis or sub-frame structure on which the increased loads being transmitted are likely to cause fracturing or failure.

(a) a shock absorber of a compatible stroke length

I see they sell brackets for relocation so it must be done so I guess it's down to the certifier being satisfied the geometry is good and they're strong/suitable enough?

Currently IRS, diagonal trailing arm, coil spring, subframe mounted to body forward of each wheel and off the rear diff housing.
The shock going through the coil, thinking of moving it to the back of the trailing arm and to the channel of the body.
More or less the angle of my ute setup.
Might have to draw a picture

Is doing upholstery as sexually satisfying as I imagine it to be?

Anywho, sprechen sie wheels

Throw the os VW logo at it

Also.
If you have all the vvti stuff, like a front cut, you'll have all you need for security.

This is why I'll be trying to make a "black box" solution when I get to mine

The factory ecu and tune is pretty good and controls the auto i'll still be running behind it

If it's a full stand alone ecu then yes, it "gets around" the security.

Is that into the sleeve n all?

Fuck me.

Anywho I'd say the head is saveable at least

Just had my head welded and skimmed and block decked for $190 + gst

Go see Dan at east city reconditioners, he's old school

Have a maf?

Check it out

Do you have karate laser eyes?

can you rotate the booster? aka move the vac line.

(pull shit, spin drum, attach shit, I think mine is like that)

Then if you still need room, you might even have room in the chamber to notch it.
Of course that means sealing it up perfect again

A smaller cylinder is your friend if you lack the spirit of karate

You could angle that trumpet as well.

3 and 4 don't breath in at the same time

The rubber won't be doing jack except acting as a spacer for your riv nuts so yeah, not really isolated
If you can have some rubber without the fixings going through you'll be in a better space
Needs to be able to move independently.
Lets save you some pingas!

I'll quite you unless you quieten down!

Mounting is most of the noise I find, how is it currently mounted?

Wheelchair accessible or blind friendly?

HighLUX may still have the repair manual PM him

Fucking spoilers EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Similar with my plenum and booster.

Luckily found a 323 which was smaller to do the job.

Brace the engine, 25mm is miles!

They're aluminium.

Aluminium is solid until a billionth of a second where it's soft then it's liquid. Hahaha. Feck!

Diesel pistons will be forged steel real soon just you wait

Awaiting decal instructions

E85 would be perfect!

I'll have a look at coatings.

This stage flattop and leave the rest, longevity would be nice, I think I could scrape 12psi out of the turbo and will probably just run two maps.

Regular 7psi map and fuck your flash car 12psi map.

Though I found out yesterday that a ford ranger is faster than a brand new lamborghini. Made the fucker move over he was sooooooo slow, poor car

Today's topic is brought to you by dirtpoordaddy.com and Dirty Freegan Mods Ltd.

Hello,

Not wanting to buy forged pistons as the arse has just dropped out of work I figure I would try and make do with what I have.

I have some domed 10:1 pistons and I'm going to use them in a turbo build. FE-DOHC.

Some measurements have left me with 5.18mm in the piston crown if I flat top these buggers (about 1.8mm off)

Having an engine builder owe me money is handy so I went to see him with my silly idea.

He reckons have at it.

"I've got oil squirters to help with cooling the piston" I offer.

"Block them off, they're just creating drag" and as I sit here I ask google Oil squirter which it starts to suggest:
delete
block off

plug

So I guess it's popular. But this ain't no race car scraping out 1/2 hp advantages so methinks I'll leave em alone, cooler piston sounds better than any other trade off.

And then.....

"Mill off these here piston skirts" he reckons.

"Won't that make it rattly at start up like a forged piston?" I respond.

"Yeah and what?" was his squinty eyed statement.

I suppose pistons pull a couple thousand g's.... but that seems excessive, I think he's getting excited and I'd like to see him do the math though some basic math would be 3000G x 9.8ms/s x 0.02g = 588W.
Non-linear accelleration etc etc would be some area under the curve type shit.... I digress.

Who's had a go at modifying pistons and how did it turn out?

Excellent write up

I have a friend who may be buying a transporter, this is some good info as he's a dedicated sort of bloke and while he'll bitch and moan, he'll go anywhere and get anything and help anyone.

I'd have the non integrated controller just based on gauge size and later wiring. both look fine to me!

...

I'm sure I'm not the only one with a chub.

Well done, excellent work!!

Sounds happy as!

Pull bulb

I find temp of the manifold is only relevant when hot starting or when sitting in traffic etc.

It's more 3rd on account of how fast you'll be going in 4th