MightyJoe

Sorry guys I haven't looked at the car tbh. I'm in the UK with my dad at the moment so injuatbleft it alone. I will put an update up as soon as I back and work out what it is. Cheers for everyones help so far. 

Take some pictures and speak to palmside in chch. Simon is pretty good with these he'll be able to tell you if it's able to be repaired

I don't think so. You can remove the rear plate and inspect the rotor but theres nowhere to manually make it work. Its just the drive gear into the cam

the oil pickup is pressed into the block. some early ones were threaded apparently. not mine. the machine shop removed it and i hammered it back  into place with some wood to stop the end getting damaged.  

there was some oil pressure there, as i removed the pressure switch completly and turned the engine over and there were a few pulses of oil, but they barely dribbled out of the block tbh, i'd expect it to be making a mess of the inner guard 

Na it's a plain jane single one. It's a direct replacement which takes the 'later' (ha) screw in type filters raher than the original cartridge type. 

So leave the pump on and just pump oil through the filter pipe? I was thinking it could be airlock and thats partly why I started it the second time and held the revs up a bit but they're not exactly sealed, they vent to atmosphere and the rocket cover was off too. ill try that though cheers. 

This is a tiny Welch plug?  If so then yes I did that myself. I also installed the grub scewws each end of the gallery. There is no oil escaping anywhere. I think I need to find a manual oil pressure gauge and hook it up. I would hope they checked everything tbh as I've never assembled a bottom end before I wanted it to be right hence why I got them to assemble the short block.  Oil pick up pipe is my only logical step I think. If there's nothing obviously wrong there I'll have to take the engine out and strip it back down I think. 

no i bought aftermarket ones, i couldn't find any crossflow ones and they would've needed machining to fit anyway. yeah i want to be able to use the cam so though i'd be pulling some silly revs. until the gearbox shits itself. anyway. its a 5 bolt crank .

 The machine shop came on a recommendation and weren't cheap but they do heaps of racecars and he knows his crossflows from the race circuits so i am confident in his work. i am going to drop the sump as soon as i can bear to look at it again and go from there i think. no load on the motor, it started pretty much off the bat and i held the revs for maybe 20 seconds,  no pressure so i turned it off, checked a few things, started it again for another 20 seconds, turned it off and have turned it over with no plugs in a couple of times. i used heaps of assembly lube and oiled all the bores etc well before i attempted to start it. 

i really cant be arsed to pull the motor again. really! but man. i should've just stuck a ca18 det in it and be done with the fucking thing. 

thanks for that info. 

Yeah its a 120 block. 6015 casting number. not an L block but its a 1967 mk2 with the mk1 running gear so shes a bit of an oddball. The engine was completely stripped to the last grub screw, everything was washed, acid tanked and assessed and replaced as necessary. the only original parts are the cast block, head and crank. everything else is brand new.  i paid the engineering company to assemble the short block but i installed the pickup pipes and sump and oil pump etc. i bought big end bearings and cam bearings on their specifications. it was also line bored to accept square main caps so i would assume the tolerances would be perfect.  i've checked and rechecked the oil pump mounting and i took it apart earlier and had a good look over it and as far as i can tell the oil pump is ok. i did replace the grub screw behind the engine mount at the time as well as the front and rear oil gallery ones behind the timing case. i took out the oil pressure switch earlier and turned it over a few times and oil did come out but it wasn't as much as i would've thought and yes, i understand what you say about the oil pressure switch but i have 2 of them and both are behaving the same, one off the original engine and one out of the box new. i think i'm going to have to drop the sump, check the pickup and return pipes are still seated properly and go from there. i honestly dont know what else to do though if it isn't that. 

i hope to hell  i havent done any serious damage. i can deal with a flat cam but cant afford to rebuild the motor again

no even checked in the manual earlier. theres only 4. 2 to alternator, 1 to temp sender and 1 to oil pressure.  the oil pressure is a spade connector and the water temp is a bullet. as well as the colour difference

 also i checked the switch manually earlier. earthed it to the battery and pushed a small scribe to activate it and it worked as it should. 

na spring and retainer there and moving as it should 

yeah brand new 'high pressure' pump from burton power.  

reckon i should check that cheers. 

na. just changed the filter. i primed it first and turned it over without plugs, light stayed on. 

i filled it with oil, and the filter and turned it round before installing. i've taken the pump off and the end plate off the pump also and its nice and lubed up .

i've read somewhere assembly lubricant can clog the filter. 

i've finally got around to getting my cortina started, everything is new. bearings, high pressure oil pump, cam, lifters, pistons, everything. got it fired up pretty easily and wanted to hold it at 2000 rpm to run the cam in but the oil pressure light wont go out. i've had 2 different senders in the hole, and tested them manually with a scribe pushed in the switch ( which made the light go out) . i left it out the hole and some oil does come out but it doesnt come out with as much force as i would've expected. 

i've turned the engine over a few times with the plugs out (for speed)  and the light still wont go out. i dont want to keep doing this as theres a chance i'll fuck the cam at the least, and at the most the whole engine. anyone had any experience with this? i took the pump off the check its not siezed and its all good, everything was primed before anyway. 

i'm using lucas run in high zinc oil SAE 30. 

its been run for about a minute maximum so far and im shit scared to even turn it over now, i cant afford to fuck this up and rebuild it again. i'm thinking i have to drop the sump and check the pickup pipe. i did this when first assembling but you can never be too sure. 

its a 1500 pre crossflow kent engine. 

Thanks very much. 

is there a legal limit to the amount of flexible fuel hose you can use? 

the old fuel line went from the mechanical fuel pump on the left rear of the engine straight over the rocker cover diagonally into the fuel regulator, then onto the carb. 

i want to run it rearwards out of the pump, right acorss the firewall then forwards along the passenger inner wing, cable tying it to the loom, then into the regulator. this would be about 1m of hose. 

its 5/16 proper fuel line, and as far away form any heat as i can get it. 

thanks. 

pink dots are the current routing, yellow is where i want it to go 

still going with this been chipping away at evenings and weekends. dash swap is mostly done, never, ever again. 

Dashboard nightmares. I had too much head scratching over the heater box and after all the fucking around rebuilding the XE one i cant use it. so i stuck the xf one back in and i'll work out the vacuum lines later. wiring is another headscratcher too. theres 2 dash's. one with a crappy 'econoguage' and one with s pack clocks. so i'm building 1 good one out of the two. got a fair way into it, just still not sure if i'm gonna splice the xe dash into the xf loom where the multiplug are or run as much of the xf loom as poss and just use the XE switches. any thoughts or suggestions on this?

also did a few other small jobs that aren't really of note but it all helps. put the fuel tank back in too. 

I placed it in first cos i needed a cheap victory. awe ensued. 

Stripped the loom out, this is the one i dont want but the dash itself is much nicer. 

how i left it. 

fuel tank in, i put the lid on too, shame theres all that wasted space underneath. 

that dash swap is a pain in the arse man. thats all i have to say. 

another month! shiiiiiiiiit. 

she's the most solid x series ute out there now thats a guarantee lol. for about 6 minutes until it starts to rust again. 

ah shit man! 3 weeks without an update and a solid month since i did the other sill! shit man that went fast   had a day away from it cos i was poked, a weekend off due to family birthdays and other obligations and now here we are. 99.99999% of the welding is done. thanks buggery for that. its all done i think, but you just never know. 

Same old same old. small hole, make a big hole, no hole! 

its a bit frankenstein in the inner wheel well but i couldn't be fucked, neither could stan, its about 3 differnt pieces and its solid. thats all i want. ill grind it back and etch prime it and just spray on some schutz. its not a show car. its a daily ute, i have to keep reminding myself of that. the lip for the arch and the body line aren't finished. 

So yeah, thats the other side done, now i think she's all solid. those sill panels make a bloody nice job of it i have to say, $160 each and they only require a little bit of tinkering. i'm stoked for once. we had the drivers door and guard on and off a dozen times too but no photos of that this time, no need. 

once i've ground all that back i know there'll be a few holes etc to touch in and then its onto the bog work and other mind numbing stuffs. 

chur for reading about a boring (not quite old enough) ford! 

So the 10,000,000 imports that have the edges folded in 6mm to make them fit the gap are all properly ilegal?  

Faaakin'ell 

started on the other side today. i'm actually fed up now of finding more rust. i know its a ford but christ the way these are put together is nuts. the double skins, dirt and water traps,, and different channels and areas between panels that make no sense. anyway i'm just fed up of not being able to get to the part i want to fix in the first place yet! lol. i'm not going to work on it tomorrow i'm going up to hopefully remove an lsd rear disk axle. we shall see how that pans out. 

i made this side! came out well. 

proof we did this bit too! 

and with the front end welding finished i was able to give it a quick tidy up, etch prime any bare metal and then put stonechip on. 

it wont happen yet but i think i'm ready to fit the wings and align them for paint. progress! 

potato spec pics today sorry. til next week....

i saw this today cruising the morning rush hour. Pontiac parisienne.