Kimjon

Had a weird situation. I brought 90° fittings for my oil tank, which is normal. But there's not enough space between them to be able to screw them in??

So I had to adapt some fittings to work:

This should do the trick.

I had to weld a nut to this stud, to extract it like a bad tooth!!

Long story, but the engine steady (mount) can't go over 2 studs in a V formation. So I've replaced with 2 cap head bolts.

Unobtainable bolts (technically a screw, as the thread goes full length) ...no choice but to make them:

And all set in place with keeper nut

Then I looked at the oil tank. Brand new item...removed caps...full of rust, metal filings, all sorts of crap and corruption inside the tank.

I did 5x rinse outs with petrol. Used about 10L of it. I figure $20 of gas is cheaper than 5K on replacing fucked motor.

Here's some of the shit that came out.

Harleys have a gravity fed oil system. The filter is on the return line as this is under pressure. The fed line is unfiltered, no oil pressure until the pump.

So if I started with shit in the oil reservoir it would go through the motor first!!

Life goals - do a little bit everyday if possible during lockdown.

And

Pretty happy with that. Ticks a box for cert.

More shit done. This remote oil filter has been a total pain in the arse the entire way through this build. Ive never found a great place to put it, plus each time I do, it ends up in the way of something else later on.

So I think I've found a new home for it:

Brackets getting made

Welded

Boom!! In position, nicely hidden behind transmission.

It unscrews with room to clear the belt, frame, transmission and fender. Any oil should fall straight down (into a waiting catch pan) with nothing in its way. So I think this may be the best place I've tried to date?

Then drilled a 4.5mm hole into my headlight and put a small but very bright LED light in there, just below the high beam indicator light.

The oil pressure switch is wired up to this LED. so if oil pressure is low it will light up the LED.

The positive lead goes to the light filament (center contact). The ground portion of the light bulb goes to the switch (oil pressure sending unit). The switch is normally closed. Turn ignition on and the "OIL" light comes on. Start engine and the oil pressure "opens" the circuit, making the light go off.

Added an oil pressure switch 

Long story short, speedo driver unit for mechanical drive, adapted to fit a late model wheel that doesn't have mechanical driven speedo.

Problem was this gap. The older shovelhead wheels have the bearing recessed in an inch, so that tab connects.

Also they are mounted on the RH side. Mines on the left.

Problems!!

Starting to take shape.

I cut that plate from 4mm thick steel. I'll weld it under the transmission. It will hold a few items, fuses, relays harness etc. Hopefully mostly out of sight.

Each branch of the loom goes to a different part of the bike. The deutsch connectors are huge and fucking ugly, so these will be hidden under the bike too.

On 26/08/2021 at 11:37, shizzl said:

Not a bad grocery getter.. 

I had to wait a while for the boner to die down before entering the supermarket 

He's not that hot?

Looking good. Love the v twin!!

All sorted today. Every function is working as it should, all the gremlins fixed. So satisfied with outcome.

Next I'll bundle up the looms and heat shrink them into logical groups. Then snip them off, rejoining back together with deutsch connectors.

Spaghetti junction??

But its a big step forward for me.

As much as I wanted this job to magically solve its own problem...I had to take control of my fears and get stuck into it. Nothing like a lockdown to motivate you to escape the madhouse and hide in the shed.

https://www.bikeexif.com/build-cafe-racer

Check out racer TV on YouTube. He's put a lifetime of energy into the content on there. Once you get used to the computer translation robot voice, its full of great content.

Yeah man, that bike is sweet!! In an ideal world the rear seat would end inline with the axle...but meh...looks good.

Dent be gone(ish)...

Bit of love from a hammer and dolly.

Electrics all tested and working. It cranks over (no gas). So a few things to do like replacing fuel lines etc and it should fire up fingers crossed?

Just mucking around in the shed on that new vespa.

Its one owner. He purchased it new in the UK, then brought it with him to nz. Ive got all the uk and nz importation paperwork. It failed getting registered in nz because of some rust in the bottom of the leg shield.

I just had a play with it, swapped a new battery into it and all the lights, indicators, horn work etc. I then turned it over with no fuel in the tank and that worked too. So looks like its worth putting some time into it.

23 hours ago, jessemk2 said:

Motor for crf?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/3198270309

Honda 2 strokes been selling for a premium 

Yeah been looking at that for months now. He's listed it about 5 or 6 times. 

Unfortunately the drive is on the wrong side. Not impossible to get around by flipping rear wheel and making a slide for the rear brake etc. But add radiators etc  etc and you'd be 1K deep. Starts getting  uneconomical to the point you can pick one up for $2500-$3500 all good to go. Though it would be cool.

Actually working really well.