Kimjon

But God clearly hates gokarts and throws yet another curse my way, the offsets are fucking wrong...balls, arse, cunt, boobies!!!!!

Oh well, back into the scrap bin to search for treasure in order to find a solution to fix my last solution:

Sproket time. Nothing is easy, to get the right pitch chain, the sprocket won't fit the axle.

So solution:

Everything is looking rough as guts, and well it is. But eventually I'll flap disc it all back to pretty.

I made the fake oil tank in order to house a battery for the coils (I have to externally bypass the magneto).

Initially I thought undoing 4 bolts to swap would be fine, but it's a total pain in the arse! 

Solution:

Heaps of clearance, tried it over and over again to find best position. I found that if kept tight close to steering shaft it has very little movement. The twist wire acts like an old telephone cable (showing my age).

Worked really well, and I'll definitely use it again in the future.

For the wiring I've always wanted to try this technique...so I did;

Got a few more things done.

Paint

And wiring

Just found this on YouTube

Three things stood out to me.

1) its probably New Zealand?

2) it smokes more than he does

3) holly fuck...it's scary fast for a pedal car with a mini quad engine!!!

So, looks like it should work if I stick to the plan and just pass on your advice (commit).:-)

9 hours ago, a.craw4d said:

Nice power plant choice

One thing I've found with these is they need full right foot to get moving. Once up to speed however they have a little power on hand. Good to start on flat hard ground then hit the rough stuff with full commitment.

Would you recommend one of those reduction gearboxes to overcome this? Top speed isn't really a priority right now

And finally for the "Go" pedal, an adjustable stop to limit travel, and a cable anchor.

This should do the trick!

So, I had to grind down one end of a long bicycle cable to a very small size in order to fit the carburetor slide. The other end needs a solution like this:

Now if I'm been honest, this is the MK2 model as the first was a soft M8 bolt which fell apart when I started to tighten it. The above is a M10 grade 8 bolt, which hopefully works.

Crank up your voltage control to get more heat looks like not enough heat. Best to set this on some scrap. Then stich weld in small pulse type passes, around the perimeter until done.

For the cheap helmet, I run  electrical tape around that lens you removed to clean. This really helps keep the sooty stuff out. If you ever need to clean, just do it and replace the tape later.

And done.

Switches encourage you to play with things, even though you know you shouldn't...What kid doesn't want a switch?

A quick sand blast, as contrast rules on anything.

I've never been smart enough to find simple solutions...so into the "complicater" went an easy question about how to stop the motor, and 20 minutes later out came this:



Nearly there.

Got to get rear sprocket and figure out the exhaust. Maybe another week or two until parts arrive.

All welded up now. 

Got to wait for a rear sprocket and a couple other low dollar items like some fuel line a throttle cable. Then I'll weld it solid and it should be all go with 50cc of 2-stroke awesomeness!!!

So a proud day arrived, my 8 year old daughter asked if a motor could be put on the trolley..."hell yeah!"

So:

Hey, have you seen this? Similar - but different...but pretty dam cool!

Just watched all of them, as I'm totally crippled by man flu right now.

Not a lot going on with this lately. Toying with this idea for a choke lever

And made this little fitting out of 4140 to hold the cvt to the motor.

It has an 8mm hole, with allows me to use a long UNF bolt to pick up on the crank. The key way takes the torque, this just stops it going west!

That came up well, what did you use?