Kimjon

What sort of $? I still haven't picked up this scooter. Paid for it, but then got locked down and lifes got busy again.

Never one to waste an opportunity. The concrete I cut up and removed from my shed floor. I've just laid it out for a quick visual and it looks roughly about right. Next I'll remove it, level out a flat base with sand. Lay the concrete back in, then fill it flush with the driveway and tops of the concrete bits using gravel. Something like this ^ This should give me am area to park my hilux or maybe a large tandem trailer in the future if I actually buy one etc...hell, if I get old enough maybe even a camper van?

I'm a slow learner...short answer is nope.

I didn't ride this goped for ages after crashing it so badly, but eventually I forgave it and showed it some love. Approximately 4 weeks after that crash my arm still hurt like fuck! It felt like electric shocks everytime I twisted it (like when using a screwdriver)...so I had it x-rayed and found out it was broken. Yip, 4 weeks trying to carry on as nothing was wrong with a broken arm...equals dick!!! Anyways, I noticed as the motor got hotter it would lose power. It wasn't enough to stop riding it, but it bugged me that it was brutally fast when cold - but not as good when hot. So I teared down the motor for a look. Nothing obvious unfortunately. I was hoping to see a witness mark around the head gasket (I don't actually use a head gasket, just some RTV) but nothing. Convinced that the problem was still this area I put a proper gasket in there and removed a shim to balance out my squish band to get the same squish...but move the timing up a fraction. It did the same thing, started strong...finished poorly. But this time I found my leak. The lower cases. Finally i could see a tiny misty area of fuel/air mix coming out of a small gap in the lower cases. Mystery solved...yay!!!!!!!! Parts on order now, will fix it when i get them. This is exciting stuff, as it's already fast, but will only be better for it once that leak is plugged.

Got sick of no kick stand, so made this for it. It flicks back by itself when not in use. I'll give it a quick tidy up and call it done.

Here's my switch board. Is it pretty simple to connect a 3 phase outlet from here? I won't be doing the work obviously...but just after a reality check on feasibility?

Thank you, really appreciate the reply.

That's all good, I'd rather hear it how it is. Thanks

Yeah, makes sense. Good to think out loud sometimes and see what comes back. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I'm pretty quick to point out that I'm out of my depth knowledge wise here? As in clueless. Our house has 3 phases coming into the meter box (we live rural). Apparently 1 phase runs directly to our water heater. The other 2 phases split around the house circuits. The electrician put a 3 phase cable from the meter box to our shed, and connected 2 of the house phases up, but not the water heater one. Well that's my recollection of what happened? I am keen on the idea of 3 phase power, even if it's just one outlet that I run an extension cable to, as and when required. But thought if I could just adapt a 2.2kw single phase motor off a water pump or something then that could be a cheap win?

I'm interested in this. I've seen something on trademe along these lines, but I'm an electrical retard. I have a 3 phase cable running to my shed, but the sparky just took two of the phases and ran a circuit each way off a phase each. So I don't have 3 phase power, just 2 single phases, and a dead wire. Is it very expensive to get these phases wired up to an outlet for proper 3 phase?

This is a 3 phase motor, obviously...as that's what the tag says. My very basic knowledgeable of electric stuff is an equation I recall from school: P = V.I Now what's preventing me from losing this motor and substituting it for an equivalent 2.2kw power single phase alternative? If P = V.I 2.2kw = 240v x I I = 2.2x1000w ÷ 240v I = 9.17Amps Seams like not ridiculous amount of amps to draw? Is this possible? As simple as finding a 2.2kw single phase motor and adapting it to fit my application? Or is there a cheaper alternative to all the above? Ideas, thoughts, experiences please...????

By fucking it up the first 2 times. It's not that hard, I used a bicycle cable and ran the route I wanted it to go, then measured required length off that. The hard part was the fittings. Pays to measure everything as the hand control may be different to the caliper, as too the foot reservoir to the rear caliper...they can all be completely different. The other problem is the angles the end fittings are bent at. They have tight radius and won't clear fuck all. I tried to do this with a 90° bend, but the radius was too tight and it wouldn't reach the hole (insert joke). So I had to do it with a 45° bend and add extra length to the line. My advice would be to take it to a brake place if you can, as it's cheaper to get it right first time, rather than fuck up multiple times like I did. Or if you're doing it yourself really check those banjo sizes, angles, rotations etc... and don't aim for hero tolerance on the lines...add a bit of fat in there.

Hel brake lines arrived today. This is take 3 on the brake lines. All fits well, but I did have to bend the banjo a couple mm in the vice and rotate the fitting 90°. Hel have rotation as a selling point, but fuck me it took some force to do this.

I've added a clamp fitting up near the timing cover too, and will weld actual to the frame there to further support the exhaust. That should do the trick. I've made all the bits, but don't want to weld it with the current problems I'm having with my welder.

Did a little tweak to my exhaust bracket by adding another support. This should brace it so it doesn't fatigue. My welder was playing up and feeding erratically, but got there in the end.

My mig welder has been misbehaving lately. I figured out the issue and did this fix. Bolt head is pulling out of the base, cheap shit plastic! Luckily I have a tig, so was able to weld this bolt to a bit of metal I turned up on the lathe. It's done the trick, but it's still being a bitch and acting up. The 0.6mm wire just doesn't seem to work in this welder. Weird, as I used to run it without issues. Maybe cheap brand? Anyways once lockdown is down I'll go back to 0.8mm.

He just puts the files in his fireplace (wood burner) and leaves them there for a few weeks while warming his feet watching Netflix. This apparently heat cycles the steel and makes it go soft. He said it adds carbon too, but I'm not sure about that...sounds a bit weird? Anyway, the soft metal is easily worked and shaped. Once he's happy with the shape and it's all polished up, it then gets heat treated in the furnace. The furnace causes a little distortion and ruins the finish, but it doesn't take much effort to make it look good again afterwards. If you don't polish the blade prior to heat treatment, then it's a huge amount of work to get the scratches out because you're working with steel that is now back to the hardness of a file!

I'm no expert, just googled a few things and gave it a crack. The steel is an old saw blade that kitchen builders use for cutting stone with. They're about 400mm in diameter and about 2mm thick. I got a couple for free, as the blades were flogged out. I use a 40 grit flap wheel to slim the thickness down, then work through the grades to polish it up, eventually using a buffing wheel to polish. I do this process very carefully to avoid heating up the metal and ruining the steels heat treatment. The blow touch is to soften the handle steel. Two reasons for this: 1) So I can drill the hardened steel, without this spot heating the drill wouldn't cut through. 2) knives should have a softer tang/handle, as hardened steel is brittle and the handle junction is the highest stress point, so if it was left brittle it would snap. The vice acts as a heat sink and keeps the heat out of the blade. That's about all I can offer. My brother has a furnace and makes knives from files. But he does full on heat treatments etc. I try to avoid all this and just make basic stuff.

And finished: Then I sandblasted the handle for contrast and texture, and polished an edge on it sharp enough to cut you just looking at it! Posers photos below: I'm happy with it. Something unlike most knives people make at home, which was the goal.

It's certainly a possibility, but I really don't want the drama associated with warping the mating surfaces. That would create a real issue that I can't afford to have. The hardest part of making those other brackets was coming up with the measurements and figuring out what it needed to do in the first place. Building them all over again will be relatively easy the 2nd time around, once I can get hold of some steel.

Made a start on this, then decided that drinking piss and talking shit across the fence with my neighbours was more important than working on this. Will finish when less drunk.

Balls!!!! Okay, looks like to be safe the 1/4" isn't the best idea, so better to go with a full 1/2" offset spacer for clearance. This is with the 1/4" spacer in. It clears the gearbox mount...but only just! If the belt slops around, as they do when you go WOT then suddenly back off...there is a chance of the belt whipping and hitting that mount. It may never happen, but may as well do it right. I could cut the mount, but I'd rather not fuck with that, as the motor and gearbox are sitting perfect right now, all fully aligned and flat on the same plain. But, as you all know. The moment you shift something, it creates flow ons. I now need to remake this fender strut. Double balls, as it cost me $50 to get this one chromed and it looked fucking good too! And This entire mounting system of holding the rear fender, oil tank and remote oil filter has to be remade too. It would work with 1/4", but not with the 1/2" offset. So this minor oversight is a bit of a cunt, as its created a lot of work.

Was on a teleconference for 4.5hrs about health and safety today. I tried to fake attention for as long as I could. I lasted about 2 hours, then glazed over...far out...could have summed it up and just said "right you cunts, don't do anything dumb" and that would've just about covered it. Anyway, while this enthralling conference was going on I noticed something for the first time, a potential health and safety problem of my own, but not a bullshit hypothetical one, an actual real world problem. Yip, my belt could contact this gearbox mount. Fuck!!! (Warning 1:41 of your life you'll never get back if you watch this) So using what limited materials I have, I made this up. Hopefully its thick enough to space the pulley off the hub a sufficient amount? My entire bike is offset by 1/2", so I'm thinking a 1/4" spacer may not add up. It looks like it's going to work...but after that teleconference and an hour on the lathe all I can think about us getting fucked up so I don't have to think about today. Beer o'clock is well and truly calling. Fitting this can wait until tomorrow.