Kimjon

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Everything posted by Kimjon

  1. The brass plate is an original feature left behind from the cars illustrious past. It was a government owned vehicle, used as a dignitarys car. They were manufactured in Canada, exported to New Zealand as parts, and assembled in either Thames or Wellington. Well that's what I've been told by an enthusiast. The factory righthand drive was a huge appeal to me. Left hook is okay, but righthand drive is just so much better.
  2. This is what was floating around the valley of my motor: The 3x little chunks were lose inside the valley under the inlet manifold. The larger "seal" was just flopping around on top, in the hole pictured in the above post. No wonder it was leaking oil eh! This part will replace all that shittyness. Its held down by a through bolt (this isn't the bolt I'll actually use, so stand down internet warriors). There's already a threaded hole for it in the block, left from the origonal down draft tube that's supposed to be there...very convenient, so that's what it will bolt down on and then the o-ring creates the seal.
  3. Just brought this. Did a bit of Google searching and it looks like it's going to do the job. I'll install my machined fitting into this hole, by the distributor. There was a "down draft tube" here on the original motor, basically the predecessor to a PCV system. It was a simple tube that runs back and exits out by the transmission to atmosphere (aka dumps oil on the road, drive, shed floor). As you drive air rushing past creates a venturi effect and sucks out blow by gases and any oil mist. My motor had the down draft tube cut and bent around for clearance purposes on the firewall. The seal has fallen to bits and it wasn't connected to anything, so blow by was exiting here and causing an annoying oil drip. The catch can will collect and separate the oil, and vent the gasses.
  4. Machining. More machining.. WTF??? You crazy cunt, it's in sideways!!! Oh, not so crazy after all. Pretty... Mmmmm PCV valve goodness. Just going my part for the environment (like I'd really lose sleep over fake news like man made climate change). I'm just sick of it leaking oil on my shed floor. Just gotta hook up a catch can or route it into my intake vaccum to get rid of my crankcase vapour and problem solved.
  5. Nowhere near enough to even remotely trouble it. They're 1340cc capacity and an unimpressive 70hp stock. The low hp figure is because they only rev about the same as a small block chevy, so say around 5700rpm if it was screaming Vs sportbike 18000rpm. My motor has been freshly rebuild with an Andrew's camshaft and all new parts etc...it will put out a little more than that, but it's no hayabusa for sure.
  6. This is a job I've been putting off for a longtime. The pulleys didn't align correctly. Theres a 4.8mm difference between front and rear. Hmmm...yadda, yadda, yadda...something about using shims and a stator washer...yadda, yadda, yadda...blah, blah, blah. Instructions weren't a lot of use. What fucking shims? What fucking washers other than those already normally used on the motor??? Certainly would be helpful if they supplied these parts if you need them to make their kit work, one would think? But alas nothing like that came with it. However, as I've mentioned before; no problems just solutions... And test fitting after much time spent machining this up... Fuck yeah, like a glove!
  7. Okay, some days I actually struggle to take myself seriously. All of the above justification was complete bullshit...of course it not been centred annoyed me. I was totally lying to myself, in the same way a teenage girl heading away to university says to her boyfriend that she wants an open relationship and be able to date other guys - but everything is going to work out fine between us. Or your wife tells you that her Google search history of huge black Congolese cock is because she has an interest in anthropology. Anyways I digress. OCD is strong in me, and it just didn't sit well...literally! So fuck it, I faced up to myself and made it again, but different. Marking out. Finished bracket, sandblasted to match motor cases. Sitting in the center of frame. View from afar. Looks more in balance now, with it centre of frame tubes. Much happier now, I can actually look at myself in the mirror and finally take myself seriously again...thew!
  8. My OCD kicked in and I was about to make another bracket. But then looking at how the motor sits in the frame from above, it's not like that's centred. It also looks like a lot of free space on the bikes RHS however there are brake and clutch lines yet to go in there...so maybe that space might come in handy. So talked myself into leaving it for now.
  9. Regulators, bit of a headache. I have a 23amp stator and a 32 amp rotor. I brought a 32 amp regulator...but the pins are wrong size. So I brought another one in 23amp...which fits. My understanding (elec-trickery isn't strong point), is that the rotor is just a magnet and isn't going to affect the stator adversely and cause it to make more power. Plus if the demand is low, the system wont be making anywhere near 23amps anyways? So assuming thus to be true, I'm pushing onwards... 32amp, wrong pin size. Making bracket for 23amp regulator. I put a hook in the bracket for wiring to clear. And all done. I'll give it some saturation time for it to grow on me. I hate that it's not centred...however neither is the crankcase of this motor. In fact the entire motor is way off centre...so maybe it really doesn't matter? I can offset the bracket to force it to the centre if it really does fuck me off, but for now I'm not sure how much of an issue it is. Put it this way, I'm not in love with it...but I don't hate it either.
  10. Jiffy-stand or kickstand; depends on what school you went too? Call it whatever you want...it doesn't change the fact they are an essential item on a bike. Now, the shitty thing is that Harley never made it to work on my one off custom bike I've made, that they don't know exists. Further more the shellfish engineers at Harley never designed their bikes with open primary drives like I've added to mine. So using factory Harley parts on a non factory bike "just ain't gonna work!" No surprises there. A look on Google didn't reveal any great solutions. Sure TC bros make a weld on stand, as do others...but if you take time to read a review or two, (unlike the headline only reading generation we seem to be breading) the people who actually have one of these dont rate them highly, saying not to park facing downhill the stand will fold back on itself very quickly and you're going to be picking your bike up off the sidewalk. The factory jiffy stand mechanically locks on a pivoting cam lock mechanism when the weight of the bike is on it, which is genius! Sure you don't want to really park any bike facing downhill...but with a factory original you can get away with less than ideal situations. So, the problem: The stand hits the primary belt drive. Easy - cut it off so it doesn't? Nope...that solves one problem and reveals another. The stand then dissapeared under the belt. The belt is direct drive to the motor...so its alway turning if the motor is running...aka "meat grinder" I had a sportster harley kickstand that took a hit for the team. Bit of metal hot glue action. If it all works out I'll get it chromed. Next issue, the stands locating lug wasn't working as it should. The stand could go past centre and fold back on itself. I needed to make a different design to factory to solve my first issue of the stand disappearing under the belt and the stand not really stopping where it should. This did the trick. Black one is factory part, new one installed is my new and improved version. The position shown above is folded back in the riding position. You can see I've added another lug/stop that limits the amount it can fold back, this keeps the tip of the foot hanging out enough so you can (funnily enough) kick it out, safely without putting your body parts too close to the "meat grinder"! You can see the tab just sticking out enough to get your foot safely on it with jandels??? Weirdly it's not in the way, as the riding position with the seat located way back forces you to put you feet behind and outward from the kickstand when balancing the bike in a sitting position. This wasn't intended...but I'll take dumb luck like this anyday. I'll leave it like that for now, and if need be I'll tweak it for extra ground clearance if its required...though I doubt it, as its hardly the type of bike you'll be dropping a knee on the ground during corners eh. The stand has about 30mm of upwards movement, so if it did ever touch...you'd hear it and still have a factor of safety of 30mm which is like 200mm of lean at handlebar height. So yeah, a fucking very long story about a simple kickstand...but its these shitty little problems that often take the most thought and effort to solve.
  11. Okay, I'm totally over working on cars right now...its time to go enjoy this thing and hit the streets.
  12. New shocks in front: Rides like a dream now on new shocks, plus all new ball joints and springs all done within the past 6 months. And legal as fuck! WOF/REG/CERT...fuck yeah!
  13. Yes!!!!! No reason why it shouldn't have, but I live with an irrational fear towards all things vehicle related that others have to approve... #wofphobia
  14. I've got a fuel pump you can have, probably what's already on yours. It uses case pressure to pump the diaphragm. Same as this: https://m.banggood.com/Pulse-Vacuum-Fuel-Pump-For-Mikuni-Honda-Odyssey-Arctic-Go-Kart-Single-Outlet-DF44-211-p-1141375.html?gmcCountry=NZ&currency=NZD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=zouzou&utm_campaign=ssc-nz-all-july&ad_id=353641305054&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiZPvBRDZARIsAORkq7dP97LhoWye8IAC54-Ao0urHF-qILmYfs21fodCZzZyYjZVnwGdaIMaAn7KEALw_wcB I brought 2, but only used one on Naomi's drift trike so I could mount the tank below the carburetor. Just put a T in the feed line so excess fuel can find it's way back to the tank. Here if you want it...
  15. No stress mate, if you need them use em. Otherwise your tanks here when you need it. I've got some pocket bike tyres here that are probably better quality than the ones you got. Welcome to search through my shit here and see if you can find anything that's of use?
  16. Seen that for sale, be interesting how it goes for you?
  17. Solved the main oil leak mystery And with a free gasket courtesy of Mike, the motor now appears to be free of annoying oil leaks.
  18. Took it for a thrash around a very winding bumpy road today. Bump stops are brilliant now, don't even notice them coming into play...but zero guard rubbing now. My steering limiters were a bit too big, so I've dropped out the extra nut. Works sweet! So overall, greatly improved things from how they were.
  19. Terrible photo, but you get the idea. The bump stop is 1" (25.4mm) wide, so some heavy walled SHS at 25mm x 25mm was doubled up and stitch welded together to give me a very strong 25mm x 50mm spacer block to fit under it. I've drilled corresponding holes right through to match the bump stops and it should just bolt right in. I may upgrade the bolts to the next size up...ummm just because.
  20. I think I've got it right after looking at this morning after a good nights sleep. I was super tired = brain stopped working... The impala has 2" drop spindles, hence the reason it's having issues. Plus wider tyres aren't helping either. I'm not sure on the amount of squish I should allow on the stop itself? This is what they look like. About 50mm high by 25mm wide (I'm guessing those numbers, but will be very close). How much do you think these are likely to deform by? Mathematically I need 35mm packers under the stops to make contact before the wheel hits the guard. But that doesn't allow for squishing of the stop. Heavy walled SHS comes in 25mmx25mm, so I'm thinking of stitch welding two bits of this together, one on top of the other. This would make a very strong spacer at 25mm x 50mm with a double gusset in the middle to strengthen it up. At 50mm, it would allow up to 15mm of squish which sounds about right to me? Thoughts????
  21. Yes. It takes a big hit to make it happen, but it can.
  22. What I'm trying to explain in above, is 45mm of movement at the bump stop, equals 80mm of wheel travel at the outer edge. So if I have an 80mm gap at the bump stop point, before bump stop contacts, then 80-45mm=35mm packer required. May as well make it 50mm to allow for squish of rubber?
  23. I'm hoping for it to be this easy? Is it just a simple lever arm ratio?
  24. Balls...3hrs of my life I'll never get back.