Kimjon

I thought that too...But where the rust had little to no prep done, it's rusted the worst by far. I wasn't expecting it to work to be honest...But thought I'd share the photos. It's only visible due to it been clear, otherwise you'd think it was perfectly fine as the surface still looks fine.

Come on...at least write something funny on them?

Finally; this part was covered in flakey paint and old rust. I hit it with a flap disc until it all looked shiny...But it wasn't the best of jobs I'll admit. However according to por15 it would just about stick to anything and prevent further rusting...so this was overkill preparation. Interestingly enough, if it was black colour...I'd think it was doing it's job. The por15 looks perfect from the outside, no cracks, no chips, no hazing...nothing at all to show it's defective on the outside. It's only because I used clear, that I can see the rust growing underneath. If it was black...I would be totally unaware of any issues.

Next up is some metal that was prepped much the same way, but obviously no as well. You can see the rust growing underneath the clear. It's like a spider web....and each month I see it spreading further.

I'm prepared to be shown the errors of my way, but here is some photo's I thought may entertain you all. Why por15? Well online it's touted as the best thing to use on the likes of chassis, fuel tanks, engine mounts...all those places that rust really easily under the car. It's said to love rust, basically stick to it and protect it from deteriorating further etc. Apparently you don't need to put a lot of effort into prep work which is another big plus. This bike fork is looking mint, about a year on from clear coating in por15. This was sanded back with a flap disc to bear metal...then painted in por15. Looks mint, but so it should. I'd expect the same result from any normal paint too. It's kept under a cover, so no uv light can get at it, as I was told por15 doesn't like sunlight. I didn't really expect this to last in all honesty and always had my doubts about doing it like this with no etch primer...But thought these results may deter anyone who's thinking of brushing this on their chassis (in the same product, but probably with black tint in it) and calling it job done.

There's heaps of information online with some pretty good rules of thumb to follow. I basically use these to get attributes I'm looking for i.e. low end, or mid range, or top end. Hard hitting...or soft but wide power band etc... I've tried a couple excel spreadsheets/calculators that I found on websites. They require very specific information, so only good if you've got all your port timings and areas recorded etc...which you'd have if tearing down and porting the motor anyway. But no good if you don't know the numbers. The design it popped out wasn't all that good, so I added more mid area into the pipe based purely on an assumption (It just didn't look right to me) and instantly gained a huge improvement! So like with everything online...take it with a grain of salt. I guess I like to experiment, and build a basic knowledge by actually making and trying things out for myself. Trying to learn along the way from both successes and failures. I'd call this an epic fail (red goped pictured above). I brought a tuned pipe for this motor...made to fit in an RC car. Had good reviews online, but wasn't very impressive. I ended up making my own and trashing the store brought tuned pipe...and the difference was night and day! My pipe turned it's performance from "sad"...to "wild"!!! So I learnt that even when you pay good money for a "tuned pipe" built for a specific application, it's still very hit and miss what you'll actually get. These pipes all added huge improvements over a stock muffler. I'm sure there's a better design and/or way of doing this for all of them, but the results have been well worth the effort in terms of power increases obtained. Not just little improvements...massive power gains.

There's a bit of luck accompanied with some crude upper and lower sizes I work within. I have a lot of off the shelf items that I own and have used. This gives me a guide. Some have much better traits than others...so I can try replicate the better traits. However, I'm somewhat hamstrung by what materials I have on hand...so that's where the luck comes into it, as I obviously can't do an exact copy of the store brought ones. These expansion chambers are all factory made (some slightly modified). This is where I can test and get a fairly good baseline from. I've filed them all with water to figure out the volumes of each. I even did it in stages to figure out volumes of each part of the pipe using an inspection camera. The funny thing is that the best factory pipe by far is the most fucked one, with a heavy restriction on a badly welded on 90° (header) after crashing and repairing it. It's on the red goped. It's the identical pipe to the one on the blue goped...exactly the same make and model, except the blue one has a nice factory mandrel bent free flowing header. I've made a heap of these and I'm sure there's always room for improvement...But for the most part I seam to be getting good results so far in terms of performance. Cosmetically...yep...lots of room for improvement.

Decided to use the first expansion chamber for another project as it was better suited for that one. So I had to make up another one...like this: Pretty happy with this. Should bring out the beast within the little motor! I'm a huge fan of putting the exhaust around the motor. Doing it this way has saved so many of my little motors when you crash. The exhaust may get a ding or worse case senario destroyed...but that's cheap to fix. Unlike the motor hitting concrete and going from 19,000rpm to zero in an instant! No motor survives that. It may be lacking in the carburetor department now, with the radical porting I did. I've pushed the port timing to the limits and it's going to draw a lot more air now. But that's just a bolt on part...so I'll try it like this first, then go from there.

Coming together nicely. The metal flake looks awesome in the sunlight.

Okay, I'm full of shit and did a huge u turn on the colour. When at powder coaters I saw this new colour with green, gold and black metal flake all mixed up together...yes...I like it. So as usual the guys did a fucking great job at the powder coaters and worked their magic with the application of this colour. Awesomeness!!!

That's pretty open. Unlikely to really improve braking performance. ..but a heap easier to service and get parts for.

The disc brakes...do they need to be certified too? Or because you've used stock spindle can you get away without cert?

So I learnt how to do epic wheelies on this thing. Basically go half throttle to just touch on powerband...back off...hit it hard again...and fuck yeah! Did this all day long until...fail!!! Yip, no rear brake means no way of saving it once you go too far. Managed to fuck myself and the goped up pretty well. The brake caliper = total right-off, buy another one. Exhaust = do it all again...fucked! Front brake disc = badly buckled and miss shaped. So I bent the disc roughly into shape...then did this to get it pretty good: Finished it by mounting wheel back on and then rotating it inside the new brake caliper and taping it over little by little until no rubbing sound occurred within a nice tight gap. Mint as bro!

I'll rest when I'm dead

I like the glass half full outlook you have...nice one

I'm pretty sure that my floor is only 100mm with steel reinforced concrete. Think I'm fucked here...might have to cut out a section and reinstate it, but thicker.

Yip, love the 4 doors too. I think it's because a couple mates had them 20 odd years ago and we'd road trip everywhere in them. Even back then they were flash cars...spent every cent they had making them look cool. Immaculate panel and paint, 350 motors...high 13sec quater mile times. Think that's why I ended up with the 4 door too. There were cheaper 2 doors around...but I just had to get 4 door as i find the shape more appealing. Plus "4 doors, more whores" as they say:) Question: the hoist...what thickness concrete. Any issues with that expansion cut next to the post? It's seriously my next thing I want.

Bit of a lazy day. Mocked this exhaust up. I had something similar once, ugly as sin...but the midrange was unreal - pulled like a school boy! I'm trying to recreate it from memory and using bits I have on hand. I remember the long 180° u bend having a parallel profile ie just a tube and thinking it was unusual, not been the standard tapering style...but fuck it worked well. Only one way to find out?

Setting the coil gap is easy. A business card provides the ideal gap...or about three sheets of thick paper. And assembled Fuck yeah! Happy as...all the maths check out with ports opening when they should, so this thing should absolutely rip!

Oh...forgot to mention that I use a stone in the dremel to very lightly chamfer all freshly ported surfaces inside the cylinder bore. This prevents the rings catching. And I also take the opportunity to true up all gasket surfaces on the linisher. You can use sandpaper on a sheet of glass and do it by hand if you don't have a linisher. Here's a good photo of the surface trued up. Go easy...don't want to remove much...just get it flat and true. So that's it. Wait 3 weeks for powder coating... and test it.

Righto, frames at powder coaters getting a new look. I took parts of it back to bare metal to weld some stress fractures. Glad I looked in the usual places first. Next was to carry on porting the motor. I've done this to death in the "not as cool or epic as muncies goped build". But here's the basics: Intake: before (it's previously been mildly ported by me before...wider than normal) Intake: after. Intakes...only port downwards. You can go wider so long as your ring pins stay on a bearing surface on the cylinder wall. Leave the intake surface finish rough. It helps atomise the fuel with the air for more efficiency. Exhaust: before Exhaust: after Exhausts, only ever port upwards. Once again you can go wider, so long as your ring pins stay on a bearing surface on the cylinder wall. Polish the exhaust port as smoothly as possible. This helps flow out/in the exhaust. And prevents carbon build up. Remember the exhaust plus air/fuel gets bounced back into the motor by the expansion chamber. Next is to polish the piston. This helps prevent carbon build up. Next I scribed the intake port onto the intake manifold. You can see a huge difference...now port match it. I treated it to new bearings and oil seals. Only cost $24 from a bearing shop to get high end SKF bearings and seals. I reused the gaskets as they only seal at very low pressure on the lower cases. They looked fine...I'm sure it'll be sweet as. I used to get rid of the gaskets and just use RTV...however these cases had no end play and that would have loaded the bearings too much in this case. So today's efforts, plus the massive transfer ports and flowed lower cases i did last week, should be quite an improvement.

Bit more done this morning. Wheels are just sitting there for inspiration. I need to lathe down the hubs and change to a bolt on style rim. But it's falling into shape. I'm waiting on an ebay clutch and little bits and bobs to complete. Buying from ebay works out about 70% cheaper. So mandatory 6 weeks waiting time...then should be all set to go.

Here we go...much better: It now has a beautiful smooth transition from round to D shaped. The manifold is a nice length to, which helps flow as well. Overall I think I'm onto a winner.

The motors intake port is D shaped. And the manifold is round...my OCD just can't live with that, just knowing it's wrong would keep me up at nights. So time for the quick steel. It's basically JB weld, but supposed to be more fuel resistant? Anyway, it makes for shaping a smooth transition to the port easy. I've got to leave it for an hour or two before I can dremel it into shape. Then we'll see if this was a good idea or not?

The other drift trikes were gifts for old friends I grew up with as a kid. However this one's for me. I'm in no hurry to finish it...but thought I'd start and as parts become available (free or cheap) I'll put it together. So far this is what I've done: Free drift trike and a $50 axle from a mini quad. Seat off a uni-tech project someone didn't get finished and their mum sold it to me on trademe for $20... all I wanted was the seat, the rest went to a local guy who makes bikes and gokarts with school kids after school to teach them life skills. Manifold taking shape. Aim is to mount this mikuni (copy) VM26 carburetor to a Honda 6.5hp motor. The motor was given to me by a mate for free. It sat for too long with gas in the carburetor and varnished up. I ordered a new carburetor...but then thought...hmmm???? I have a VM26 sitting here doing nothing, so why not try it out? Manifold all done. Oooooohhhh yeaaaahhhh!!!! Just like a brought one! Should be a nice improvement over stock carb.