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Posts posted by Kimjon
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8 hours ago, xsinclairx said:
Did you buy another one? TF is wrong with you!?
oh wait this is oldschool. It’s mandatory to have 6 bikes in the shed
Oh my, I thought this was a nonjudgemental space for fellow enthusiasts with equal amounts of OCD to support each others hopes, dreams and aspirations?
Nah just fucking with ya. Yip, the struggle is real. I have a disease...
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Vespa all loaded, and already drawn attention while loading in up in Central Wellington. Couple dudes have stopped and asked where to buy one from.
Only mistake I made was leaving my handlebar clamping contraption behind. But a little kiwi ingenuity I've pretty much achieved the same result by using a spare tie down strap.
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More video from race day.
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Took it for a good road test. Still waiting on the supplementary plate to arrive, but figured I'd talk my way out of a ticket if I happened to get pulled over.
Pretty stoked with how it works everything clears and works as hoped-for. Boot can open with it on (bike off obviously). Ready for full send!
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Nice work. I had to grind some of the inner structure away for chain clearance on my cvt. No drama, just marked out the parts that needed clearance and used a flap disc on a grinder.
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Another year, and the trikes have bred. 15 trikes now, but only 11 turned up this year due to life, work, kids sport, adults sport and a sprained uterus (okay, that last one may not be true, as I don't think technically a man can have a uterus?).
Anyway, a great day with good mates, skids, beer, talking shit.
#trikelife
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Kind of did a build thread here...
But long story short:
Made this, which holds these:
The end.
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Okay, lights wired.
lights working...yes!
loading "ramp" mounted...hey, its all i had. Cost nothing, so it'll do.
If only I had a less valuable scooter to test with first? Oh yeah, I do...heaps of them.
Like a glove!
Then...then came the big boy!
So confident I only used one strap to hold it there while I took photos. Mounting points for 4 eyes, so strapping it down won't be an issue.
And as if by magic, it simply unclips with 3 pins. Sweet!!!!
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Okay, so I kind of lost the plot with this. My friends keep sending me pics like this one:
Which is a little unnerving to look at. So I've gone big...real big!
Front wheel chock support, with extra bracing.
Arms are detachable, pin joint like tow bar. All welds backed up with fishplates.
3 points of contact. This thing could support a small truck now.
Tomorrow, make up some eyes for the straps to go, fit the light board, paint and finally rivet on the U channel.
Much bigger project than I anticipated, but I have gone maximum unicorns on this one.
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Nice one, you did well there. Those squish numbers are much better now, definitely worth the effort to fix it.
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Found some inner strength and dragged my sorry arse out into the shed, still hung over as fuck!
Working on the actual towbar support now, cut and tacked in place. Looks about right.
Full send, welded and going nowhere now. It is pinned in place, as per factory towball style.
Next up, I'll cut the chassis rail connectors and put sleeves inside so it can be detached in a similar way to the main drawbar. This should all make sense soon, when its made.
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Made some good progress yesterday.
Came up with a plan
Added 10mm plates tonthr chassis railes.
Then kind of started marrying it all together.
This is about the time I stopped, went out drinking for my birthday with a group of good mates...and yeah/nah...I'm so sick today...so sick! I'm still hung over as fuck! So today's a right off.
Kids...drinking is dumb, don't waste your life drinking. *this public service message is brought to you by a contradicting arsehole*
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23 hours ago, flyingbrick said:
Hi all. Interesting thread. @Kimjon you put far more thought into the floor situation than I did with my shed- not going to lie this makes me a little un easy as I simply went 150mm (i think, need to look back through what I did now) in an area 2m x 4.5m.
A few questions for you guys who have done it all already- I have 3 phase cable through into the shed but have only run single phase outlets so far as see no immediate need for 3ph... however I was told that the instant you "connect" three phase there are additional lines charges each month, is this true?
Also- are clear floor hoists stronger because of the top beam that keeps the tops of the towers from coming together?
Oh and Why wouldn't anyone go clear floor? Is it because lift height is limited by the top bar?
Thanks
I got my design from the bendpac website. They used to say a 30"×30" square at 12" deep under each tower was fine, but I noticed that none of the hoist manufacturers are recommending that any more.
Your 150mm slab is likely to be fine. You did a large area, so that's a pretty big beam.
I went above the bendpac specs because it future proofed the floor if I need to buy another hoist with a different footprint, there'll be room to put it somewhere away from the holes ive already made.
3 phase. Yeah...im still waiting on my friend who's an electrician to hook that up. Its been ages, kind of stuck in a shitty situation where I don't want to be rude, but need it done.
Clear floor hoists are much better, but only because of the "clear floor" part with no hump in the way. The top connector between towers isn't structural, its there only to hold the hydraulic cables and wires etc. Often its just flimsy sheetmetal. Given an unlimited budget I would have brought one, but unfortunately money isn't unlimited for me, I'm often doing things on the cheap. I basically got my hoist for free.
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11 hours ago, Dr Danger said:
Righto, I'm planning a slab and shed. Fishing for ideas.
Not to scale MSPaint of proposed arrangement.
The 6 x 4.7 footprint is non-negotiable as North and sliding door sides are on property boundary and the dog needs somewhere to crap, so I don't wanna go chopping into the yard any more.
New steel frame shed is marrying in with ancient timber frame, steel clad low roof item that does perfectly fine for what it is.
Roof height for new shed @ peak is 4.0m with the aim of a non clear floor 2 post hoist somewhere around the middle or maybe a little further away from the door - thoughts on exact position? The swing to get a car in is tight so pulling it away from the door could have it's advantages, but should be pretty sweet with a 2 poster in the middle. With something like Kimjon's hoist at 3000mm wide, there should still be 850ish mm between the uprights and walls either side - not perfect, but beggars can't be choosy.
The only cars I'll ever park on it are Mk1 Cortina's so should be sweet for height yes?
The internet suggests 200 mm of concrete and trench mesh is plenty for beams/hoist reinforcement. Anything to look out for here? How wide should they be roughly? Are the edge beams even necessary? I figured they wouldn't hurt at the entry and transition to existing slab to stop cracking. But if they aren't really needed, happy days.
All on reactive clay.
Tell me what I should think about that I haven't.
If your new slab is one thickness all the way through (you mentioned 200mm), then your good to go for 90% of hoists out there, as most want around 150mm thickness of 20mpa reinforced concrete. As the entire slab acts as a giant beam resisting the bending moment each hoist tower will put on the floor.
If you're only increasing the thickness of the slab under the hoist area, then you'll need to do something like I did, and make a beam capable of resting the stress that each post will place on that location. Im pretty sure this isn't your situation?
Best idea is to make your hoist choice, then get concrete specifications from them and work backwards from there.
Good luck...
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Balls. Those gearboxs are only single speed (forward and reverse).
Back to the drawing board.
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A few old English bikes used similar setup, but once again I doubt these will be cheap. Harley box will be around $1000 secondhand, so quite pricey.
Im sure I once saw gokart gearbox on ebay with a reverse gear for around $250? I'll Google it soon.
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Kimjon's 50cc (then later ... 150cc and 400cc...then 1000cc) of awesomeness!
in Two Wheels
Posted
FYI, just discovered a life hack. That plastic guage face was so yellowed by the sun and 20 years of scratches etc it was near impossible to see through.
This paint cutting compound had it crystal clear in about 30 seconds of rubbing (about the physical limit of my own endurance).