Kimjon

On 16/05/2020 at 19:43, Raizer said:

Been sent a couple screenshots of Chey Thompson offering me a couple early Jogs on FB (I deleted my account in beginning of lockdown), would be perfect for an engine donor for this.
/Fix a Jog too

What sort of $?

I still haven't picked up this scooter. Paid for it, but then got locked down and lifes got busy again.

1 hour ago, Muncie said:

Hope you have a rear disc on order? Do fuck all for slowing down but wonders for saving a case of the wobbles while on one wheel.

I'm a slow learner...short answer is nope.

I didn't ride this goped for ages after crashing it so badly, but eventually I forgave it and showed it some love. Approximately 4 weeks after that crash my arm still hurt like fuck! It felt like electric shocks everytime I twisted it (like when using a screwdriver)...so I had it x-rayed and found out it was broken. Yip, 4 weeks trying to carry on as nothing was wrong with a broken arm...equals dick!!!

Anyways, I noticed as the motor got hotter it would lose power. It wasn't enough to stop riding it, but it bugged me that it was brutally fast when cold - but not as good when hot.

So I teared down the motor for a look. Nothing obvious unfortunately. I was hoping to see a witness mark around the head gasket (I don't actually use a head gasket, just some RTV) but nothing. Convinced that the problem was still this area I put a proper gasket in there and removed a shim to balance out my squish band to get the same squish...but move the timing up a fraction.

It did the same thing, started strong...finished poorly. But this time I found my leak. The lower cases. Finally i could see a tiny misty area of fuel/air mix coming out of a small gap in the lower cases. Mystery solved...yay!!!!!!!!

Parts on order now, will fix it when i get them. This is exciting stuff, as it's already fast, but will only be better for it once that leak is plugged.

This was the minimum spec, I went bigger. Steel was at 150mm centres length ways, 200mm centers along the slab. All 12mm reo. Bendpack lifts have the most comprehensive detail on slab design out of all the lift companies.

However if you are building from scratch, pretty much all lifts are fine on 150mm thick concrete with mesh on the bottom. I only had to do this as mine was a retrofit.

Just now, westy said:

What do the post centres measure?

prepping my slab now and want a couple of thickenings in it. I’m thinking approx 3m centre’s?

Yes, centre to centre my towers are 3m apart. The base footprints are approximately 500mm x 400mm in size.

My new reinforced slab covers an area of 4.7m x 2m. Including the undercuts of 0.2m around the perimeter to key it in.

The surface area visable on top is 4.3m x 1.6m. The specifications call for all anchors bolts to be a min 300mm from any expansion cuts, edges, joins in the concrete etc. I up sized it to 400mm just because.

This is the floor mounted chain tensioner.

I noticed that one of the bearings was fucked, so ordered a replacement online for $3 from a lawn mower shop. I'm glad I picked it up before it gave me problems.

I also noticed a wear mark on this bracket where the chain has previously rubbed, so I trimmed that part off. 

A limit switch is held by the two tiny cap bolts. The switch was loose as fuck and the original machine screws were just slotted screw heads, that weren't a great fit to begin with. So I switched them out for better quality cap heads to keep it as tight as a n$#@ c@#$.

The limit switch is NO (normally open) switch that is held in the closed position by chain tension. If the chain was to break, go loose or come off, the limit switch opens and cuts the power to the motor. Why? Well the motor would otherwise keep lifting the car, but only on one side...this equals not good. So pretty simple but important safety feature.

So...all good to go, see you back here in 28 days when my concrete is hard enough to work with.

I've ordered replacement rubber pads off ebay for the hoist. In nz these are around $80 each and come as a complete unit. On ebay, I got all 4 pads (pad only) for $28 including delivery. The bottom of each thread is tack welded to prevent the screw part from coming past the bottom of the nut, so you can't undo it too far. I had to grind this off and cut a thread back into it with a cut off disc, which worked surprisingly well.

Quick skim in the lathe, ready for the pads when they arrive. Takes about 10 minutes per pad. I just did 2 of them, as the other 2 are okay for now.

The new pads are held in place by 2 M6 bolts, so easy as to do. And next time, if (there ever is) the next pads will just bolt on with no preparation required.

Man I'm going to be in trouble when my wife gets home...

Kidding, just using rags as a way to hold moisture on the slab while it cures. You can almost double the strength of concrete if properly cured vs just leaving it to do it's own thing. Or so the civil engineer I work with says...so it's gotta be true.

I figured no harm in doing this. I did it with all the other concrete I've got around here and its holding up to all the abuse very well.

Here's my switch board.

Is it pretty simple to connect a 3 phase outlet from here? I won't be doing the work obviously...but just after a reality check on feasibility?

Just now, rusty360 said:

Did ya sort ya single phase power, 3 phase hoist issues?

Not yet, but I've decided I "need" 3 phase regardless...so proceeding as if I already have it.

And what can you do with a 1m wide offcut of polythene...hmmmm...????

28 minutes ago, yetchh said:

 

Meh, just make sure it's warm and it'll come flying out.. As long as its not a cheap flimsy pressed steel one haha. 

Pretty sure those ramset chemset guns take a big cartridge and not standard anchor fix/glue etc cartridges. 

 

Yeah the one I use at work takes two plastic bags filled with hilti hit500. It looks like two dog rolls. But that shit is around $300 a roll. This sika concrete epoxy is only $50/300ml...so I adopted a different attitude when paying for it myself. But in all reality the stuff I do at work, the difference is between life or death.

This stuff im doing at home is a nice to do, but its already sitting on the ground so it can't fall any further...

Righto, back on topic.

I've finished the steel work.

And made a mesh lid that'll go in once the concrete is poured into the hole  up to the height of the starter bars in the original slab. The top mesh isn't structural, it's just to stop the concrete cracking.

The white corflute represents the tower placement. I've oversized the pad, to future proof in case I buy a different hoist etc. Note, this photo has a million concrete chairs in it. The civil engineer I work with told me to remove 90% of them, which I've done as in the first photo.

Ready for concrete...yus!!!

5 hours ago, westy said:

For mixing epoxy ect. Really need something like this 

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ramset-chemset-universal-applicator_p2260463

Yeah, for work I've got a battery powered Hilti, that mixes the two packs together...but a bit spendy for home use. 99% of the time at home I just need to squirt out some RTV to make a gasket. I do like the idea of that one though, buy once cry once...

Yes, yes I know what you're thinking and yes, it was exactly like this song...

Then on to the epoxy for gluing in the starters to tie the slabs together.

Cunt of a job, made more difficult by this caulking gun that fucked out on the first hole. I held it together with jubilee clips, a bit of pipe and constantly having to beat it back into shape...FML...

So definitely in the market for a new one if you've got a recommendation?

I've seen this. It represents good value for money if you added up the build cost versus sale price. However it comes with many hidden costs like this:

I had a funny situation occur once. I put a disc brake conversion on the front end. It bled up fine, worked great.

Then I got failed on a wof for said conversion (rightfully so) and had to get the car certified. I knew my pads had no brand marks on them and that would be a problem for the cert, so took it into a brake place and got them to chuck new pads on with recognized branding on the front and rear. For the price they were willing to do it for, it wasn't worth my time to do.

I got a phone call saying they couldn't bleed the system??? Wtf I thought, I was able to do it before, and it worked fine. They leak tested it, fucked around with it for ages...couldn't get it done... in the end it turns out the brand new master cylinder had an imperfection inside the bore. A small casting pit, that previously wasn't in a location that the piston reached, but by changing the pads and settings on the rear slaves etc now put the stroke into a different location and the pit landed right on the seal. Fluid would shoot under the seal through the pit.

Being a brand new part, it was the last thing I expected to find. But I can imagine that old stuff is highly likely to have pitted bores and the above experience is probably happening at some level. 

Just for shits and giggles, here's 2 quick passes with that tool on some approximate 40mm OD, 3mm wall thickness aluminum tube.

Before

After.

It's definitely not going to come off, that's for sure. And if I kept going I could make the rib bigger and bigger by doing more passes...but it's really not needed. A lump this size is impossible to slip off, the rubber hose would rip or burst before it could get over this hump.

Cheap, dirty and effective.

Just now, NickJ said:

Do hoists not have overload protection? Hydraulic relief valve or something?

The one in that video couldn't lift its rated capacity. They had to hook up an external pump to get it to lift the 10,000lb it was "rated to lift" by the sales scammers. That was the message they were trying to convey, ie. Most china lifts are grossly overstated in regards to capacity and if you did actually lift what they sell them as you're going to run into problems.

I made some about 6 years ago to do pipes on my VN commodore with the LT1 motor and 6 speed manual. I couldn't find radiator pipes, so used 3mm wall thickness aluminum pipes and some cut up radiator hose.

It crimped the aluminum no worries, I just did it in 2 or 3 passes. I'll try find a photo.

Just now, fletch said:

?

That's why they have different length arms so you can put the light end of the vehicle further from the centre.

I usually just give them the rock test once they are off the ground to see if it feels right....

Some have different arms, most don't. In the "home workshop" price bracket most are symmetrical. These are cheaper, and the quality probably reflects this too. There's a ton of photos online of crumpled arms on china lifts that were overloaded.