Sunbeam
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Posts posted by Sunbeam
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I was very excited to see this book come up on the Tard while I was away. Quite expensive but they don’t surface every day. BUY NOW!
Factory workshop manual! Super detailed beautiful illustrations.
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Drama.
We returned from holidays and have been “enjoying” winter again. I decided to tidy up a few jobs…
1. I was having trouble with the boss kit I bought because the adapter to momo bolt pattern was pants. I then bought a fiat 124 boss kit which I was lead to believe would work. It did not, leaving a huge gap between the steering column surround and the steering wheel boss. I then bought an 850 boss kit which I cross referenced to 125’s. This was much better but I had to trim it!
I took about 10mm off. Now the wheel is fitted and the horn is working, but annoyingly the self cancel mechanism isn’t, and it’s not the fault of the boss kit.
2. Before we went away, I drained the water from the cooling system and refilled it with proper coolant, took it for a hoon to circulate, no leaks noted, job done. Nope, came back to it leaking from every single hose connection and the rear water jacket cover. The hoses are no problem, resealed and now coolant tight. The water jacket cover however is going to be a pain. At very best it’s a gearbox out job and the clutch and flywheel need to come off. At worst it could be an engine out job.
3. I’ve completed one step for removing the box anyway because I took the driveshaft out to take it into town for balancing. Except it cannot be balanced because the front tripod/slip yoke is flogged out. I received a quote to repair which involves cutting off the slip stub and welding a new one on, and obtaining a new tripod. The cost is similar to having a custom driveshaft built which floored me, but after a week of ruminating I have authorised the work against my dutch judgement. Before I did this, I decided to pull the driveshaft from my parts wreck in the hope that it would be better and solve my problems, but no. The first thing I noticed is that the front half of the shaft was way too short…what the? And the yoke was just as floppy. The riddle was solved when I pulled the gearbox while I was under there. I don’t know why I never noticed but the gearbox looks nothing like a 124 box, and in the light of day once I dragged it out I recognised it immediately. It’s a late 131 sport box, one of the strongest of all Fiat rear wheel drive gearboxes. This made me happy. I don’t know what to do with it, but it’s going in the hoard and no hasty decisions will be made.
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2 hours ago, DoBro Jesus said:
Dang, just realized we've had the accord for well over a year now. Nothing has gone wrong as expected. Still a great car to drive. But the fuel economy leaves a bit to be desired tbh. It's pretty Thirsty.
So, with this in mind, if you want a reliable, super economical family hauler there's really only one option.
Yesssssss! Champion.
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18 hours ago, Bling said:
Another concering issue is why did Hyundai make the Ionic 6 so much worse looking than the Ionic 5? They nailed the 5 IMO, but the 6 reminds me of an MX6.
The current ‘design language’. Seen a bunch of elantras and sonatas recently on holidays in Canada. Similar level of ugly stick.
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Cheers for the hint. Makes sense I guess. Could go in the yellow or the +12v feeder.
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Hi all. I am an electrical numpty so please bear with me. I purchased an internally regulated alternator for my Fiat 125 in order to do away with the (faulty) external reg. The alternator I bought is meant for a late 70’s Spider. Here is the wiring diagram for the charge relay which gets deleted. It is item 16 with the alternator being 10 and the external reg 20.
My 125 special parts car is wired thus. My 125 road car is not, with power to terminal 87 NOT provided by a yellow/black jumper from 86, but a separate blue/white from the loom which has its own switched 12V. Does the same job I guess.
Now, the Fiat internet is full of instructions on how to arrange the wires and they all assert that you simply remove the yellow and blue from the relay and join them together while deleting the grey wire altogether. This does NOT work and even I can figure out it’s because the yellow excite wire isn’t getting power from anywhere and by extension the bulb in the dash (blue wire) isn’t getting power either!
Leaving the relay wired up, I get a nice stable 14 volts to the battery, but the charge light works in the opposite sense.
If I add a switched ignition feed to the blue/yellow combo I do get a charge light, and a steady 14v, BUT the light doesn’t go out, and the car doesn’t switch off (because the yellow wire is now feeding alternator volts backwards to the fuse block I guess)
Is anybody out there able to offer advice? I’m sure it’s simple to anyone who understands electrons…
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Rented a model y dual motor today in San Francisco because bored, waiting for our flight. Some aspects are cool, mainly insane acceleration. But for day to day I couldn’t have one. Hated the steering, the seats, and above all, the centre touch screen.
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This hasn’t moved since I was last here 10 years ago at SIL’s in Canadia
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1965 Honda 65 something or other spotted on travels in Canada
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5 hours ago, ajg193 said:
Kennelly Cams would be my first port of call. They're a good bunch in there.
Seconded
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Thermostat sorted. High beams have been found! It was an easy fix, another case of where did the panel beater tuck that earth wire…
On the to-do list: Take the driveshaft somewhere for a balance, sort an electric fan, sort alternator wiring mod (from external regulator to internally regulated alternator) and gain more clearance for the back tyres. The tyres are clearing the lip on the guard but now touching the outboard skin of the wheel tub with kids in the back.
Probably won’t get done for 6 weeks now as we’re off on holidays soon.
PFT 2.5 years ago
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Holy shitballs! Rather you than me with that spaghetti. Cool rig though, good luck getting it sorted.
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Re-torqued the head, re-did a ticky tappet (still ticks…grrr) and then put the bonnet back on. Looks like a proper car again. I need to sort the rear wheel clearance so I can go for a decent drive. Here’s some overexposed late afternoon potato pics.
Front springs have settled well. What say you?
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3 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:
A classic car, in fact the car that you always promised yourself.. and a squashed cortina
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18 hours ago, Dudley said:
I think I have a personal/nardi fiat bosskit
Chair, but I already ordered another from ebay
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Went for another drive this morning. Driveshaft vibration is still present despite carefully shimming the centre bearing. The thermostat is not opening so it made boiling noises and had a spew. The temp gauge didn’t go over half though…
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4 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Can you press the shaft/flange on the water pump in a bit?
Maybe. I’m prepared to try anyway.
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Right, I just got back from town. I dropped in at a club member’s place where he has his 1608 on an engine stand. The pulley from his engine is identical to the 2 I now have. However the stickout of the water pump on his engine is about 7mm less than the ones I was supplied which makes everything line up perfectly! So, the water pumps made by GMB for the 124 aren’t quite right. We did find a strange looking pulley in a box of bits in his garage that has a better offset but the centre hole didn’t fit over the snout of his pump by 0.5mm but I brought it home to try anyway.
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I’ve had some frustrating times trying to decipher why I have a misaligned water pump pulley
As far as I can tell, the pulley seems to be correct for a 1608cc twin cam. So where does that leave me? The hub height of the water pump must be wrong? The only thing left for me to do is seek out a club member who is doing up a 124BC with the original 1608 and see if he’ll let me come over and measure/compare some things.
In happier news after saving up for a few months this turned up in the post
Wow, it’s so light and so small compared to the factory bus wheel! What I wasn’t prepared for was the highly polished almost chrome-like spokes. I swear in the pictures it looked like a satin finish, so it was almost a bit of a downer, but I think it’s fine.
Sadly, what is NOT fine is the boss kit I bought ages ago. It will not engage with the self cancel mechanism, there is no way to fit the horn button, and the steering wheel nut will only engage half the threads before the hub bottoms out. The following picture is only an illusion…
Sigh… more money to spend!!
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What the fork…
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I concur with the above.
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I got a good tip from one of the old blokes at club night. Since all the mounts and the centre bearing are new, it’s possible that the front section of the shaft is out of alignment. This is apparently made worse by the aftermarket centre bearings sitting at a slightly different height. He reckons alignment of the front half is crucial and explained a cunning way to check it. It involves removing the donut but makes it seem pretty straightforward, so I’ll check that for sure.
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A water pump pulley turned up. It is the wrong one, made for an 1800. It fits well enough to run the engine, it just pushes the belt alignment out by about a belt width. Good enough for tutuing about with. The correct one is apparently on the way with a return courier bag for the wrong one, so can’t complain too hard. Anyway, noisy tappet was very apparent so while I still had the shim kit I went over them all again. Success! Quiet tappets, good oil flow etc. I got the boss to help me bleed the brakes which took ages. No end of air bubbles but we got there in the end using nearly a litre of fluid! One thing confused me though, it has a dual remote reservoir as it’s a dual circuit master. The fluid only went down in the rear reservoir for all 4 brakes?….They seem to be working well though. There was a horror moment when I walked into the shed this morning and found a large puddle of water under the car. It was dripping down the bell housing area so I immediately thought the worst and assumed the steel water jacket cover was leaking which is only accessible by splitting the engine and gearbox. Big whew when I saw it was the heater return line on the firewall! All fixed now. Then I took it for a hoon to get the fluids hot. Goes well, clutch is all good (higher pedal effort than I remember but it’s a new cable so might loosen up?) Brakes as I said work nicely, but there is a horrible driveline vibration that starts up at around 70k’s. Almost certainly the driveshaft which I have maybe put back on 180 degrees out…Finished the day by putting his face back on.
I have no high beams and a blinker repeater is out, so plenty to sort yet.
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Sunbeam's 1973 Fiat 125
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
I’m glad I have a hoist! With little wiggle room to get the gearbox out it’s nice to do it standing up instead of groveling on the concrete underneath the car.
The leak was obvious.
Will be using rtv this time, no gasket.
With it apart I’m lead to think (dangerous) is it 5 speed time?