MaxPower

5 hours ago, tortron said:

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/personalised-plates/listing-1720330423.htm?rsqid=9d9a85e05d77427e8c9ca6873b63b85b

quite like that! tenants just trashed our house big time so funds are unfortunately going to have to be moved into that drama for a few weeks. if its still up in a few weeks I might grab it.

2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Front disc(s), calipers potentially hub and studs. Have an idea on what you would want for those? Obviously freight will be a cunt but we'll figure something out. 

theres a guy down your way who is wreaking quite a few of these on trademe, would it not be better to go through him? Im terrible at making a price for things, plus he should really upgrade to 80 series callipers as they bolt on and are bigger. would like to keep the hubs and stubs sorry.

Have found that the handbrake cable is fairly tight from lifting the body, will look into getting a new one made, can't seem to find a way to make it work nicely. have extended 3 fuel lines, been ignoring the gear shifter boots and winch lever for now, they will need tweaking. like to look into removing the load sensing proportioning valve attached to the rear diff but not sure if I should?. would like to eventually run rear disc brakes if possible so won't be needing it then I think. moved the radiator down 50mm, will require some angle sheet to cover up the gaps this has created. another issue is the sway bar is now ballsed up from the new leafs, am looking into making some sway bar disconnects if i can use a mates lathe. Only have two patches left to weld in on the roof, need to sell some more shit to get the windscreen put in after I paint the roof.

21 hours ago, kyteler said:

Are you parting out that other one? I have a mate who may need some bits.. 

yes I only need a few bits off of it. Its a bj70 3b diesel. luxurys include back seat heater unit, air con. 

My wife has lost her shit at how high this thing sits now she's not that tall but I'm 6 4" I'm thinking I should have only put a 1" body lift in there, what do you guys think?

Its very easy to work under now though, no struggling to jam a jack under there somewhere.

Lift 'kit' turned up 25 days later. Also scored some larger 4 piston 80 series callipers from my father in law and pinched some trailer stubs off him for a future spare tyre swing.

might whip the bottom leaf out of the rear leafs as it is going to get caught up on shit, front leafs appear to be same size as the ones i pulled out? also i think the front leafs had been installed wrong way around by the previous owner? anyone know which way the wrap faces? put the wrap to the front, gave me more wheelbase and moved the tyre away from the exhaust. haven't checked if anything is rubbing yet. 

Picked up this beast from north of auckland. was a bit dodgy had no trailer lights, tow ute had no wof, no reg, kays out, speedo had (coughs) stopped working, and had to pick up my wife from the airport at 5am with this heap in tow. she's not too happy been gone 5 weeks and come home with 3 extra cars outside and the carport in a state.

On the plus side it runs and has all the parts missing or broken on mine. Has new tyres too.

finished glueing up the exhaust, bit ruff with the ss arc rods but hey thats what i have and no leaks so far. painted it up fitted it, last thing is to weld some mounts on. sounds nice and quiet at idle happy as with the muffler.

heres some crappy pics.

am off to whangaparoa tomorrow to pick up a rusty truck for spares. not looking forward to going to auckland. lift kit has taken almost 30 days to arrive still not here yet.

hi there have said to @johnnyfive that i can drive a support vehicle if needed, whats the go just take a trailer and some spare fuel and 2t oil? have a crappy generic first aid kit, epirb, radio. anything special i need to know?

24 minutes ago, johnnyfive said:

Ring up Toyota and try price a roof skin. I was surprised to be able to get one for my LN106 for like $500 if memory serves correct. 

Should really attach that sometime.

Sick project BTW

sweet as will ask a fella from the toyota dealership tomorrow, he's been good to deal with, not the usual whats the number plate deal. yeah I'm happy with it, carport is a state at the mo haha

1 hour ago, KP_wag said:

Yeap full float, looking badass with the new tyres btw. 

For brakes I just dredged my email and for calipers I used KZN130 ones and the standard 60-series rotors, easy mod as they are a straight swap and should be same for yours (40/60/70 series stuff is all mostly interchangeable). I left the rear with drums, recall there were relatively easy disc upgrades but the new calipers alone made a decent difference so I left it there. 

cool as my father in law has some early 90's 80 series callipers and discs he said i could have, will take a look at them and see if they are betterer. have also asked someone on trademe for a price for a 80 series non abs booster. new to toyotas so still learning the lego

sweet have just started patching up the roof, will fish oil the shit out of it after I paint the roof, I always seem to stall my projects when i find rust, this time I'm just going to use the vehicle, keep it dry, and look at doing a proper job later on (yeah right..) 

good that I've got full floaters i guess, kp i will be picking up the spares truck in probably 2 or 3 weeks at the most away.

wouldn't mind knowing a bit more about a brake upgrade. disc rear would be choice too but man parts are expensive on cruisers , not like the mitsis I'm used to. 

the exhaust flexi i brought is too long so have ordered a stubby one.

bit de motivated today, car has rust around the drivers side roof, cut it open some more and found this shit

so i guess i can kill what i can see and weld some patches, find a rust free roof (unlikely) or take it to a panel beater. i find it hard to pay other people to do work though cause I'm a tight arse. any ideas?

been looking at getting a bigger booster for it too as the brakes were shite before i put the bigger tyres on, guess they will be worse now. does anyone know the differences between a full floating rear axle and a semi? from what i have read the semis have a diff cover to access the 'c' clips to remove the axles and the FF diffs have no cover? 

had a look on the cert website and I think I should be ok, I can bring my exhaust out the side of my cruiser behind the drivers door? this is just a rough position for reference. theres no opening windows behind the drivers door etc. also would like to weld the exhaust hangers to the body mounts that come off the chassis, I can't see that being a problem? thanks  

heres a size comparison between 31's 32's and 35's 

thought I might use the spare 32's for a trailer build one day

so i put the 2" blocks in instead. 

before

after

i just don't like the look of all those beat up surfs you see around with big body lifts and small worn out mud tyres, thats my reason for not liking body lifts etc, the pto lever or hole will need modding, rounded off a bolt because i was being lazy, everything else seems fine brake lines and stuff, the fuel tank is mounted to the body so didn't have to do anything there. am going to work on the exhaust some more today

father in law sells 4wd camper trailers and roof top tents etc, he would like to whack on a roof tent for a show in taupo in september so need to get shit done. 

4 minutes ago, Mof said:

He also just said trim a little off the bottom of the fan shroud as it will hit the fan, and the transfer lever may need "adjusting". You might not have that problem with only 1"

cheers mof, would like to stay away from mucking around with shackles, with the fan shroud i was hoping i could just re-drill the shroud holes an inch higher\lower, dunno. the guy who sent me the blocks sent the wrong kit in the first place so have a 2" body lift kit here if i really need it but wouldn't like to. did your mate move his front diff forward? haven't looked at the transfer lever or fuel filler hose etc yet.

does anyone have some mags the same as my rear ones for sale? they are different to the fronts. brand is enkei, think they are a 3 piece size is 15" x 9" 

from what the internet says it should all be fine with 1" body lift, 2" springs and I will move the diff forward 1" too. hope it works! nah haven't driven it incase I fuck something, 37's must be tough on the drive train.

so instead of spending money on things like getting stuff for a wof , I went and brought 5 khumo 35" mud terrain tyres to make my ego bigger.

this is them on with no lift.

But of course the spare doesn't fit now cause its so friggn large. have to put new bumper\spare carrier on the to do list too.

have taken all the body bolts out to put the 1" body lift in tomorrow , that will allow me to finish the exhaust off, have the dump pipe all welded up but the exhaust flexi is too long. still waiting on the new leafs its been about 2 weeks now (first world issues) 

truck looks tiny with that massive mutt on the back, will pick up that parts truck in a few weeks and I'm happy to part with the 5 speed, would the seats work too? I'm not sure if it has power steer or not yet.

went digging in the roof and found more rust than I had expected. not sure if I'm keen to take this amount on. Also probably cant afford to pay for a pro to take it on as I imagine they will want to remove the roof. looks like condensation forms inside the roof then drips into the outer edges of the roof,  its too late when you see rust bubbles.

Anyone know how the gutters are attached on these? I'm guessing spot welds but there isn't much room on the a pillar to access them.

Im wondering if I can weld in new patches with leaving the gutters on and filling the inside of the roof with an anti rust wax etc to halt it for a while, better to have something you can use then it sit in the shed for years. The truck is always going to be stored under cover or in a shed.

What say you guys?

14 hours ago, KP_wag said:

Sweet, H55F? What diff ratios has it got in it? 

yes h55, 3.7s unfortunately , am looking for another 4.1 as I have one already, have found a 4.1 arb air locker but the copper air line is buggered and partially dissembled am a bit worried about buying it. 

paint is home now hope its good enough, muffler turned up too just waiting on the body lift before I finish the exhaust as I want it tucked up nice and high. Will work on the roof this weekend, it needs a few rust patches.

23 hours ago, KP_wag said:

Hot BJ, I just acquired one also (40 series 3B no T).

Where abouts are you man? I'm in Hams and could prolly help out re tig if you did all the metal work and presented me with a beautifully fit up, tacked sculpture so only have to run beads. Also depends if you want it back purged (prolly couldn't be bothered with that), and how picky you are as I'm no pro. Would be plenty pretty enough for a cruiser though... EDIT > see yer a fair way away, presuming too far

 

And yeah body lift definitely needs certification, and bolts need to be to correct grade (or at least that was the deal when I did my 60-series ages ago) 

have brought a cert sweet body lift kit, have welded up the turbo dump pipe tonight with these arc rods and they are doing a really nice job, think I'm going to weld it all up with them, won't show photos though haha. if you need any 3b parts this parts bj70 I'm picking up next weekend is running one. 

All the paint/primer etc turned up today will just paint the roof for now to fit a roof tent and look at spraying the body later on when time allows.

3 hours ago, Mof said:

So tell me, how do you get those rear side window frames out? 

To be honest I didn't know my self, so paid novus at the mt to take them out and put them back together, will give putting them back in a go myself. 

yes I am thanks will I follow up on that.