rotor_dude

is there not any rx7 series 1/2/3 left in nz or something ?

just find it funny going overseas like

yeah i wouldnt import a car from uk/ireland lol

surface rust is bad, as it goes deeper than than it looks

yeah just a wee one, my uk ones are just scrappers for some craic, but me jap import ones are good condition

have to get my pictures of my series 3 up, wowzer

no, they all rotted away probably 5-10 years after they came out, early rotors, once engine died, car died,

my experience, not a real market for them here tbh, to different for here lol having the rotary engine, to scared of them

climate/weather/salted roads just kills cars here, only takes 3-4 years then underneath is krusty as, also the condensation is bad, so they rust from the inside out, early rx8's are eeeek with rust

heard shocking stories about the old rx2/rx3's here, make you cry lol

ive found a few, but only a handful, be more in england/uk, but todate, not many have survived there also, but last few years a few rx2/rx3/rx4's have popped up,

there is a kiwi down south ireland, he brought his nz rx3 coupe over here

link - cheers

looks good, looking forward to update

13B PP, nice

any pics of it when it was green ?

^^^ you never said what engine you have, so couldnt say

but all V pulleys are twin, then extra pulleys for power steering, a/c etc

alt pulley has nothing to do with crankshaft pulley, as no timing marks etc, thats only to be able to run x2 alt belts

throw up a picture of her, as curious now lol

what threw me was you said 1.5-2 inches, thats massive timing differences(race car territory)

if it was 1cm i could understand lol usually only have est 1cm-2cm differences

^^^ lovely

white define nicer

i love the colour aubergine?/purple/blurple -

but to me its a bit too dark and hides the shapes/contours etc of the car

i have a purple rx8, love the colour also has a wee flake in it, but it hides the shape, want to put the half side skirts, front spoiler etc on her,

but think with the colour it wont stand out as much, oh well lol

build link

gloss black, man your keen as lol

cheers for pics,

the front is alot different to the B1600, this has some character to it

this has more detail around the lights and grille

more truck looking

Q - does the bonnet open forward like FB rx7 ?

Q - whats your plans for a colour for paint job ? two tone maybe ?

once youve done this one, maybe pick up another one for a rotary conversion lol

very cool,

pictures are always worth looking at

get em up

i had the 32/36 dgv ??? on mine and had a side draught too, sidey sounded nice

think i still have a manifold for the 32/36 ? in a box in the shed somewhere lol

yeah totally understand lad, alot easier, quicker, removing engine, fitting engine, turning key, put for sale sign on window lol

you never know, has it been rebuilt in japan ?

see your a wee distance for a wee drive to see it ?

^^^ thanks alltorque

^^^ so was it an aftermarket timing pulley ?

^^^ i see, your selling, well thats a different situation

time is a main factor most times lol, need the monies lol

can you get it compression tested ? ie see it compression tested ?

even cold, as if its stuffed cold, it wont be any better hot,

also is there a start up warranty or a 3 or 6 month warranty ?

hes put the package together good, ie engine, box, wiring, loom, ecu etc

suppose a good selling point would be, put import motor in your car get going etc, then maybe sell the original engine with the car, that way they can build there own engine whilst still driving the car

not sure if your going to keep your engine for another car

can someone edit second post and add to nz old school links

MK1 - Beans - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/23193-beans-mk1-cortina/

how come i cant edit my 2nd post ? time limit ?

wow, very cool,

anymore pictures of it when you bought it, frontal, side, birds eye etc

love the daily driver idea,

ive always wanted a b series for a daily work hack

oil - you mean fish oil ? or just engine oil ?

i know of fish oil and there is a wax type stuff you put in doors/chassis rails etc

looking forward to updates and pictures

clicked - follow this topic

Tossing up either buying this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=754081473

Or just buying a gasket set and seals for my motor. The above option is gonna get the car going within a week, but will easily owe me double what a rebuild will, once I sold off the extra bits.

Decisions decisions!

i find it better to repair your own engine, at least you know the condition of the engine and whats been done to it

also, in the beginning you think its cheaper to buy another engine, as it looks cheaper on paper, but in the end, you find out its better to spend the money and build your own,

especially if your keeping the car

also you can customise your engine whilst building it, ie paint, chrome, polish etc

well as long as its built decent lol

Timing pulley sorted.

 

Next is dizy wiring which I thought I had sussed but turns out not!

I'm running twin GT40r coils, 2 ballast resistors and a single electronic dizzy with two factory ignitors.

 

I have basically wired like below but with the ballast resistors in line. However I cant get any voltage on the coils. Is there supposed to be a transistor in this system (thinking between the coil and ignitor) which I am missing?

 

Or maybe my ignitors are both stuffed?

 

Apart from this, hooking up oil lines & vacuum Im ready to kick her in the guts!

 

 

Gaz

electronic distributors dont use ballast resistors or ballast coils, only points distributors use ballast resistors and ballast coils

yes ballast resistors are for the increased cranking voltage etc, but the ignition coils are different,

you have 2 coil types, ballast ignition coils and non ballast ignition coils, as the ohms etc are different

you need to check what coils you have, you should be using non ballast with electronic distributor

pretty sure gt40's are non ballast coil, but check the specifications

also wiring, you can not run the same power to the leading and trailing power wires,

as the leading and trailing timing will not be separate and you wont be able to set the timing up correctly and car will not run correctly

you need to use a diode in between the power going from leading to trailing, this is a must

Timing pulley sorted.

 

Gaz

how did you sort it ?

oil grades seemed to have changed slightly, since i was in nz

as before 2003, it was 10W40, even on the parts books etc, for 12A/13B /13BT etc

i used mobil 1, then onto castrol gtx3,

but i can see with the climate getter hotter, a 10W50 would be my choice, not sure id use a 20w--

now i just use castrol edge 5w40,

rx8 factory spec here is 5w30, but i use castrol magnatec10w40 for customers,

as they have same bearings as FC and FD depending on 4 or 6 port

but use edge 5w40 for my own rx8

the two factory ones are usually red and yellow, and about 1 cm apart from each other - leading and trailing

do you have another pulley you could put in front to see where the 2 factory marks are ?

otherwise, if distributor ignition,

if your dizzy is correct, remove distributor cap only (or FC dizzy cover) turn the engine until dizzy rotor faces forward or back depending on engine ie 12AT, (fc till timing marks align inside dizzy) and see if the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley line up, may have to rotate 180degrees, put rotor forward a couple of times to see

that will hopefully get you sussed or on way too

samething applies to fc dizzy etc

Q - what engine and model and series is it ?

also pictures of said pulley and marks help frontal and birds eye view

picture = thousand words an all lol

yes, series 4 rx7 alternators are internal fan

love the cosmo

and the R100

hmmmm

re holley pump

unless the pump is designed to run avgas, ie avgas friendly, then you'll have problems, so to me its not the pumps fault but the user lol

personally i would never use a holley red with a nikki nor a ida, just not enough grunt lol

think you'll find holley reds dont use a regulator, as they already around the 3.5-4.5 psi,

holley blue and blacks need regulators for the carb rotary, as output is higher than the base pressure, they flow more than the red too

holley blues come as a package, holley blue pump and blue regulator

think there are x2 different regulators, one that comes with blue pump and the even better one

holleys are on the noisy side lol

holley works well when setup right, ive never had a problem with them

not sure about quality going down, but its most likely nowadays, make things cheap lol

malpassi is very good and carter fuel pumps

or you can run an efi high pressure fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator that reduces the fuel pressure to a carb fuel pressure

personally havent tried it, but its an option

pretty sure malpassi do these high pressure to low pressure regulators

useless info, sandwhich plates, pet hate, they always leak oil after awhile as when oil filters changed the nut comes loose

grrrr lol

i tap into the oil filter housing, but suppose depends how many gauges you are attaching to the oil system

or even easier tap and fitting on the bolt that goes through the oil cooler pipe on the back plate

sorry didnt read whole thread, about diesels couldnt be bothered lol

so dont know if this has been said/done,

if it has the injector bleed offs, ie little hoses with T connectors, check them

i had a diesel once, hard to start in mornings, got harder, found the T pipes broken and hoses perished, letting the fuel drain back to tank

so had to use ether to get going, replaced T pieces and hoses, bamm, started no bother from then on

also another common fault injector seals