fletch

10 years ago we used to go to avondale PAP and set off all the airbags. 

rip out some speaker wire and join a few lengths together to get a few m away and use your cellphone battery to ignite it. tipped a few cars over.

also, that place in onehunga, behind the honda place on angle st. there was dangerous shit everywhere. got some kind of cut or blood pissing out everytime we went there

There are four threaded 3/8th holes around the crank.

I have a 25X2.5mm flat bar vertically between two of the holes.

There is an M10 bolt welded to the plate.

I've drawn in the plate and bolt holes and direction I think the force will go.

 

This appears to be a fairly common arrangement....

 

Maybe it needs the plate to go to three of the bolt holes, to cut down on the levering forces on the bracket? 

In hindsight, maybe the band should be flipped around so, when braking, it pulls on the mounting end instead of pushing on it? 

But, with the forces involved, will it really matter?

Should be strong enough bracket.

I would flip the band round. I mounted mine so the cable was only pulling the band enough to grab the clutch a bit and the clutch would pull it on tighter. Can lock up the wheel at speed, but also can be operated gradually. Not that it ever is

what brocky said.

you get the early 80s hilux diff. need to weld the spring mounts from the h190 on, but its narrower by around an inch each side. 

OR talk to ja1lb8 on here. hes got the v12 38 chev tudor with all the turbos. He shortened his h190 in his 130 cedric a fair bit. I think he said there was some spare spline on the axles. I think there was only an inch total in it.

I'll have another go at cleaning the carb.

The outlet for the tank has a fine mesh screen filter. Maybe I should change the fuel hose, could have some crap/varnish in it.

take the float out of the carb, clean the float valve out, unscrew the emulsion tube and give that a blow out with the air also as i have found shit in there often

heres my brake and combined ankle guard

i put it on roughly to see if it was sweet and it was so i have not touched it. the nuts on the stud are supposed to hold it over the clutch but they vibrate loose. it seems to stay in the perfect spot somehow even when the nuts fall off. can lock the tyre at 60ks with minor effort!

think this is what i bought but i cant remember my ebay pasword to check. Just measure your clutch OD first.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Go-Kart-Mini-Bike-4-1-2-Brake-Band-/200731014552?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebc803598

around 35 nz pesos shipped

ill take a photo of mine tomorrow if your interested. cost me 14 bucks on ebay plus a kids bmx brake lever

My mate jacked the frame out at the back and fitted a china mini bike disc to the other side. was a mission

You can just get a band brake and fit it around the clutch. then you have added bonus of ankle guard. works awesome cos you have 4:1 reduction also

Just got back to taranaki. Had an awesome time.

massive thanks to everybody who organised it.

and snoozin for the hubcaps!

yea the stand is a waste of time. you need to remodel the washer and beef up the spring so it actually stays down. mine will stand by itself but will tip over in a slight breeze

On most of our sites we inject glycol into the export gas to dry it out. The glycol bonds to the water, which is necessary cos the seperators run around -3 to -7 deg. Then the water glycol mix is run through a re-boiler at around 120-125 degrees to boil the water out of the glycol to get back to straight glycol.

Also, once we had a fiat race motor that made more power the hotter it got. We got this red coolant that comes in a goon bag. it was expensive but we could run the coolant at 125deg and made a few more horses. It sucked cos one of the runners inthe head leaked when cold so after every meeting we had to drain the shit back out into the goon bag for next week

This seems to be the cheapest option for a clutch:

http://stormparts.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_162&products_id=90803

$45, they have stock, and $4 shipping.

good price for a clutch! you want one like this that runs the #40/#420 chain, not the #35 chain as the 40 never falls off and never wears out. then you buy a sprocket from sprokets.co.nz machine out the centre, use 3 countersunk bolts and your away. 

you want a 10 tooth clutch and 40 tooth rear sprocket with a honda copy. you can go to 42 tooth rear but the chain hits the ground when you get the moto gp lean on in the corners. 

yea tell me about it..

5 speed. just found out my neighbour has a press so i can change the bearings with more ease. hope to get it done and assembled tomorrow night

Some progress on the gearbox front

i chose the L series gearset as it had the better ratios. 

I thought i would just change to the column change selectors and be done with it.

one problem with this is that nissan went to a larger 1/2 selector shaft in the later gearboxes

I couldnt run the larger shaft as the selector that fits it is for the bigger synchros that the earlier gearset does not have.

Here is the larger 1/2 selector on the earlier shaft 14mm vs 16mm

The column change 1/2 shaft also has a notch in it for clearance of the selector.

I decided to make a sleeve to fit the fork to the shaft. cant be that hard.

Using some precision engineering skillz i learned from my brother in law Ray, I lined up the 2 detent notches and marked where the new hole for the dowel pin needed to be.

I ground a flat and dot punched it then drilled.

Some of my workmates told me i would never drill it as it was some kind of hardened tool steel shit. They were wrong.

I used this fine quality chinese drill press and only fucked 4 drill bits

Then i made this sleeve up to go from 14mm up to 16mm. Pressed it on, machined a notch in it with 20 axis angle grinder

Test fit last night. Its the top one

WIN

Hey Brocky! 

good to hear you still have the wagon. 

im looking at making moulds of the tail light lenses to make some more as i have been looking for 2 years now and only 1 set have come up world wide and they went for silly money. Ill make a set for you.

Not sure about Wagnats, location good, timing bad. still keen

Cheers Matt, good to know.

I have found a driveshaft, speedo cable, extra column change linkage, and a few leads on a diff so looking good for going back together in time for the leadfoot cruise

I pulled the 3 speed box the other day to do a measure up.

its 135mm longer than the boxes i have. dammit.

You can see the extra length here

and here

The design of the 3 speed box (and 4 speed as an option in some cars) has all the gears in the front half of the box. The rear part of the shaft has no spline on it for 5th and reverse. My first plan was to slip some extra gears in, that was before i opened it up and saw the bare shaft.

See the pic below, there is also no room for 2 pairs of gears to fit in the longer housing.

At least the mounts line up

So heres where im at today

I need a driveshaft like this, but 135mm longer, which is 452mm between uj centres. Same yoke as s13/s14/r32 etc

I went to a few wreckers today and they all told me the sideways hat brigade has bought them all to do manual conversions on laurels and cefiros.

I did stumble upon a GD21 navara at a wreckers on my way home with the parts i need but i have to wait a few days until they decide if they are going to wreck it or keep it for a farm hack.

Also looking for a tidy H190 diff head. 4.11. Diff code HF41. came out in ka24e d21 navaras. i dont think we got them, or japan either. I drove one in american samoa a few years back, but im not going there again..

Electric window is on the passenger side rear quarter. Back before the days of angle parking, When people parallel parked, mum could walk up to the car with her shopping, stick the key in e barrel in the rear quarter and drop the window to chuck shit in, then back for more shopping.

There is also a switch up front so you can give the dog/kids some air while driving

The rear seats are fold up rear facing.

ill get some of the interior in a day or so. the whole floor folds down flat. its massive. For a datsun..

8 seats of sweaty vinyl

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45320-fletchs-1974-datsun-260c-wagon/

keen as!

unable to attend leadfoot festival due to scheduling conflicts.apparently the father should be at the birth these days... 

so this will be as close as i can get!

the sc14 from the estema is newer than the supra one.

it is 1.4L desplacement per revolution. your 2.8L engine is also 1.4L per revolution. a 1:1 pulley ratio will give you 0psi

i dont know the max rpm for the blowers, i thought it was around 12k

lets say it is, that means for a pulley ratio of 2:1 you will have 2.8l of air into your 1.4l per rev giving you 1 bar boost =14.5 psi with a 6grand rev limit on the engine

less 10-15% cos nothing ever works as good as you think it will