fletch

the early ca18et blocks had no crank girdle too.

years ago i remember guys in OZ talking about water leaking through that water port into the oil drain on the early motor. I thought they came out in u11 bluebird with the uneven 8 port head, and the even 8 port head came out in the u12 and s13. the 4 port came in the 'euro' s13 and random jap imports. but i remember pulling off a n13 at pick a part avondale

http://hi-techmetals.co.nz/

Laser cutters in east Tamaki. They do folding and stuff.

good to deal with Especially for tricky shit.

I have seen those tags on the frost plugs before from engine importer motors. If it gets cooked it falls off and no warranty.

That means it's probably a Det. Nobody would import then buy a DE right?

Only real difference is compression and oil squirters. Cranks are the same. Pretty sure rods are. Slight changes in cam but not much between ca16de, ca18de, and Det. I think the heads have numbers of 4L and 5L but can't remember. Search on the NICO forums

I know where there is a motor that will fit this that made about 180hp and revved to 11.

it's not advertised but he would probably sell it.

Anybody here done any work on cng compressors?

Got some issues with one that's been dumped on me.

Mostly temp related once we are over 160 Bar.

need somebody to chime in about valves and how they should look. Photos tomorrow maybe.

jam a couple of steelo pads down the column so the shaft rubs on them

Haha yea was pretty hectic fully sick busy about 10 years ago when I last visited to find info about making 2l ca18s. Probably died in the ass by now?

I can't 100% remember if the flywheel swaps over. Check Google images or exa forums in Oz

chuck a fwd ca18de in there. same size externally. will run off the ca16 ecu and sensors/injectors/afm

keen.

you can get a positioner with 4-20 input that can have a remote feedback. That way you dont need any programming changes to your control system. Samson make one that i have used, also i think there is a new fisher one. pretty expensive, but maybe around $4-6k per unit incl a positioner is not bad if its self contained

Or you could just slap in a small controller to run off your 4-20 and have it drive an i/p with an lvdt feedback

Or, a rotary positioner with one of those stupid arms on it and a rod to the end of the ram. then you have everything built into one package. some of the big valves in one of the LPG plants i maintain have this setup. ill try and find a pic

I have some Dumb spring positioner controlled pneumatic actuators which are getting old and forgetful now. these control vane style dampers 3 independant 300kw fans to maintain an overall chaimber pressure to within 2mm wg (chaimber is about 5 stories high and quite expensive so i don't want to implode/explode it if possible). control is though HMI via 4-20ma signal to modulate damper position.  rams are running 6 bar and 4inch so capable of ~4000N (see what i did there)

 

looks like this:

 

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRlNCbGnEDv53QCVNxGQPBu23k9UMGTDAPTr9U25m82i_81gT_A0yiVMhc

 

 

Currently two options: bin pneumatic actuators and run electic with built in feedback. Such as these:

 

but i am concened about duty cycle with the microadjustments these things are making on the run and I can really afford to have them take a break.

 

http://www.linak.com/products/linear-actuators.aspx?product=LA36

 

option 2 is to find some linear positioners and retrofit to current actuators, they would need to run 4-20 feedback and have a stroke of ~300mm currently this is my prefered removes reservation of duty cycle and i know the rams are up to the task. 

 

Questions A: do these things simple linear positioners exist, if I put a geared system to convert linear to rotary position (seems like rotary positioners are way more common) what do i do about deadband?  

will it be worse than the current setup. (which is OK mostly during steady state but is a bastard at low flow /ramp-up where small changes have a massive effect on airflow / pressure

 

ok I lied.. Option 3 exists which is to control fans via VSD but the length of cables from MCC will make it cost prohibitive and minimal energy savings are likely. hence two options...

 

Tech spam it up..

Those electric linear actuators are shit for what you want to do.

option 2: http://www.omega.com/pptst/LD630.html

I have used these before. they are mint. Look up LVDT positioner.many different types, probably can find cheaper and with a nz distributor with local stock. Nice smooth analog signal, easiest to work with compared to digital encoders -linear or rotary

-also that link above is suitable 5-300mm so should be good.

option 3: why not vsd? for 300kw motors will be spendy, but suprising the amount of energy you will save. i can get you a price if your interested, we get a good rate on them. why do you need new cables?

didnt read properly, thought it was LD28

yea true. You can get a full bearing and seal kit from bts taranaki for around 160. i used one the other day and it come all japanese nachi bearings

Bit of a late update.

So i reassembled the gearbox and it seemed to change gears ok.

After i chucked it in i made cut up the navara driveshaft to make a new front half 130mm longer. I used the UJ's off the navara front half as they were sweet and the hanger bearing rubber was still good. I turned the tube off in the lathe and cut a section out of the rear half to go in.

A mate gave me a hand to assemble it on his bigger lathe and we arc welded it up.

It looks like its sticking out a long way from the box, but its only about 8mm further out than it was in the navara. 

The column changer shaft on the wagon was a tiny bit short but the navara lower half was a perfect fit. They are splined together to be collapseable  in an accident.

Also the wagon lever did not have enough in and out travel to select the extra row of gears. The part i am holding is the bush from the wagon which i punched out and as luck would have it, the navara with the spring return fitted perfectly

I turned the old stopper off the navara shaft and made a new one to grub screw on

Complete

Once i had it all installed i used a mixture of the navara and wagon linkages to get the shortest shift travel and also mixed and matched the best bushes for minimum slop.

First test drive was around the block then the next day ray and i went to hamilton for the night and the next day went to auckland for the cruise to the leadfoot ranch then back to new plymouth.

Around 950kms test drive and it went well. Only problem was the bolt on the column change shaft nearly fell out a few km from home and the gear changes got real sloppy.

Also by pure luck the driveshaft that was welded by a pair of low flying seagulls seems to be perfectly balanced. got it up to 136kmh and no vibrations

Only downside was my rebuild of the gearbox. I mix and matched the synchros but put the 1st and 2nd around the wrong way. When the box is cold it wont go into 2nd when moving. Its no trouble when warm. 

Also, the speedo drive is on the other side of the tail housing so the cable hits the exhaust. Im waiting on a right angle drive box for the right price to come up on ebay and ill be away. For now its all good.

Done a bit of slaving the last few days with a shovel and barrow to level a pad for the water tank.

Got the tank from Devan tanks. $3400 delivered for 30,000L

Its 450kg so it was stuck there for a while.

Then Ray came to visit yesterday and we did some towing

Result!

Have to plumb it up this week and also tie it down in case the wind picks up before it rains

Nah, thats just inside. 100mm fill in one corner and 650mm in the opposite corner so an average of around 350-400mm over the whole area of 121m plus a bit extra is around 55m3

looking at a 6m strip across the front for parking also.

Getting a few quotes this week for the concrete.

Is the 3.5 a CA43 (that is to say C200 but I guess the 3.5 would make it a CA35) setup still? Just thinking about mounts, etc. Would happily put in longer legs because the first 2 gears are fucking useless at the moment anyway.

 

I see you have the later box with the bigger front bearing. 

you could just chuck in rb20 guts to get some better ratios

Tru-Test Minibiking P1:

Bit of fun we got up to last summer. Lighting is shit cos pretty late in the day.

All running Chinese honda 6.5

Spotted this machine in Auckland

Friend of a friend owns this. Has had full resto. Has done a few weddings and whatnot. It's mint.

I got it from Standard Timber ITM Stratford. Pretty good to deal with. No hassles etc. 

Yea one of the selling points is that it wont be a creaker in the high wind zone here, and all the sweet hanging points.

Also

Finished

Water tank coming this weekend.

Maybe will get fill installed and front of shed cleared for more concrete

it seems to me that due to the dwindling number of options for personalised plates available new, the price is going up so they can keep making money. 

If nobody bought a personalised plate for a year then surely they would go bust and f off?

these guys made a 4cyl briggs. lots of videos of its construction