fletch

Shit those videos show how much of a hiding factory suspension gets.

Might spend a bit more time on my Cedric's going over all the front end!

Yeah a coil would have more surface area for less volume of water.

This will put more temperature into the water in the coil creating faster flow, which means more heat transfer per hour into your tub.

Make your coil 20mm or 25mm if possible. 15mm will have too much internal restriction for a thermosyphon

I think under the cover on the motor there are extra connections to make the motor run in reverse, powering one of them and not the other via a switch reverses it,

Yea single phase is often a fuck up to change direction. Especially if it's Cap start/run etc

Usually just have a go. Will only pop the circuit breaker at worst. -as long as your not touching it....

Yeah just use one of the digital inputs on the drive as a fwd/rev switch. You can set the speed at which it ramps down to 0 then accelerates in the other direction.

Good for braking something with lots of inertia

Aston Marton? A guy in the mines was driving one 3hrs out to camp 4days on 4 off. He had the highest milage of any Aston Martin and they said they would buy it off him when he decided to sell.

He said it was reliable and servicing was not too bad.

I got passed by him a few times out in the desert. He was doing warp 9. So it got a fair work out.

I'm also keen to see if anybody here has moulded their own lenses.

My 260c wagon has un-obtainium lenses on the back.

So far I only have time as space to search for other people on the net who have done it. Brocky41 had some Chinese bloke on Facebook that was making them for 330 Cedric. They looked pretty good, but no photos of the process.

You can buy kits to make the molds and cast the lenses. Aluminite. Com or something

here are a pair of p76 v8's. I could pickup and store in new plymouth if you purchase

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/engines/auction-988213166.htm

http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_5

These guys make it. You could check out all their products and make your own.

Don't those e30 bmw's have a rod under the dash from the pedals on the right to the brake master on the left? One of my mates took off the 90deg part on the left side and put a charade booster onto the stock bmw master and had the rod pushing straight into it.

Passed a cert and has been on the road about 9 years

How much pressure do you want? Give your stock one a love tap with a hammer to squash the spring up a bit for some more psi.

Keen.

Just need to fix pull start and air box ,

And clear it with the boss.....

Check the coil to flywheel gap. I usually go for 1x business card thickness

Before you try to start it when cold next time, check the float bowl on the carb to see whether there's any fuel left in it. Prior to that perhaps, pull the choke, stab the gas three times then turn the key.

I have the same fuel issues. If it's been running in the last 48 hours then 1 pump of the throttle plus some choke and it starts. 3 days or more not running and the fuel in the carb has gone/evaporated/been drunk by aliens, and it takes a lot of cranking for the mechanical fuel pump to fill the lines and get it back to the carb.

I bought a reconditioned electronic dizzy from the US on ebay. wasnt too expensive and cured all my ignition problems.

make sure you get the one with the right ignition module. i found all the information on google

-actually that link richy sent you is what i followed

anybody got any ideas on heater hoses? i need to make a curly wurly one to wrap over and around the heaterbox inside the car.

5/8 ID

so far im struggling with various supercheap/repco randoms and some joiners that i have yet to purchase. I want to run as few joins as possible.

also, there is no pick a part in new plymouth so i cant rummage for joiners and odd shaped hoses.

Been on a few weekend burns and i noticed it was loosing water. One of the heater hoses was leaking in the engine bay. gave it a squeeze and it disintegrated in my hands.

I pulled it off and decided the top radiator hose was also on the verge of failure. next thing i know, all the hoses are out, the dash is half out, the heater is out etc etc

not 1 of these 45 year old hoses is stocked by anybody so i took a selection from supercheap and repco to try.

So far i have fitted 2 hoses. only 7 or 8 to go.

saw on an old forum that a hilux power steering box bolts in

Hey, fletch.

Did you have any problems making this road legal? Assuming it is. Any cert or warrant trouble?

Not complete yet. I'll have a build thread up in 6 months.....

The Opel corsa is the Barina over here AFAIK. Don't know of any kits in NZ but as you've seen by looking into it there are a number of options around. That link above sounds like a good option too.

Here's the ebay link for the wiring harness..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Ion-Chevrolet-Equinox-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-EPAS/171733694488?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D9e0f7cfc6f254125a333e8ccf28708f9%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D3%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D171027023129

This one is cheaper from the UK for the Corsa, & looks the same..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsa-B-C-Kit-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-With-ECU-plug-EPAS/181681672736?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33840%26meid%3Daf64535bddf44865a73d6a5e66d14ddd%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D170917297179

Yea same unit as the swift. All made by GM.

Cool, I'll look into this more. Get my head around the basics. So, you're saying that I can pull this set up from other cars that came with from factory? E.g Suzuki Swifts? As an option over buying a new set up from a specialist? Does my manual set up stay the way it is with this electric system integrated? Or do I need to add or remove other components to the steering column and rack?

Thanks man, this is good stuff.

Also,

To fit it us a fuck around. Depends on how much room you have under the dash.

It took me a while to make a temporary bracket and test it then cut it off and make another one and try that.

I also converted to steering rack so that made it a pick.

If your keeping the steering box it will be easy. Just find some space, chop the column and jam the motor in with a bracket to hold the torque.

Cool, I'll look into this more. Get my head around the basics. So, you're saying that I can pull this set up from other cars that came with from factory? E.g Suzuki Swifts? As an option over buying a new set up from a specialist? Does my manual set up stay the way it is with this electric system integrated? Or do I need to add or remove other components to the steering column and rack?

Thanks man, this is good stuff.

In the UK they use the setup from a Vauxhall corsa or something similar. It's the same unit as the swift and some other cars. There is a tilt column version and a non tilt. I used the tilt version to give me room with the original Datsun steering column. Depends if you have a collapsible column

From memory there and many places in the UK that sell the steering controller. But if you get the factory unit you will be able to adapt it to your car.

It needs an rpm pulse so it knows the engine is running and a speed pulse input so it can decrease the assist as you speed up. The aftermarket control boxes you can buy just trick these signals.

A mate in Auckland has built some of these as he uses one in his mini-sprint and would sell you one for a box of beers.

Look at electric power steering as an option too?.. Like this..

I have put this steering into my Datsun Cedric as the steering box had to go due to the engine swap.

The electric booster came from a Suzuki swift. It was pretty easy.

Make sure you get the control box which is bolted to the column, then you just need a small circuit which tricks it into running. It needs a speed input and rpm input but the circuit board does that plus gives you adjustment for how much assist you want. You can buy it from the UK as they fit them to lots of rally cars there.

Always wanted to do this.

A few people have tried and never really been successful getting the auto Trans to work.

It's not real hard. You want a half cut to make it easy.

then you just chuck it in bro.

keep the engine and gearbox harness un-molested. You will then only have the connections to the body to do.

You rob the body plugs from the half cut and splice them into your navara body loom. You will have to run a few extra wires to get 12v to the engine loom where the navara won't have it, plus maybe mod the rpm signal. You can buy small circuit board to do this. Just a frequency adjuster Like the type to adjust electronic speedos.

Try and get the vh41 with the sideways lobster inlet manifold. Not the later log type one as the earlier wiring is easier to fiddle with.

Can't recommend anybody up that way to do it. But if you pull the pin I'm keen to buy it and do the same myself.

or maybe they just swapped the heads