fletch

Not looking good here either. We have some err.. water damage at work....

Are you riding there? On your death trap? Haha

Turn the engine over until the inlet valves are partially open on that cylinder and put some compressed air onto a hose on the inlet manifold and pressurize the cylinder to blow out swarf.

Jackpot.

Excuse the rivets. I was out of wood screws.

Should be there. Couple of jobs to finish at work then jam a beer can in the hole in the muffler and wait for the cover of darkness

HERE IS SOME PHOTOS

These guys are right. Have seen/done this a few times.

Easy test is to get under there and pull the pin out and see if there is any pressure in the rod.

There needs to be a little bit of slop in the linkage about 3mm before the pedal gets back to the travel stop.

i have seen a guy knock all the flux off some cast iron rods and use them with a tig on a big pump impellor that was cracked badly. worked well. Pumped a lot of shit for years after

Thanks man. Pm sent

My cousin has one of those sweet full grandma armchair spec mitsi sigma turbos that I believe has blown a turbo oil seal.

Is anybody keen to go and have a look/drive it and maybe pull the turbo off for repair?

There's a box of beer in it just for having a look.

Worth a look. The occupants of the house are all pretty easy on the eyes too..

Id steer away from pushloc connectors, compression/olive fittings are waaay better, they also have the advantage of not siezing solid after a year of driving around.

Yes not the push in style ones. I mean that blue parker push on hose that you don't need hose clips for. It's rated for a decent pressure.

300psi is good. You can run 1/2 inch push lock hose to all the corners.

You will need a solenoid at each corner to shut in the pressure once pumped up so the car does not tip over on a corner.

Also a return solenoid at the pump.

You could get all fancy with a pressure controller and what not, but a gauge will be much easier and cheaper.

Wire a 300psi pressure switch into the pump so it cuts out once up to pressure and shut all the valves.

what sort of pressure do you need? 

I would lean toward an electric power steer pump also. They can pump into the 1000's of psi, and move a decent volume.

The MR2 one is ok, or the opel/astra one is better 

you wouldn't have to pump the fluid back into the reservoir when parked, just open the solenoid back to the tank and let the weight of the car push the oil back into the tank.

I'll be there. Have to run the gauntlet from now on....

I wonder if there's any retry limit or timeout on passwords on early links.

Get Ned to write a script to brute force the password haha.

If you did end up needing to nuke it back to a fresh start though.

If your ECU can output datalogs to a laptop then you could leave that running for a few hours while you drive around first.

Then you could reconstruct the important parts of your ignition map easily enough. Not the best option though!

I was going to suggest exactly the above.

Worth a shot on the password, otherwise log it and get close yourself.

Then a cheaper tune as 3/4 done.

Man every time I go past that weirdo at midhurst I used to see that green thing and think of you. I always thought you knew about it tho hah. I remember it in about 05 being pretty mint in comparison. That guy is weird as shit and seems to dislike selling stuff so you did well to get it!

Epic dolly trip. Did you take it through forgotten highway?

Haha I also.have the same story. Been doing some work in midhirst occasionally over last few years and seen it peeping out in the grass.

That crazy old guy with the hair just sits around and smokes. Never seen anything leave the place.

good to see you yesterday.

Hope nothing good fell off on the way home!

i wonder if there is anywhere we can go that's under cover? will probably be raining from now on?

+1 for Jesse Streeter. Spent a fair bit through him when I was in Oz, and some in nz. Never had any trouble.

Probably cheaper with mlracing in a container for the big stuff.

Sr20? Cheaper and can +t cheaply instead of getting all Roman on it and working hard for dem gains.

I was told by some old barry to leave all the bolts loose and tighten them up once the car was at ride height. It was to make bushes last longer.

I think it's just for those bonded rubber ones maybe

can you just drill and tap a grease nipple into the steel part of the bush and give it a couple pumps?

shed tour!

i can host one, this sunday or monday.

All you need to bring is some muscle. I need to move 5 motors, a dead car, and a car worth of parts from one shed to another.

Ill supply the bbq and beers and minibike of serious injury

I'm keen.

Not a lot of free time but will do my best to attend something.

Thoughts from FP1

Cars are louder

The Merc Intake is fucking massive

Roll on FP2 for later today

They got air blowing all under the floor from that duct by the sounds of it.

thought this was funny...

The FIA has changed the rules regarding car exhaust in a bid to make the current generation of cars louder.

The World Motor Sport Council approved the changes to tail pipes which will come into effect next year having determined they will not reduce the performance or efficiency of the current V6 hybrid turbo power units.

“For 2016, all cars must have a separate exhaust wastegate tailpipe through which all and only wastegate exhaust gases must pass,” noted the FIA. “This measure has been undertaken to increase the noise of the cars and will not have any significant effect on power or emissions.”

I watched the practice days the other week.

Screamer pipe makes a tiny increase in noise, and only once the engine is at full tap due to the generator on the turbo taking charge once it hits full boost and stopping it making any more boost.