fletch

Yeah what Clint said. Worked on my mates one a while ago. Had similar problems. Lots of shut stuck to the sensors cos they magnet.

Also, Physics guys.

Where's a table of the specific heat capacity of gas at, sat 20degC and 1 atmos? If I wanted to pick a gas for high heat capacity, do I use Sulfur Hexafluoride?

Edit,

nope

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stirling_engine#Operation

Hydrogen is good. They use it to cool the generators at Huntly power station. Probably the best heat capacity vs price

great photos of milford and stuff. You did well to get there on a clear day.

I have been a few times for various reasons and the weather has always been shit and foggy.

Send ja1lb8 a pm about century wheels. He has a set he might want to part with.

Looks mint.

I see your running the auto fan belt tensioner. If you find your spitting fan belts when your doing hectik d1 clutch kicks, you will need to make a bracket to hold the tensioner tight.

The manual version has a little shock absorber thing on it, but Toyota want around 800 nz pesos for it.

The bike also hadn't been entered into the system at boarder inspection, so i had to apply for an exemption from boarder inspection. This was no dramas, as i had copies of the bill of lading, and customs docs.

So yeah, its all about the paper work, you will need paperwork showing the ownership trail to you.

Jackpot. I have this issue with a car but it's a long way from getting on the road. Have all the paperwork so should be OK

Thanks man.

Is that the vtnz in the valley or town? I have a car I want to attempt to Vin.

If you own it for less than a year you have to pay gst on the purchase price when you bring it in.

I don't know about the 50% duty thing after a year. It may have been different for me as I was moving back

One of the cars I bought back with me I had owned for less than a year. I forget what they charged me, but I might have 'accidentally' put a decimal point in the wrong spot on the change of ownership papers....

Sweet. Taking the wagon for wof tomorrow.

Good to put another face to a name.

Was keen for sharns but had to get home.

Running them on methanol is one of the most hilarious things I ever did. Holy shit it wakes up.

Did you change the carb?

I'm being held back by exhaust and airbox, but don't want to change it as current I'm just an adult on a kids toy.

If I change it, I will become a hoon on a motorbike to the people that see me riding it along the walkway.

Haha balls out. Do i recall you running octane booster in that for a while?

Yea still am. Trying drilling out the Jets and emulsion tubes to get some more fuel in, or maybe one of those 20mm China motorbike carbs.

Did it feel like 70?

Can't remember. Was fast, but I was busy listening to see if it was still knocking and hoping it wouldn't spit a rod

went for a squirt up my road when i got home from work. 

gps indicates 70kmh max speed.

holy shit

280mm diameter tyre, 4.4:1 ratio, 5800 rpm

Excellent work again!

Looks like it's coming along well.

A big issue with l series engines is the cam chain. Specifically the tensioner.

You have lowered the cam by 80 thou which is what, 2mm that = 4mm of chain slack to eat up. Pretty sure the tensioner can't take that.

What you are supposed to do is shim the cam towers up the 80 thou(cam saver shims), and fit bigger or smaller lash caps to the tops of the valves to get the geometry right.

Yes but it's the acceleration that matters.

Traveling up the bore then stopping and going back down is where all the force is.

A longer rod reduces the peak acceleration of the piston.

I actually thought longer rods made more torque everywhere? Reduced rod angularity transmits energy from the piston more effectively. Or somesuch.

One of the main reasons is slower acceleration of the piston at TDC and bdc.

For backyard cowboys like us it means you can use a cheaper piston and rod due to lower stresses.

I read somewhere that the screaming v10 f1 motors had to run a real long rod as at 20k rpm the piston would out accelerate the flame front at the point of ignition and lose torque!

I read one some skidder forum guys would start with A RD block for sustained high boost circuit racing applications.

Yea it's the heavier casting rfb block. I think they use them some places as they are taller than the rb25/26 block.

Most people just run the rb30 block.

The LD is just an L28 block but 3/4 taller and bit smaller in the bore.

With a filthy deez head on it

Taller deck also means better rod stroke ratio

Yes, but only really matters on high rpm motors. This one won't see over 7000 so the only reason for doing it was the supposedly thicker bore that could go out to 89 or 90mm, and the taller deck to more easily fit a bigger stroke.

It's a v57 block which apparently has thick walls. But has not.

The taller deck gives more room for more stroke from am offset ground crank.

Obviously only worth it if you can also go to 89mm or more bore

I have the china spec flywheel of random lottery explosions..... can't I just make a scatter shield with some 6mm steel strap for like free? A $100 flywheel is a bit of money, I know, I know, how much are my legs worth to me if/when it explodes.

If I ever upgrade the standard valve springs, I think I will have to also get one of those alloy flywheels.

I put some upgraded valve springs in. Even the upgraded ones were hilariously soft. $8 each. Can't expect much!

Nice exhaust. You going to muffle it? Mine is stock to try not offend the old biddies on the walkway

Got mine running today after a long time parked up.

Put the flywheel key in thats filed in half for 8deg advance, and the biggest jet I have.

Still knocks a bit. Might have to un-shave the head. Think I took too much off....

Anyway, my boy is hooked

I see you have moved your tank over. Have you kinked the fuel hose?

Take the fuel cap off the tank and fire a shot of air up the fuel hose into the tank.

If it runs good for a while then you probably got shit in he tank.

Nice job on the throttle. I give mine full throttle to start it and let it go just before it leaps out of my grip.

Have you got the factory China spec spark plug? Throw that shit away.

Also check the coil to flywheel gap. I think optimum is about 1 business card thick.

Have you ditched the China flywheel? They can explode when you take the governor off....

Haha. All good. I'll be there next time. Maybe buy some beers and come to mine and help strip some motors while drinking beers.