vk327

Nissan dualis/qashqai pedal 

Never had issues with the ve pedals, just looked now priced at $110+, depending on what space you have maybe look at some of the Nissan or Subaru pedals as they have metal stem which is easy to mod pedal angle/position if needed 

check out these 

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectID=90387&ViewAction=FacetedSearchProducts&SearchString=throttle+body&SearchButton=

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSPED

link  will run damn near any combo just need to  setup the calibration for the sensors,  some subaru/ nissan pedal  sensors are  a lever arm type so can adapt a standard pedal if needed

LS commodore stuff is pretty cheap too, I can get VE commodore pedal for about $90 new (similar mounting to the MSEL one) heaps of throttles available in various sizes

il  chech the wiring info iv got for the vt  cluster,  fuel input should just  be a hardwired input, does the level sender have its ground wired? I think they were 2 wire from memory

brown is charge light white is sense on a stock ls plug should be marked on the alternator too

the commodore alternator vt-vy with the mitsi/hitachi large plug  is the standard sense to battery and light terminal to ignition switched 12v via lamp or simulated resistor, vz ran a different ecu controlled regulator

  can probablly  pull some injector data from  an hp tuners file for a commo ls1 if that helps 

reverse lockout is simply  a solenoid ign 12v to one side ground switched the other in factory application unlocks under 5kmh , common way  is to  hookup to  brake light circuit so  have to put foot on the brake to  activate the solenoid switching +12v instead of ground

give me a call il flick you a pm with my number

main things to  look out for on  a donor car is knocking or ticking noises LS1 lifters are known to  tick  from about 150-180k on the clock (heads off job to replace), and what  does it drive like it should be fairly responsive and rev freely,  watch out for doughy or laggy  shifts in the auto,  clunks or long delay as it goes into  gear/ reverse check  trans fluid it should be nice and clean and not smell burnt,  dirty or burnt smell indicates burnt up clutches/bands,  dead o2 and knock sensors are common and will make the throttle response doughy

36 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

Ok, just checked online. I need a OBD2 I think. I see them on TM. Does anyone know if there are ones to stay away from or types to seek out for some reason? I'm getting one because I intend to purchase a running Ls1 powered donor car in order to ensure I have all of the parts the factory supplied. I want to be able to scan it prior to purchase plus I take it I'll be using the scanner once the engine has been transplanted in the future so is required' buying for me. Thinking aloud.

talk to trevor at holden diagnostics and get the SOE scan tool package,  its dedicated holden LS scan software,

4l60e are a but rubbish  in stock form  also know as box o neutrals  if its got a few ks on it or been given a tough life, the th700 is the 4l60e mechanical predecessor which is a 4 speed like the 4l60e,  mainly say that route as they had the transfer case options, some of the later chevy had 4x4 4l60e with an electronic control on it but are know to be problematic,  4l60e commodore box is fine if you just want rwd i think from memory  the 4x4 box has a different tailshaft and housing setup to rwd

If your gonna go auto look into using a th700 or even th350/400 from an early chevy blazer or Silverado 4x4 they have a transfer case on the back of the auto box, and will bolt up to ls block with a crank spacer for the torque converter, either commodore for front sump or f body camaro for rear sump boy retain oil filter as standard on the sump most the fabricated ones require external setup, iv done a heap of various ls stuff and lots of wiring and ecu setups if you got questions about what works 

have seen one done recently that i did the engine loom for, 2005  2wd no body lift needed

 tech post about changing the primary input resistor on the tacho input to the cluster, the sr will have a low voltage tacho drive and the tacho is expecting a coil negative collapsing voltage pulse,  this modo should get your tacho working,  done it to my VK from link g4 output   and a corona with 3sge beams ecu

49 minutes ago, Kimjon said:

These were on trademe, nz stock, so should have by Friday? Same price as Aliexpress but $10 freight, so about $60 for 2x sets including freight.

Repco and jaycar were like $30-$70 per fitting and I need 7 plugs, which adds up stupid fast!!

I found a few other shops selling them for around $30, but nothing really cheap.

The kits I brought were $25 per kit, and include about 20 random fittings per kit.

Considering I'm not working to NASA tolerances, I think these cheap plugs will be fine. I'll just try them and see.

thats crazy money for a DT connector, i can supply the 12 pin for $30ea, (my suppliers RRP is $37) downside is need special crimper for DT pins

flick me a pm with your rego (yes i know i sound like ripco/supertards but thats the way their online system is setup), il look up what pan pacific can supply thru my account.  Edit just realized OP from 2019, but offer is there of any OS people in need of auto elect parts

your gonna need one of the MSEL style crimp tools for those, the jaycar ones dont crimp the wire enough and over crimp the seal, results in wire falls out and seal breaks off

1 minute ago, h4nd said:

I've just realised, per ^ you have crimper for uninsulated. You want the one with the 'w' shape to fold the ends over. I have one of these, and it's OK https://www.jaycar.co.nz/crimping-tool-for-non-insulated-lugs/p/TH1834

those jaycar ones are ok iv got a couple but not the greatest for small terminals or small wire,

this is also  a very good japanese made crimp tool that does a wide range of open barrel  crimps  https://www.fishpond.co.nz/Lifestyle/Hozan-P-706-Open-Barrel-Crimper/9999511936801?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=ps&utm_campaign=NZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydH36NP87QIV2AkrCh3BpwtqEAYYASABEgIxbfD_BwE

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/TOOCRIDEL

this style for the brass tab terminals, even the basic ones from jaycar are ok  have a look around online can get them cheaper from the likes of amazon aliexpress etc, iv never found those generic ratchet style crimpers any  good alway  either too loose or deforms badly,  unless you  spend $$$ on rennsteig professional crimp tools and dies. would recommend looking into  deutsch  DT and DTM if you want sealed connectors

Hopefully that sorts the issue out with the miss firing, gotta love the Chinesium quality see problems all the time with the ls1 o2s and knock sensors 

I havnt used one myself, i tend to  build my own custom ones.  my  vk is custom front half re wired all moved under dash,  the generic one would prob be best as the us gm stuff is s bit different,  would recommend getting a decent open barrel crimper and brass terminals, de pin and reuse the connector housings for the like of ignition switch headlights etc inside the car i normally use basic unsealed connectors,  under car/engine bay  I prefer deutsch connectors,  weatherpack is another good option for sealed connectors 

Just now, flyingbrick said:

@vk327

i  was just reading this post,  stick to the known brands like painless there are some cheap knockoffs around,  they are the easiest way to  do  a rewire from scratch only thing worth addding is relays for heavy loads like headlights, grab a factory diagram  for the commodore and give it a go (dont just  cut  the old loom out may need to  trace out heater and wiper wiring)