vk327

public service announcement... don't waste your money on a fitech,  have worked with a couple of them and average results at best (stock efi performed better and started easier), there are far better systems available.

my personal preference is to retain port injection using something like a link atom if going for carby look throttle on top, but for a stockish motor hard to beat the stock efi for value for money does it job well. fitech is just  a carby with electrics doing the fuel metering instead of a metering block and jets still suffer all the same atomization issues carbys have with cold start etc and poor fuel distribution on a single plane manifold on a stockish motor.

haven't got the dimension on hand but BF falcon has a pretty decent single fan setup on the NA barras could possibly trim that down otherwise the maradyne & spals might be your best bet

I usually  find maradyne better value for money  over spal,  another option if your tight on space couple smaller 8-10" fans on the front of condenser offset if needed and a single 16" on the back for engine cooling, wire them up so  the ac fans could be plugged into the cooling controls if the 16" did have a failure

if you can fit it in a dual  fan from an oem car is a good way to go,   I use 2002 mondeo duel fans on both my commodore builds(pic in the barradore build) and an oem radiator and fan setup in the HQ. AU falcon and VT  commodore are both good easily  available options. Pickapart/zebra/wreckers are pretty  cheap  for a fan setup oem shrouded fans far outperform anything aftermarket,  with a bit of relay logic can have one setup for ac duty  and look at using a dual  stage thermo switch  to  stage them for cooling duties. 

can also  get some pretty  good maradyne and spal fans but $$ compared to an oem  setup if you  can fit it

been slow progress on this thing, got a massive stack of parts here I need to find time to  get going with,  damn pesky customer jobs getting in the way.

Scored these the other day and a mate delivered them from new plymouth 4x 15x10 centerline convo pros (2 are basically new) will go good with the other skinny ones I have for the front now to  find some 275 drag radials to mockup the diff gonna be a bit of cutting to the floor to make them fit 

standard rubber lined braid with an fitting on the reservoir and  these on the maser cylinder end ? https://nzkw.com/shop/hose-finisher/

Rb30s have gone silly have seen good runners out of VLs go upwards of $1500-2k, I remember paying a box of beer of them (10 odd years ago tho)

try  the guys at HCB batteries,  on arthur porter drive, will prob wanna sell you  a whole battery thru an account holder

3 hours ago, Adoom said:

Actually, this looks promising.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002602810952.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.257d6ddekfRGNd&algo_pvid=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47&algo_exp_id=d840d349-13ad-42b0-a9bb-c5aa26c06c47-11

be wary of chinese terminals on anything critical, have seen it several times after a couple cycles plugging in they lose tension and end up with bad contact as they are made of way thinner material than genuine ones, can really notice the difference with the Chinese LS looms from VPW and aeroflow  vs OEM even the connector bodies are made of sub par plastic and cant handle the heat of an engine bay and go real brittle, the old saying you get what you pay for, 

common terminals are pretty easy to  ID, GM  its all generally Delphi/Aptiv  metripack 150/150.2 or GT150, most japanese stuff is sumitomo, can generally  figure out parts crossover to RS from ballenger, waytek, eficonnection or nzefi listings 

highly recommend these if your ordering connectors from ballenger motorsports  get a couple, they work well for depinning most connectors

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/111_113/products_id/366

the key ring ones work well too just wear out quickly

got a list of a few places I frequent 

msel.co.nz

techflex.co.nz

bmotorsports.com

eficonnection.com

racespeconline.com

efihardware.com

having accounts with local auto electrical wholesalers means I can access a lot locally, but not easy to get in the door there.

also check out on facebook motorsport wiring alliance for tips and ideas, best advise practise on small thing like bikes and sub harnesses that  are easy to redo before diving had first into a whole engine loom

Braid sleeving always looks good and is quiet cost effective and easy to work with

split corrogate can look good, when its wrapped in tesa or hellerman loom tapes or just straight wrap in the cloth tape, would be worth investing in tooling to  use Deutsch connectors (basic ones are about $60) and a decent open barrel  crimper for OEM stuff Hozan p706/ p707 and a delphi weatherpack/metripack crimper work well , you can get every commodore v6 loom connector and pins new from EFI connection. com (except the ones that connect to the body).

its pretty easy to blow $$ on tooling iv got a few drawers full of differernt crimp tools but can get by with decent basics, have a look at my facebook page or my website for ideas of what looms can look like re sleeved or remade also  check out techflex.co.nz for braided sleeving the even have a wrap type braid that can look good, would suggest looking at  depinning tools for various pins can depin and slip sleeving on

havnt played too far with the v6 ecus myself but that looks like it should give you  enough headroom on the maf table, could possibly use the AC pressure sensor input as a way to input a wideband 0-5v and be able to log it if you can define your own parameters and calc like im able to with HP tuners for LS 

memcal based L67 ecu has the proper table resolution setup for boost and the control for the s/c bypass valve later L36 flash ecu can run it but will run out of map table with the boost cranked up

iv played with keeping the delco controlling the trans only, and results in average trans control (also need the factory ecu to keep the ABS and dash happy), the way the triggering/ignition work on the v6 makes it a bit of a pain to do piggyback with  an aftermarket ecu, would suggest looking into using an vy supercharged ecu convert to  an nvram  board to realtime tune with it, dunno why your having so many issues with crank  triggers they  are normally ok once replaced with a decent sensor unless the balancer is wonky and eating sensors or other wiring issue going on 

injectronics are the specialists in aus repairing vz ecus , absolute garbage bosch ecu (they burn up the tracks inside the ecu not really a diy type job on multi layer pcbs) to go with equally as junk rattletec engine, my tuner/programming  mate has replaced over 70 ecus in  vz v6s in the last 2 years

you'll probablly run into issues running the vy pcm on the l67, the vy pcm is pinned diffferently to the l67 pcm and the loom is different the l67 has the bypass valve control, as well as the l67 ecu has a larger maf table(and other boost related control), the NA vy pcm will likely max out its maf table (have had issues before with people running NA pcms on boosted v6s) if you can find one would be better off getting an NVRAM for the L67 pcm which enables live tuning on the memcal based ecu.

had to  revin our kingswood due to dodgy  plate/ tag mismatch  from 97,  we have owned the car for 5 years, VTAC were happy for me to  do  a declaration  with a JP that  i own the car, all proof/docs i had was relating to  the plates that didnt match the cars chassis/vin number, VTAC had sighted the car 1st tho 

all good im around most evenings and usually some of the weekends, il  flick you a pm with my  number

Im based in Hamilton, I can have a look at what it would need if you like, I run Custom wiring solutions part time. done a bunch of different stuff with link,  haltec and adaptronic ecus

5 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Probably anything with a Barra. So 2002-2003 onwards? Or ford territory too I guess. 

complete prick of a thing to get out have to drop the whole pedal box ,column and brake booster plus half the lower dash,  not the easiest to mount either recently pulled one out of a BF for my wagon build

6 hours ago, keltik said:

Have had to replace a Qashqai pedal and a Pulsar pedal recently.  Was pretty rare that we ever had to do a VE pedal - just lots of the v6 throttle bodies.  

Anything GM/LS makes life easy

Anything alloytec v6 onwards seems to be junk, the vz v6 ecus are total garbage, all the LS stuff is pretty reliable electronics wise 

Yeah pedal will typically be 6 wire, 2 potentiometers to give failsafe signals to ecu, throttle body is similar setup, normally common up +5v and gnd, so 4 pins for position and 2 for motor,  just need to go thru the e throttle setup in the link software to set the sensor slope, generally wired one upscale one downscale