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sr2

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Posts posted by sr2

  1. It's weird, other manual cars I've owned have had a stopper on a thread that you could wind in and out to adjust where the clutch pedal stopped. I had assumed this car would have a similar thing, but apparently not. Just the circlip that stops it. So i might have to craft something to stop it being banged out again

    The circlip is more than capable of holding the piston in place in the rest position, many cars used that system.

    At a guess the failure you experienced was from either incorrect initial assembly, corrosion, or (long shot) if it had been re-sleeved in brass. We re-sleeved  hundreds of them in brass at APCO Brake and Clutch in the 80's and there was the occasional failure from the circlip grove having been machined too deeply into the sleeve, ( the sleeve would fracture under the grove).  

     

    With older hydraulics rather than trying to rather than trying to buy a "kit", strip the unit  and find a good brake parts supplier that can match the parts. The Hunter "tin can" clutch master cylinder is a very simple unit and only has two critical seals.

    I'm Auckland based (Wellington has too many Politicians and too few businessmen for my liking) so can't recommend a local supplier but if you get stuck let me know and I can probably sort the parts out for you from up here.  

    • Like 2
  2. I don't think this was already suggested. Delete the factory booster with plate thing so you only have the master cylinder. And install a remote booster elsewhere.

     

    Look, the past! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20139-remote-brake-booster/

    With a dual circuit system the OP would need to fit two remote hydrovacs. Not only would this be a big step backwards in braking technology it would result in an overly complicated, less reliable system with reduced feel and driveability that would be at best described as a “bloody plumbers nightmare”. (No offence intended but I have had far too much experience with such systems in the past).

     

    My guess would be to relocate the battery to the boot (or rear foot well if it’s a competition car) and relocate the existing mastervac/master-cylinder assembly offset to the left in front of the strut tower. Have a look at some of the early Escort extended booster setups for inspiration.

     

    What can I say; absolutely love the car, love the project. 

    Shame you’re not closer to Auck.,  if I can have a good crawl over a car  I can usually figure the brakes. (Worked for PBR in Aussi in the late 70’s, APPCO Brake and Clutch in NZ in the early 80’s and have been building/co-driving Targa cars for the last 20 years).  Keep us all informed with your progress.

    • Like 4
  3. Nice! I fancy an old Vauxhall like this. I have a frind in Nelson who has two Vauxhall 'big' sixes parked on hios front lawn. Apparently one is a OK runner and does not need much work. Both around 1937 or so. I have asked him to give me one to fix up and his wife is well keen on this idea but he is a hoarder so it aint happening. I want an old car with running boards and this one the bonnet..

     

    P1040179_JPG.jpg

    Wow; they are as rare as rocking horse shit in NZ and he's got two of them!

    The Big 6 was rated at 20 RAC HP as opposed to the J14's 14 RAC HP. They were very classy cars in their day, you need to blackmail, bribe, intimidate, etc. your friend into letting you have one. 

    • Like 1
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