Toddy415

14 minutes ago, johnny.race said:

Get your shoes relined (if they are the correct ones that suit your drums etc)

I'm not really familiar with OEM 9" drum setups but I'd be guessing the guide thingy you are talking about would be the same in most of the other 9" drum offerings. They'd be side dependent though. Each side would mirror the other so you need to get the side you are after.

The 9" came with 3 different brake offsets as well as several different shoe widths. You'l be able to see straight away if the drums don't match the backing plates. The drums have that receiver groove thing going on with the backing plate. Furthermore, if the shoes look obscenely skinny compared to the drum then someones probably swapped them in at sometime during the past. You beable to see the wear pattern in the drum. They are designed to be all used' - if that makes sense.

There are 3 different bearing sizes and 2 different types. What have you got? Each of the 2 types have their own way of controlling oil leakage. If Hypoid (it is oil and not fluid, yeah?) then regardless of the bearing type - it all needs changing out. In one case the bearing contains the primary oil seal so must be changed as a unit and in the other - its seal has failed so allowing oil ingression that will lead to shitting your bearing (its supposed to be sealed) The main oil seal for this type will be located inside the axle housing.  The seal in/on the bearing is the last resort and is there to protect the bearing.

Chur.    

Whats the easyest way to confirm which bearing type / size I have? 

Question regarding 9inch drum brakes, my impala has a 9inch in it and took a look at the drums on it in the weekend. One shoe on each side had delaminated and were floating in the drum and one side is missing the guide for the adjusting cable so cable is just floating around. Now i have no idea what car the diff was out of so when ordering new shoes does it matter as long as I get the right size or are there variences in the shoes for different models? 

Second question is the current shoes are 2" wide but drums measure 2.5" is this normal to create tollerance or the wrong shoes have been put in? Was thinking 2.5" shoes in the 2.5" drums might be to tight? 

3rd question is there is a bit of grease seeping out into one of the drums how hard are these seals to replace? 

Cheers Michael

Does anyone know the correct amount to lap valves? I cant find consistant info or is it personal preference? Some i have found lap the entire face others just do a 2-3mm band around the face. Heads are cast iron off a big block chev. 

Cheers in advance

From last 2 car shows i went to

If someone else is paying to re paint your whole car you would be silly to not take it wouldnt you. 

Pew pew

Made it to lorneville a bit early haha heading to riverton shortly. 

4 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Unlikely for me. 

No worries if you cange your mind we are meeting a mate at lorneville just before 11. We are taking skyline as wagons got no warrent and mates taking his nightrod

https://m.facebook.com/488108934617483/photos/gm.1315286625290342/2268759793219046/?type=3&source=44 anyone heading along for a look tomorrow? 

Never mind its not this weekend its on the 19th

Riverton car show this weekend anyone heading out for a look

5 minutes ago, kyteler said:

You should have put the Gore picture at the top.. 

Much better now

1 hour ago, yetchh said:

 

Thats very out of step with the whole modified car /oldschool scene.. 

Not really have a decent look around OS not much worthwhile stuff is being posted these days. Lots of why would you lower your car, why would you increase its power, why would you put over 13" wheels on it. Don't log on for 2 or 3 weeks come back and nothings changed still the same people talking shit. Of course there is some decent stuff but this seems to be getting less and less.

31 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Seems strange. I've thrown Durepox onto greasy, shiny, and rusty old bits when emptying/cleaning gun out, and it has stuck fast every time...

Thats what I was expecting i might have to do test bits to find out whats wrong a bit annoying but better to find it now i guess. Im guessing its user error not a product issue. 

I cleaned mine up with meths as per instructions then wax and grease remover then applied epoxy primer. The epoxy is super easy to chip off / hasn't stuck very well at all so I am thinking I went wrong using the meths. I will try cleaning up using thinners instead next time.

4 hours ago, kyteler said:

I'll have a look when I get home for you man. 

Sorry dude, it's the bottom one that I have a spare of. 

 

I think its missing one cam retainer as well not sure how that went missing #shrugs shoulders

On 26/04/2019 at 17:39, mutiny said:

I figured someone on here may already know.  Guess I was right and the information may help someone else who reads this thread when they're making up their mind on the best way to get gas 

 

Cheers datlow. Legend

I am on this scheme as well, last time Bunnings was slightly cheaper (not down here though) but since it was the same supplier I asked if they could match the Bunnings price. They couldn't match it exactly but did give me better deal, dont think it was much but worth asking while your there.

We will head up on the sunday if nothing comes up busy saturday. 

How many people would really want to leave their cars there overnight these days, keen to find out more info. We will just be heading up for a day trip and im sure @kyteler will be the same if it still suits him.

3 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

IMO it will be a good idea to have a decent amount of droop in the FD. I did a shitload of R&D for my MX5 suspension mods last year and found that droop travel and good urethane bump stops are both key to good suspension for the road and track. MX5's are pretty limited in compression when slammed and I assume FD's are similar. Adding good bump stops and utilising droop travel are two tricks to maximise road holding ability. 

 

Your keeper springs will need be a bit open at full droop - just enough to allow for that extra 15mm of travel. You can buy keepers from 25mm up to 70+mm in length. 

I would recommend something like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/suspension-braces/listing-2000560762.htm?rsqid=f6b126ce4b604edab9abc14c8ddcb068

 

40mm uncompressed length, 15mm compressed length, 3mm retainers. This would give you loads of room for adjustment and more than enough extra travel. You'll need to drop your spring perches by an extra 18mm from where they are now to account for the compressed spring and retainer, so they'll work well as long as you have that adjustment available. 

Cheers man much appreciated

12 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

Good stuff. 

You can get keepers in a few different lengths. Get some that give you as much travel as you need with a little left over (so the keepers are always slightly compressed). This will give you more flexibility for ride height changes in the future and also means you can adjust your ride height from the spring perch, instead of the lower body. 

I was just about to ask the spring is only 15mm un captive it wont matter if the keeper is pretty much fully compressed even unloaded will it?

I guess i can adjust it all a bit anyway so its not fully compressed anyway.