crownin round

Hoping it was snagged by someone in here as I'd live to see more of it. Would not be surprised if Nathan got it.

Hey Clint thanks for the clarification on all that. While i get things all sorted I was hoping to do some stuff before I head back up north like the body mount and cutting my flares. I was thinking that i will need to renew my WOF in January a will not likely be done with the Cert. So i was wondering would I be able to get a warrant with the mount cut and welded or should i leave this to the last mods.

Thanks again Clint 

This is the method I would be using pretty much (Its the same as my hilux Chassis)

or this for more clearance from the tire.\

Yeh seemed great had a longer chat yesterday but think he was a bit flat out trying to get done for the weekend

Anyone have his email address. Just talked to him on the phone but hes flatstick. Bed to send him through some pictures.

Hey Clint, back on the adjustable arms idea i know you cant use the other main types due to welding to cast but is this design acceptable? it is fully forged cast not welded. https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpermalink.php%3Fstory_fbid%3D1171863636205511%26id%3D119135261478359&width=500

Id also like to run either a 30mm bodylift with no steering extension to save on buying this piece and having to extend intakes, fuel filler,vacuum lines, etc. This is the steering shaft slip yokes engagement at 30mm body lift.

Or run 50mm if that isnt alright there are 3 choices of steering extension.

http://shop.snakeracing.com.au/ifs-hilux-steering-shaft-extension/ But for some reason these are not allowed in some of Aus so not sure about here.

http://www.vehiclemods.net.au/vmn_steering_extension Uses extra factory toyota slip joint and extra bit of splined shaft

or using the idea from above cut the upper spline of an wrecked hilux and use this with extra slip joint essentially a VMN extension from the wreckers.

Would also like to fit larger tires but have never seen tire size on a placard so if i dont change rims from cert can i change tire sizes? ie il will be certed on 17x8s (to clear larger prado brakes) and 33s but want to eventually fit 35s am i allowed to swap or is it noted down? Otherwise i will fit the 35s first.

Also is cutting a hole in radiator support panel legal as I will be running intercooler piping through it. (about 3 inch holes)

To avoid scrub will also be trimming the body mount like so

I assume this is all good as i seen one certed and done before but his looked pretty ragged.

My struts are adjustable by changing the silver spacer shown below. Does this go on the cert plate even though its not thread adjustable?

Thanks feel free to ignore this as i know its not old school.

Sweet and on the topic can adjustable uppers be certed? Because if it needs a cert id prefer go this way. Thinong of something like these. http://www.fjc-mag.com/latest-news/spc-light-racing-launches-new-greasable-toyota-upper-control-arms

Or a cast design with adjusment like these. http://www.performancesuspension.com.au/4x4-suspension/p-toyota-hilux-prado-fj-cruiser-4wd-front-adjustable-upper-contol-arms-p-p-psrhil-012-p.html

Hey just a quick not that old school but do extended ball joints require certification. Iv got a wof twice before with them (vtnz and toyota) but my latest wof they want me to get a email/pice of paper from a certifier to say they don't need a cert otherwise I can't get passed? Just wondering about the logistics of it all.

Ps it's a press fit style ball joint. Made by Amada Extreme for a KUN26R Hilux.

Runva are pretty good. lifetime warranty that includes submersion which most even warn etc wont cover. Brothers one was so good iv just got one on the way it will be here next week. good price too. Had a supercheap one rip itself to pieces towing out the hilux the other day. Will try get a photo of it.

One on trademe rusty but surely be cheaper than bringing one over

http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=13694&start=30 this your post? seems the diagram is long gone. imma try figure it out but im a bit hopeless i can do it but need to learn a bit more when coming up with stuff myself.

If you want a better look. And the being able to go back to auto was for if i used the idea in my crown if i do an engine swap.

Ok so below is the basic circuit that has been used to manualise an h shifter and manualise a 12v automatic patrol. I want to know a few things. How would I calculate what size resistors to use in the unmentioned points down the bottom.

Pretty much it is on a switch that locks up the torque converter lock up and uses an electric foot switch to disengage it and shift gears.

I want to know how I would calculate what size resistors I would use in my 24v safari. It is the same trans but different voltage solenoids.

I really like the ability to run both auto and manual. I was wondering if something this simple could be adapted to be used with say a toyota trans or other trans all the time so that the use of a trans controlling ecu wasn't required.

Yeh I think iv seen it on ORE well not pics just a red one for sale. And would have but have a y60 seb safari now and she's doing me just fine for now. And already out of space at the flat. What engineering you doing. Iv got 2 more left on a civil degree.

Love this thing mate was gonna try buy a yellow one here in chch before I got my safari. Are you at th uni with it as I think I saw it there awhile ago when I was handing in a paper

Rt40!!!!

Hmm interesting maybe someone should correct him... it's a bit cheeky.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/959342148

Seller says it is a w55 4 speed. It is indeed and alloy cased box.

I didn't think w5x came in 4 speed options. Can someone recognise what this box is. Or is I a w55 with a fucked 5th gear possibly.

More interested than anything as to this gearboxs origins

Ps: if this is in the wrong thread can an administrator shift it.

haha found it through google and wondered why i hadn't seen it before. could hardly drive when this was done.

what happened to the pics

A question on revin. I am looking to revin a car and it has some bad rust. But it's mainly in the rear end around the taillights. There is also some in the bottom of a door and the sills.

Also at some pint someone has jacked it next to the jack point and dented the chassis not bent or anything just dented. I kind of want to remove these bits and put it new steel but will that require repair cert etc.

Will I need repair certs for the rust work and will I be fine to fix the dents on should I leave them.

Went to veiw today was nowhere near as straight as it looked. It was very solid looking sills have been replaced at some point.no expanding foam in rear quarters but polystyrene so no rust there. Little things like rear seat not bolted to ground and doesn't fold down put us off as what good is a wagon that you can't sleep in

It's on trademe it's in Chch it's green

It's a 1979 mk4 btw