bobdylan

Thanks. Seemed too good to be true.

I can get a 6 point cage from palmside for the fxgt for $500+gst. Does anyone know a cheaper place that does just as good job?

Want a 6 point approved cage.

My car today at 2500rpm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/117293653@N07/12474935533/

No idea but i am guessing no and i should shut up now.... op my bad didnt click it was rwd

I can do somethings but electrics confuse me

Does anyone know if in an ae82 the lights have a relay stock?

So the dash is almost ready and we are moving onto the switch panel for low beam, high beam, indicators, hazard, fan and fuel pump.

What amp ratings do i need as minimum in the Toyota to run the lights/indicators and hazards? I have found some 3amp ones which look ok but i know nothing about electrics.

^^ go on as i have heard many people say the that unless you go wild with power over 190 the stock ones are best

If the aftermarket guages Will occupy the same space and are not forward of the stearing wheel that's fine isn't it?

Yeah but i need to find out a clear yes or no. cause if its a no i need to find a working dash unit.

But i read the online wof requirements but could not find anything. Maybe its covered in the asseser one.

What are you doing for a speedo?

Generation 1 apex RSM uses a sensor so is legal.

I had just finished removing the dash cluster and about to start to replace it with the alloy panel when my cousin (who is a wof inspector) said that unless the car retains its stock cluster its not going to get a cert or a wof as it must remain stock. Read the wof requirements but could not find anything. please can someone shed some light on this for me? I think i have just wasted money on my race-looking dash instrument cluster.

I have a strange question. Do you need to keep the stock gauge cluster to get a wof? Was told if i remove it and replace with autometer gauges i need a moyorsport licence? Any one can shed some light on this?

Bling this is what i mean.

Example one:

Example two:

Not sure which I prefer. What one do you all like?

That's a pretty good price. Thanks for that

They look better. How much did they cost?

Nah bling you all good i can't explain myself well enough to get my point across. My stock gauges don't work, rev gauge gets to 1500 and sits there, water temp doesn't work, fuel gauge is high on its own fumes.

Currently am running defi gauges (oil pressure, temp, water temp and a 5inch autometer tach) in pods on the dash.

Priced up new gauges but tbh can't be bothered fitting otherones. So measured the gap in the dash, used the carbord method and got a peice of alloy cut to size and cut some holes for the water temp and oil pressure and tach. This will replace the stock cluster. However stock warning lights work so thought for low fuel, too hot and low oil can mount 3 led lights. Make it look like a race car and it would fit the stripped interior and half cage.

Yep Yellow, Green and Red. There may be a Blue too.

We just used them for oil and shift.

Not sure who else stocks them.

Did you just run them from your stock dash warning lights? It coped with the larger led fine?

That's perfect. its for shift light, oil pressure low, water temp high and check engine light.

do they sell different colours? Can i get anywhere cheaper?

They are a little small. Need to be bigger

Free shipping? Nice. How do you get the ones with free shipping?

After some toggle switches too.

Not sure can't seem to get a price.

online stores in Australia have them for $9.70 each.

I would prefer led over incandescent if possible.

Yeah but shipping is more than unit price.

Can anyone here get cheap Hella gear I am after Hella 2718 (amber warning lights) for my dash conversion but can't seem to find them at a decent price. I will need 5 of them

My 2c (please ignore if i am wrong)

hks 4-1 vs trd vs stock 20v (blacktop) the stock headers are morebeffective and make more power. Toyota did a very good job with them and unless you are making over 210hp na you don't need to change.

I did a lot of research when building the exhaust for 82 and everytime the same question was asked the dyno results showed the slightly larger blacktop headers were the best by far. So hit up bling or someone with a blacktop for sale, buy the headers and you will be sweet.

The hks 4-1 uses 768mm primaries. And are designed for 7,000rpm plus on a stock 4a will loose you power. If they are guiniune hks ones they are very rear. Most ones are copies (pretty much all are). You could get some good money for them.

Ah I see.

Mine has the G sensor, but I has no instructions to figure out how to use all it's functions. (Like removing the speed cut)

I have the instruction manual for the gen 1 & 2 ones. pm me your email and i will send you the pdf