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Posts posted by piazzanoob
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I know there is a NGK book but I'm unsure where you can get them maybe BNT repco partmaster autostop could be the go.
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What I would do before you go and buy new rotors when you might not even need them is take your rotors into BNT or any brake shop that does brake maching and get them to measure them up if they are still machinable or not as getting them machined it's about half the cost of new rotors or less.
And if there not machinable they then have a sample of a rotor so then they can't give you the wrong parts.
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+1 for C-plus pads from BNT my work uses them all day every day and We have never had any comebacks on them great pads stop good and low dust.
And get your rotors machined as well like ^^ he said.
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I know you've had a wheel balance and alignment done but often people miss to check your tyres so make sure your tread is evenly worn as if a tire is not worn evenly it will cause a shake/shudder.
I'm not experienced with old cars but I'm a mechanic so I deal with these problems all the time so I could have a look at it for you if you wanted to.
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Had a bit of a look around and found this http://m.summit racing.com/parts/sum-sbckit1-000 But when I talked to the guy at American parts service centre Ltd in Onehunga behind Firestone he said that kit will be made from rubbish metals and from China or somewhere and get you nowhere and he reckons most of sta parts for chev is rubbish also which I Think is true pay cheap get cheap as he knows his stuff and been doing it for years So yeah I don't really have any budget as such to how much I wanna spend but I don't want to be putting rubbish parts in as well.
So does anyone know of any good engine part brands or any local shops who sell good parts ?
Cheers
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Not much of an update but pulled the flex plate and water pump and front timing cover off.
And also scored a new engine stand from just round the corner from home to get the engine off the ground.
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The running rough side of things is sometimes a symptom of a blown head gasket perhaps try a teekay test to see if it has or not.
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I sell the brand kumho at work and have never had a comeback on them and they seem to grip well although they won't be cheap as most of those cars with small 13s etc usually just have cheap branded tyres fitted on them.
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So it all started with zebradude posting up his 350 chev up for sale as he had no use for it and me seeing it thinking I needed it in my life so with parents giving the okay with taking up more room in the shed I ended up with this
So all it come with was a Holley carb alternator and trans
Also come with a trans which is good.
Details are that its had water in the bores and is seized and been sitting for 4 years.
So straight after getting it and putting it in the shed I set about trying to turning the motor over and then realised it needed the heads off to inspect the bores.
Heads off
Then saw this and thought ot ohh
So after I gave it a quick clean out i got my can of inox gave the bores a flooding then got my powerbar out and tried trying it over with some success
After about five minutes of turning the the engine in small movements I finally got the engine to turn over from top to bottom but not without hearing the noise of rust grinding off the bores.
So now the plan is to give the motor a full rebuild maybe some Aliminium heads some cams but still unsure and get a electronic dizzy and starter motor and get her running and then with either sell the engine or find a rolling body to put it into.
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A few years ago there was a guy in East tamaki that would fill gas bottles and there was no swapping bottles or any hire bottle fees etc does this ring a bell to anyone? Will try and see if he is still going and where he is located.
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Just a thought why don't we get a bit of fabric or something and get it painted in a retro look with so it goes with a retro oldschool theme perhaps thoughts?
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Hey guys ive got myself a Isuzu piazza as a project car
specs: 1984 2 litre G200z SOHC Engine fuel injected
everything standard
pics of when i got it:
* old owner painted the two rear alloy wheels and rocker cover silver why? stupid idea
bought it in may 2012 with no wof or rego with the intention of a quick 6 month fix up/tidy up job for a wof
but nooo
done a hanger bearing in it for wof had to cut it etc for it to fit
then found out both front and rear windscreens leak and broken window plastic holder so window wouldnt stay up
so then i took it to a mates and washed all the oil from under car and engine bay and ended up putting it in their storage shed
where it still remains
then i figured as windows need to come out and different coloured gaurd cos old one had rust and dent i should paint it and after mucking around for 6 months getting quotes etc i decided to do it myself to do a proper job as it had some rust that needed to be treated in some places.
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still got this car?
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Name: Dylan
Location:South auckland
Cars you own:1984 isuzu piazza x1 and a half and mazda 323 wagon FWD daily
Mods to them: none atm
Link to pics: will add one when figured out the forum
How you found out about oldschool: just came across it on the internet
Anything else you want to add: Old is Gold
Piazzanoob's chev 350 project
in Other Projects
Posted
Update have spend the afternoon stripping the rest of the motor down.
It all started off with draining the oil so I pulled the sump bung off and for about 5 seconds all that came out was water then big clumps of oil and water that had mixed together into lumps would pop out every minute or so with the black oil that also came out.
url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=xjdfjqsh.fyi.jpg][/url]
So then I pulled the sump off which had been modified to fit in a bmw as to what Zebradude told me but the worse thing with the modified sump is that it has no dip stick.
Then I came across this
url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=knaut24j.rjz.jpg][/url]
So that white stuff you can see on the pickup and bottom of sump is what I had coming out when I was draining the oil.
Then while I was on the job of removing the rod end caps and crank caps I noticed that each cap and also the rods had been hit with a dot punch to say what cylinder they were off so now I know that some has rebuild this motor once before.
url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=rwb3arpy.s24.jpg][/url]
So after removal of the Pistons&rods crank cam and timing chain I found the block still seems to be okay and that the bearings still have plenty of life left in them all the rings seem to be intact and look alright crank has no marks or wear and also the cam still looks good but I'm also assuming it's standard as it has no numbers or brand stamped onto it.
The bores however have some rust on them I think I may get away with just a good hone but will take all the parts and get them measured to see what I need and what's still good.
Then the last thing I had to get off was the oil filter but with doing the engine at home I have limited tools but I tried polygrips and that was a no go so screwdriver is was
url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=i4enoo1f.a2h.jpg][/url]
If you have a look at the photo above ^ this one notice on the left hand bottom corner that when I tried undoing the filter with a screwdriver that it had torn quite abit before it started undoing.
So with now the engine stripped i just need some time to go take it down to the engine shop to get everything measured.