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Tumeke

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Posts posted by Tumeke

  1. If you just want a quick fix try your luck at Zebra U Pick. They have a few Lasers and shocks are $20 each. I'd then suggest getting some new ones for next time from Rock Auto (US). Cheap as chips, just take a while to get here.

    • Like 2
  2. Awesome! Love to old style tank! Cheap rego too.

    I have a 197? B120p. It doesn't have the old style tank...(sadface)

    Seems like ebay has all the goodies available including old style tanks. Some are a bit pricey of course, but keep and eye out I reckon. 

     

    Wonder if I can just put one of my 50cc rego and plates on it..... Hmmmmm

  3. My bach compressor (1960s probably and certainly not industrial) automatically turns off the mighty Briggs and Scrap-Iron at a pre-set PSI. It then automatically re-starts (air starter) when drops below a second pre-set PSI. Hope this helps? I'd have to pay more attention to it when I'm at the bach next time if you need more info.

    • Like 1
  4. There's always some trepidation about the first time you get a WOF check on a car, however my local is pretty sympathetic to older tin and always show me why somethings failed/broke/smells.

     

    They know I'm going to do the work myself so it's not about money making and they always let me know what I should keep an eye on before next time before it turns into an issue which is nice.

     

    This time, I could clearly see the front left shock was rooted though and I really needed to sort this for a WOF.

     

    Funnily enough, Super snipe shocks aren't off the shelf anymore. Repco hasn't heard of a Humber (or a shock probably)

    Speedy Spares in the UK has them, but I wanted them now and cheap and stuff.

     

    Anyway, after a bit of asking (Thanks Mr Pog etc) and a bit cross referencing I discovered that Mitsubishi L300 front shocks should fit the holes.

     
    post-17073-0-08768900-1473908445_thumb.jpg

    Old vs new

    Part number for those playing alone at home is Monroe 15-0251 GT Gas W/- Reflex.

     

    Reasonably painless job to pop them in, WOF passed and life is good. Shit got a birthday and did them both (or cause they come in a pack of two?)

     

    post-17073-0-63424000-1473908444_thumb.jpg

    Although not easily noted there is a Kamahl LP on the back parcel shelf for next time I see Threeonthetree.

     

    Notes before next WOF are: Prep and paint surface rust underneath, clean up the brake lines and find some newer looking seat belts - all pretty achievable I reckon.

    • Like 9
  5. Winter is cold and stuff but luckily I have a heater that works - however warm air only comes into the cabin at over 60k's as the fan ducting was half missing and what was left was full of holes. 

     

    post-17073-0-77253000-1469436583_thumb.jpg

    Original ducting (only 1/4 of what was needed)

     

    Humber - in their wisdom -  decided the best place for the fan is in the right front guard. Um. Anyway, if it was good enough for the Rootes group I guess i'll keep that for now. Ducting therefore from factory came up into the firewall distributor box and into the cabin from there.

     

    post-17073-0-03066300-1469436579_thumb.jpg

    Thanks Bunnings. $20 AND It's a proven reliable solution that will last at least three years. (cause it says so on the box eh?)

     

    post-17073-0-52568400-1469436582_thumb.jpg

    Looked a bit shiny and there's no need for that

     

    post-17073-0-22586700-1469436581_thumb.jpg

    So a can of matte black, couple of cable ties and close enough. (end to be tidied)

     

    Turned it on and it sucked. Literally. Then remembered to reverse the polarity of the fan motor... Ahem. Negative earth now eh...

    Boom. As good as factory (i.e. pretty average) but job done.

     

    • Like 6
  6. Made the pixies go electronic today with some electronic points.

    Lesson 1 - don't always trust the manual. Humber workshop manual suggests that I have a DM6 distributor, however it's a 25D6. This is a good thing as it means I can also update the cap to a push-in type rather than the old acorn screw in type in the future meaning hopefully I can find some new leads that will fit down the deep holes. I'll need to scope out something like DOHC sockets as the current system relies on lead lead holders as seen here.

    post-17073-0-44849000-1469347825_thumb.jpg

    Excuse the timing light lead running across the bottom right.

     

    http://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/ seem to have a good range of stuff for British cars so I grabbed a Powerspark electronic ignition system from them.

    No distructions came with it, however, i pulled down the old one, cleaned it, ripped out the points and condenser and put in a plastic bag that lives in the boot (just in case)

    Then slapped the unit with some heat-sync paste and using the existing screws into place, dropped in the blue trigger and put the rotor back on. Wiring is pretty simple - black to negative / red to positive on the coil. I also put a new earth into the dizzy as the other one was a bit sick.

    post-17073-0-84279600-1469347823_thumb.jpg

     

    Took it for a drive. Ran like a pig. Found timing was out by about 3 weeks. Re-timed and runs pretty well. Seems to be a bit of hesitation up high, but them pulls through it. I'm not blaming the kit for that yet - the leads and plugs are pretty old, as is the coil, so i'll have another play when I find more toys.

    • Like 4
  7. So I owe Tumeke a blowie or something, he has scanned the complete manual to pdf for me, what a GC.

    A wristie will be fine. Document scanner-feeder at work so not too much drama. You've inspired me to do a blog of my tank so I'll start one this weekend after i put electronic points in it or something - weather/beer dependent.

    • Like 1
  8. Workshop manual is a genuine Rootes Humber one. About a million pages. Pretty comprehensive so happy to scan off whatever you need for whatever but copying the whole thing will require slave labor.

     

    I've acquired an overdrive unit for mine (3 speed manual) and am after a front drive shaft to put it together rather than butchering mine if it all turns to shit. Apparently there are three different lengths - Manual, auto & manual with O/D...

    So looking for either an O/D one or something I can shorten.

     

    I'll keep an eye out for another workshop manual in my searches too. Bloody handy. 

     

    I'll take some pictures when it's not so dark and then figure out how i'm meant to put them on here...

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