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Ghostchips

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Posts posted by Ghostchips

  1. The silver coating does tarnish over time if exposed to weather much like those plastic chromed badges on modern cars fade.  Still, probably not bad value for money if you don't scrape it (like i scraped my chrome vinyl bumper hitting neighbors trashcans)

     

    For real chrome i heard a place in otahuhu does good work but you have to pay a bit for it, if that's any help to you.

  2. unburied thess in my storage shed last week .

    ute probably should be in left to rot, if i can find my photos from picking it up, it will be posted there.

    DSC00041-1.jpg

    originally bought this purely for the running gear, but after the 2 foot of snow melted, it wasn't a bad shell, till i got it !!

    DSC00039.jpg

    Is that ute an holden?  If so let me know if it is for sale i know someone who wants one like that.

  3. Think i did that once, had to file the little notched things & beat the old ones out, then pressed the new ones in with a vice (broke the vice at the end of the job) and while i saw someone had welded washers on the ends of one driveshaft i took apart to keep the cups in, which would make later replacing easier i think that looks rangi, as does welding the cups.  Maybe using a cold chisel to stake them in a few places could work but as i never tried that on such a modern car the cups might move & the balance would be wrong.

  4. If engine flush is basically kero' & diesel fuel is a really dirty oily kero' with flame retardants then the old pour diesel in the oil an hour before you change it trick might work to loosen up crud.  In the old days there was a "drain oil, fill with kero' & run it for a few seconds then drain & fill with oil" trick but that would seize things up nowdays.

  5. Only reasoning for electric windows was because people in my car keep breaking the window winders and I'm running out of spares.

    Central locking and an alarm are definitely on the cards. Any luck with Tardem-spec alarms, project isn't quite taking #1 priority at the moment, but surely something is better than nothing!

    Make some metal ones? (tried this myself, spent 2 weeks of evenings with a needle file & a chunk of alloy, not everyones idea of fun) or buy new friends that are kinder to your car. (bad ideas)

  6. Is this even the place to ask this?  So i sold a DX for less than $200 a few years ago.  Now it is up for sale again (road legal this time) for $3,000 in worse shape than when i had it & i crashed it twice so i know it is rough but now i have the skills to restore it, but not the time or money, still i want it back.  Been around the clock twice.  Is it way over priced?

  7. ^this ain't about '70s cars though and not even 80's cars. If you discount classics and 'special interest' vehicles then theres not much pre 1990 stuff around to worry about.

     

    Theyre talking about late 90's cars as being old, unsafe and polluting lol. 14 years old = 1999

    My daily is older than '99 and it runs clean and safe!  Has weird brake controller that makes the peddle pulse and fight back when i try to do sliding turns too...

  8. Just think of all the energy and resources it takes to make a car, you would think scraping a going car to make a new one with more plastic and shit would be even worse.

     

    If i were a manufacturer i would try to provide ungraded parts for the old cars, keep your old shell and get retrofit-able fuel systems, brakes in 3 different flavours, newer seats & seatbelts if you wanted, Newer engines and transmissions that fit a whole range of older products.

    BMC & Ford actually did this as far as brakes & engine / body panels & grills.

    • Like 2
  9. That 616 is definatly worth saving!!

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with that poor poor car abit of thinking and a metal gluer can't fix!

    I'm keen for a mazda recovery road trip..

    Do it, rust can be fixed, i should know! Can take a while.

    (which reminds me i have 2 or 3 cars with floors to replace & no money for the welding supplies)

  10. Did this a few months ago, they stuffed me around for months.

    If you ask the people that do the VIN inspection you will get 100 different answers but basically if you can show the pix of the restoration to a judge, get him to sign something to say you own it (I.D.K. what it is called but the judge should know) find any chassis plate numbers and if you can get the police to say they have no interest in the car then you trailer it to some VIN VTNZ type place and they will want to look inside the doors to see if the side impact beams are bent (if they do tell them they never had side impact beams) one even wanted to look for rust, inside a wooden door, made of wood....  then they should rivet a VIN tag on the firewall somewhere and give you some plates to put on it and some paper work & you hand over a bunch of money (like $500) and drive away.

     

    So yeah if you get that paper stuff together you should be fine. Hope that helps

    • Like 2
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