M.H.

27 minutes ago, SHGWAG said:

So I'm going to sell the block, and all accessories including ECU & Loom etc and run with something else.

Ls1?

1996 Nissan Primera P11 2.0 manual, 150,000km

Bad points.

Horrible driving position, im only 182cm tall and even with the seat right back me knees were bent,

Hand brake digs into your left leg

Uncomfortable seats

Shit interior layout

Steering had no feel

Clutch had no feel and it would stall as soon as the clutch would start to engage

Sloppy suspension

Lots of road noise

Rev counter didnt work

A/c didnt work

Had to rev it out to get anywhere

Engine mounts were stuffed

Chain rattle on startup

Good points

Could do 100km in 2nd

Would not recommend one for anyone over 5ft, seriously the worst car I have ever driven

Whats the difference between whats in there now and an ecotec?

Time for lpg?

With a lpg system can I install it myself and then just get a lpg wof or does it have to be done by someone certified?

Are brake line locks allowed? 

A w200ax whipple would be good on a m117/9

28 minutes ago, Testament said:

no.

 

M119 + 88mm choocher

No

M120

There is a w140 s600 at turners dva. Wish I had gone with a m120 over the m119 

Is there any reason you are keeping the egts so low?

750°c is pretty much max constant, hitting 800-850°c for a moment is ok

37 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Diesel engines are a bit of voodoo to me. Lean is cool, and rich is hot?  

Are they as sensitive to intake temperatures as petrol engines? Say you crammed 14psi into an LD28 at 59C, and bumped the fuel pressure as far as you could without running engine destroying egt's, would that same egt be achievable with more fuel if the intake temp was brought down to say 25c?

Basically. More air means you can burn more fuel until you reach the limits of how much the pump can deliver and how much the injectors can flow with out the injection window becoming too big

How many cc/1000 shots can the pump deliver?

1 hour ago, Firetruck said:

I have used a variable vane from a 1KD on my 3L. Just used a standard boost actuator to control it which worked kind of well. It was a bit surgy at lower throttle since it was trying make full boost all the time but tweaking the vane stop screw got it to an acceptable state.

For vnt's to work properly they need to be controlled electronically. There a few designs using an arduino out there

1 hour ago, drftnmaz said:

Anyone else use variable vane turbo's on their diesels? I use a garrett gt2056 with 1.0 housing on my td27+T with actuator to control the vanes, Works quite well, want to compound charge next but worried about small shaft size of little turbo so probably change to gt3063 as the small turbo and hx40 as big

The gt2056v is too small for a 2.7l. A gt2260v would be better. I was going to compound turbo my land rover, 2.5tdi. Use the orginal turbo and them something like a gt2860,  Would be good for over 400nm by 2000rpm. But ive since decided to go with an Isuzu 4bd1t

Compound turbos

47 minutes ago, Giant said:

has anyone here run water meth in a diesel?

Just get more air into it, water meth should be a last resort to control egt

3 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Drove this to Tauranga with my heavy tandem trailer and found the water temp would climb on long hills unless you are in 4th or even 3rd. 

EDIT: EGT's were still well under 600deg pre turbo.

EDIT 2: An intercooler joiner blew off some time after Taihape. Duct tape fix.

Its a brand new (well a few 1000km ago) triple core copper/brass upgraded one made in the UAE for like I don't know, deserts or sand drags? When I fitted it, the water temp would sit rock solid at below half way no matter what I did, even towing the same trailer with a rolling body 200sx on it.

So I'm pretty sure its because I haven't removed the w2a radiator which will be restricting air flow to the radiator and A/C condenser. With the A/C on the temp would climb on hills, with it off the temp would be ok unless really letting it work hard in 5th. On the flat it doesn't move, so I think having a 3rd radiator in front is the problem which makes me glad I went for a top mount interheater.

Maybe a FMIC wouldn't block so much?

On the way home it was getting dark and colder, and with out the A/C on it wasn't a problem.

Another conclusion is that towing about 1500kg it doesn't have enough power, I've barely added any fuel so hopefully the standard 10mm pump can provide enough.

 

 

 

Did you replace the thermostat? You shouldnt be able to overheat it only towing 1500kg.

I have had the barrel and head vapor blasted so had thought of just leaving them raw and just using 2k on the crankcase, side covers and rocker cover. Just dont know how long the vapor blast finish will last

3 hours ago, kdotlowe said:

This worries and interests me as my current bike build is all painted with VHT Engine Enamel....

I used the flame proof paint, but anything out of a can is going to have no chemical resistance 

I had my land rover set so it would get to 750°c pre turbo

550°c pre turbo isnt even hot

This looks like it would work, just need to find a nz supplier

https://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-temp-engine-paints/engine-paints.html

I have had some parts for it done in ceramkrome from procoat but I dont realy want to have to split the crankcase apart so would rather just paint it

Does anyone have any experience with a 2k engine paint? I painted the engine of my xr600 with vht high temp paint and it was shit, cured it as per the instructions but it has zero chemical resistance and wasnt very hard. I want to paint the crank case and rocker cover matte black and the barrel and head aluminum silver. Its an air cooled engine so will see temps of 150°c occasionally,  

Supercats are scary in the wet