h4nd

.PNG is a good format for drawings, it compresses without blurring the edges.

Looks pretty good pic.(not +ve earth like Morrie which would have generator not alternator ?)

edit: wow, nice work on this old beastie!

editEdit: Might be possible to separate the trafficator stalk solenoid from the lights, and put a blinker on the lights? (will need to check / limit the current in the solenoid, might need a big fat series resistance, or a current limiting switch mode power supply)

That's awesome ... totally needs buttons to do a shred.

Did you set it up at 4pm?

Have at. I guesstimate it'll work fine/better with that, or no resistor at all. (more RF noise, more spark duration). From memory ign Rs are kinda 10  or 20ish k Ohm?

Yep, but Digikey far and away has the best part selector, and delivers in consistent (moderate) timing. 

Mouser is good for x-checks against all the above, good for certain parts.

Ordered from Element14 (last night), they were claiming overnight delivery from Sydney if ordered  before 6:30pm.  BUY NOW!      DHL just chimed in to say, yeah, nah, Thursday good bro?

Suckered.

I just used KiCAD to knock out a sneaky little facia plate thingy, will see if the DXF export suits Anton's CNC import process

KiCAD. Spent 20 years using protel 98, am pretty quick with the built up muscle memory. KiCAD is  now good enough, has good and improving libraries, and is free. ( @chris r )

These are 10A, there's others.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002338207839.html

Stand by charging (float) for e.g. house battery, with a top up setting for occasional Boost / equalise to help prevent sulphation.

This is a cheap crude approximation that's likely better than most single Voltage only chargers.

There's actually quite a lot of detail in charging batteries, including

• Different V, A for different types
• the correct voltage changes with temperature.
• Boost equalise time can depend on how discharged it was before charging
• etc

YMMV

The placement of the ammeter is an illustration which measures battery current only, so if the battery is charged, most of the current goes straight to the load (meter reads low current).

Speaking of getting amongst the misery, @governorsam, you still got that 'leccy scooter lurking around?

Have someone lined up, thanks @ajg193 for the reccomendation.

Oh, and 2T nangs, because company policy.

Hi all,

I'm a bit overloaded to get stuff out for end of month:

I have some light fab, electrical needs doing for a couple of days. I'm making a (mostly 12V) control sets, and need it copied 2x.

It's just 'copy this', find tools and have a go setup for the mo. Prefer someone who can do the self employed (pay own tax to IRD, it's easy to set up), but flexible.

You need to be safe with tools, and reasonably handy with stuff. $30/h ish?

Unlimited coffee. PM / TXT 0-- --- ----

Wayne / h4nd

This thread to include those new-fangled 'leccy motorcycles?

As I was wombling back to the office in the Dai, I just saw a bike which lane splitting past...

It looked like a 70's scrambler, but was quiet (4stroke?), maybe blue / white (Suzuki) and had a hyuuuuge balloon rear tyre with knobbly kinda tread.

It's looked pretty friggin rad, actually.

Any clues?

Ohhh, no no no no.

My list contains better than new spec top-o-the line Nichicon or better caps.

... unless you're implying the new China heads are all that?

I made a spreadsheet of good quality replacement values  

Anyway, I should really stop shitposting here and get the hell on with some work

3 hours ago, cletus said:

That's a miniscule plug gap, is that what it's meant to be?

'Sposed to be gapped to about 0.65mm, I squeeze em up to about 0.5mm, the spark hangs for longer (I think, I should actually measure that).  because oil etc makes high resistance conductnance path, so the energy in the inductor (ign coil) dissipates quicker? 

Don't the supercharger / turbo lads run 'em closer, because more air, better insulator? Or just install Kill-o-zap systems like pics above?

I put some clean(ish) ones in and nipped them up to about 0.6mm by eye, and it chortled off to the redline again.

That's odd

I seem to have most of a set of caps here for refreshing a 1KZ ecu.

Madness

I'll see how the 2 notches hotter plug goes 1st

I seem to recall some detonation last time.

Oof, iforce went away, i'll have to dig up the earlier pics.

BP4ES, (now), was standard BP6ES.

It's leaking coolant (I think) around the head gasket which is also pooched, and I think it's also running oil rich. so no real surprises there. Keep 'em spares in glovebox.

One of these Satuday afternoons i'll shufty the good (rebuilt) motor back in there.