chris r

9 hours ago, fuel said:

Long time lurker in this thread, but I am looking at purchasing a 2005 Lancer Evolution IX Wagon here in Canada, hanging onto it for a while here and then eventually bring it back to NZ with me in a few years time. It's fairly tidy but unfortunately it was auction grade R leaving Japan with a repair to the right rear quarter panel. Looking over the car it looks like the repair was done well and it's not overly obvious, but at the price that it's at (roughly a third of what an equiv one in NZ is listed for right now) I am seriously looking into it because it's one of my bucket list cars.

One question is, when I eventually bring it from Canada to NZ would the prior Japanese auction history be visible to the NZ border despite the car coming via Canada? I would want to tidy up the repair to the point that it's not detectible at all. Another question is, would a 2005 Lancer Evo be eligible to import into the country these days? Being out of the country 11 years now, I'm not even up to date with the import restrictions and regulations. 

 

Thanks all!

I'd say just bring Canada paperwork/proof it's yours and plead ignorance with jdm r grade stuff. 

I don't know/imagine they'd have any access to jdm auction stuff 

/barry out

3/4 ain't bad. Mains and rods torqued to spec and it spins freely which is good 

More spaghetti 

Turned it into this. Vtec wire re run and run the reverse light wires 

That's all I can do on the loom until I get the motor/box into the car. Those rings are holding up the process a fair bit 

bolt box came up a winner

bit of angle grinder/drill action and we are all good

crv hard line even fits pretty good

got correct rod bearings and clearances are what they are so I'm gonna send it

Assembles the rings onto the pistons, I lost my good ring compressor so grabbed a cheapie.... And paid the price. tap tap, piston feels a bit stuck so back it out and try again

Will have to order another ring set now which has ripped my undies

More clutch schenanagins 

Circlip didn't want to come out nicely 

The rod is a bit longer 

But not long enough 

Will rummage around in the bolt box tomorrow and see if I can find one long enough to barry to suit 

Fitted main bearings and crank today

Cheap and cheerful one size fits all rock auto bearings are within spec which is nice

Smidge bigger than 0.02 which is factory spec ish so that's a win 

Will do pistons/rods/arp rod bolts tomorrow. 

Attempted to fit oil pump today and managed to mangle that seal. Luckily I ordered another by mistake with my last amayama order so that should be here next week 

Not shit oil fitting arrived 

Openings for the oil feed are actually at the top of the fittingand are open and not obstructed 

Past me loctite the fittings into the shit sandwich plate so they'll need to get warm to be taken out. Hopefully they aren't complete chinesium and strip on the way out 

Modern daily meet? 

37 minutes ago, Raizer said:

It's all ready for a couple coats of paint now, trying to decide between pink or purple, might go with both.

Pink plz with purple highlights on the Honda 

Sold crv today. Turners cash now ftw. 

Super easy process and zero drama on my end. So so much better than trademe 

Gave the pistons a bath in simple Green and exoff

Before on bottom and top after the first soak 

Bit of scotchbrite and a pick for the ring grooves 

Figured out the shift lights on the orthia/crv. Had to do some modifications to the indicator so it doesn't need the ecu/module doesn't need to be there 

https://i.imgur.com/u8MT9Mv.mp4

Inhibitor wired up 

https://i.imgur.com/ghxEWGn.mp4

On 11/05/2022 at 21:21, h4nd said:

SuperFastMatt made an arduino controller with a motor shield and a current sensor for an electric park brake. I've spent an hour, and can't find the bloody video.

Can everyone go back to using the internet with text, thanks?

Update: controller referred to here https://youtu.be/j1SMvM-SUHE?t=585

 

Up-update:

How much current do those things actually draw? anyone put a meter on one?

 

 

Apparently 20a ish? I can possibly test the set I'm about to be working with 

Trip to wash world to blast the worse of the oil sludge off

Onto the healing bench in my 'clean room' 

Rangi de glaze 

Yes I know I should mic everything and measure it blah blah. 

If I don't measure it I don't know how bad it is so I can live happily in denial. My theory is it was running well enough and not making bad noises before so it'll be good enough to go back together as it was. 

Vtec oil pump fitted 

The aliexpress oil feed kit is as good as the manifold and valve compressor tool 

Somehow the oil is meant to magic its way through that fitting on the block. Then through that fitting and into the head 

The fitting also seperates the un filtered oil and filtered oil with fresh air and hopes so doesn't instill much confidence at all. 

What did I expect for $50...

Glad I figured it out now rather than once everything was installed and on startup 

Stripped the block this morning. 

Looks super clean for 300 thousand 

Bearings look a bit worn but not fucked 

I'll need to do a bit of 'porting' on the oil drains on the vtec head so it matches up with the 2L bottom end 

https://www.pantera-electronics.com/epbcontroller.htm

I've found this controller. Currently working on if we can get it to meet cert specs 

So clutch master stuff

Crv on the left and s2000 on the right (gene) the s2000 need a spacer to be fitted to civics etc)

Left two are s2000 and right is the crv. 

The crv has a shorter u clip and push rod. 

I swapped the pushrods and u clip over. Will test fit tomorrow 

We sell something similar at work, same as any battery if they sit connected they discharge. The suppler recommends a trickle charger if leaving them to sit for a period of time. If disconnected they should be okay 

Dizzy time. 

Had a cheap China housing that the timing was out or something was wrong with it

New rotor and new ish cap and its (hopefully) good to go. 

Loom taped and fitted to crv

Quick trip to ripco for intake gasket 

Nearly the end of spaghetti time....

For the crv. Just need to test 4 wires into the orthia body loom, I suspect they are for the gear selection input or something 

Last of the auto wiring de pinned pulled out of orthia loom and and back into the crv loom/plug

Crv loom done as far as what needs go in th engine bay. I'll plug stuff in before I tape it up. 

Orthia loom needs more work but that can wait for now

mixed success today - Got the manual pedals in and found out the CRV clutch master pushrod is too short. diagrams have diffrent part numbers for the pushrods on crv/ orthia so it may be a length difference. I've got a couple of masters in the lockup so I'll go out and grab them next time I'm there

That aliexpress manifold is the gift that keeps on giving - Fuel rail holes are slightly out, Nothing a file cant fix

and the stock throttle body throttle cable wheel thing fowls the body too, again I've got a spare throttle at the lockup or if that's the same I've got a grinder

More spaghetti! 

Crv loom all repined to correct plugs. I added in the knock sensor wire. Will do the auto stuff tomorrow. I went to run the wire for the vtec solenoid and the orthia loom already has it populated and it's running to the dizzy plug. I'll have to look at the dizzy and see what's going there 

Qc/supervisor making sure I'm staying on task 

More cluster schenanagins. Turns out the crv and orthia clusters are the same size just different fonts 

Crv now has gear indication and a higher redline for more doorts 

If anyone wants the leftovers for digi speedo or something then let me know 

Biscetti time! 

Orthia, manual crv and auto crv looms

Partially stopped the orthia loom, I've started to pull out the auto stuff for the crv and I'll add in the reverse switch, vtec and re do the distributor plug to suit. 

Stripped the auto crv loom 

I'll need to repin the crv harness to suit the orthia ecu. Crv is obd2a and orthia obd2b so they have different plugs and totally different pinouts. 

I started on the repinning last night and it was quicker than stripping the looms. It'll slow down when I need to transfer the wires acorss for the auto (4th plug which isn't populated on the diagrams) 

Just need some hammering to finish it off. 

Grabbed a clutch and new rotors and a bucket of cheap oil