chris r

Yeah factory meant to be 110kw at the flywheel factory. Just running 95, if I sacrifice a bit of power so be it, it's intended to be a fun daily/I'm too cheap to pay for 98 all the time 

My crx made 115 wkw from memory (same dyno as this will be going on) , that was type r b18c so more compression and revs/it also had aftermarket cams. 

Rangid up the catch can with leftover hoses/fittings from my hoard. It was a cheap catch can but looks exactly the same internally as the mishimoto cans so finally a aliexpress win 

Outlet goes into the resonator section of the airbox 

Sits nicely where the factory massive resonator chamber sat 

I've run a - 10 hose down under the rad for a drain for the can. Didn't want to buy a bung so I made one. Hopefully the orb fitting seals well enough 

The tuner popped around and had a nosey, was happy enough with how everything is. I just need to check the iat sensor in the morning as it was reading a bit high 

Looking a bit more factory ish. I'll try and mount the factory heat shield over the headers 

I've rangid a intake pipe up while I wait for a factory one to arrive 

It'll go onto the dyno some time next week. Its the 'heartbreaker' mustang dyno which reads lower than others but it's just a number at the end of the day 

6 minutes ago, shrike said:

Ok nice sure you'll get a few more gains when its tuned/run in etc

Nice so a small bump up from the factory compression (Factory seems to be from 8.8 - 9.8 from what I could find)

Is the manual gearing higher or lower then the auto (ie is it revving higher or lower at say 50/100km)

Fingers crossed they don't notice the conversion, assuming it looks stock enough yeah?

Any plans for some boost later on or just drive it as is?

The vtec heads flow much better so all things being the same it should gain power compared to before, but more importantly I get more doort noises 

Manual crv gearing is higher compared to the auto (or manual orthia) it's revving higher/speedo is reading about 15% faster. 

Hopefully once I track down a stock intake arm it'll look more factory, its all bolt in parts (except the shifter) I'm hoping with a boot I'll get away with it with a friendly shop

16 minutes ago, shrike said:

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno

What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again?

Assuming wof wont be an issue?

It's still on base tune so conservative, I'll be getting it tuned on Neptune (socketed/Chipped factory ecu). Butt dyno says it feels a bit "flat" but again not tuned/ haven't checked timing etc etc

Compression should be 10.2:1 with this head.

I'm hoping no wof issues, I'm more worried about the manual conversion stuff tbh

Yeah I'm stoked 

Spec is original b20 block/bottom end, b18c vtec head, crv manual gearbox and rear diff (so ratio is the same) 

13 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Gotta admit.. At first I didn't understand. But now we are 25 pages deep and I find your stuff quite impressive

Thanks, yes it's a silly honda wagon. I wanted a awd manual vtec wagon so I had to make one hah 

So list didn't get much checked off but i got a bunch done. 

Started on exhaust stuff. Expanded the headers a bit so I could slide the pipe in so it'd hold while I figure stuff out. 

Got flexi in position then the rain set in and I was over laying on puddles so moved onto other stuff 

Bags of new genuine bits (and some rock auto stuff) 

Torqued head bolts down and started on the cams/cam caps 

Two small o rings replaced there 

Got the o ring ready for the middle cam cap but the dowl is missong

Moved onto sorting the intake manifold stuff 

Fitted fuel rail iacv and throttle 

Manifold came with a extra coolant line which isn't needed so I Wanged a bunch of epoxy and a bolt into the hole 

Squirted some underseal on the inside of the trans tunnel 

Only got two things ticked off the list today... 

Shifter plate was win and took a few hours, hopefully I can smash most of that list tomorrow.

Ideally want to get to the dyno by the end of the week which is looking like a very ambitious goal at this point 

Mixed success today

Got valves/retainers all sorted today, Went to put the gasket on and it was a tight fit with the dowels, Head gasket didn't survive the process

Cut/welded/seal sealed the block off/shifter mounting plate

I'll tack/weld the nuts on so its not a mission to change in the future. I'll etch prime it then give it a good dose of underseal so its factory azz gee

All the gears work which is nice

https://imgur.com/DBGSZH5 

While I was on a pickapart mission I saw there was a accord with a heimholtz reso so I grabbed that - Will have to do some more reading/sciencing to figure out pipe length/sizes etc. There is space above the rear muffler so I should be able to fit it, with the new headers I should be able to fit the cat and the other resonator 

Tool some brave pills today and got out the extension and the holesaw

Took a couple of cuts to find where the top was.

Hind site says dropping the subframe would have made that easier but the cbfs were strong

The shifter lines up nicely with the console which is nice, I might need to cut/weld/adjust the shifter so its not so far back but I'll wait until its bolted in and the steering wheel/column back in

Cv boots arrived for the rear, Fitted them and the crv diff when I was under there

CRV diff (right hand side)looks slightly different but bolts in the same

Lapped the valves in

Gave up fighting the keepers so called it a night after only getting two sorted 

Juuust missed it 

. 

Becaue everyone likes pics of honda stuff here's some more 

Grabbed some dowls from work that actually fit 

Borrowed the 14mm hex of the neighbor and put in the an fitting into the block so I'll actually have a chance at pcv stuff. Next time I'm at lockup I'll grab a catch can and see if it'll fit 

Bilstein do replacement struts and koni do inserts. As I understand the issue is from the steering arm being welded (and cast) on the majority of aftermarket coilovers. 

Got the bottom end assembled, windage tray and oil pickup on. Sump gasket pood onto the sump with black schmoo like factory. 

Replaced bypass spring and valve as it was cheap enough 

Had a cunt of a time with the crank seal in the oil pump, after about 10 attempts I got it in properly. 

Attempted to wrinkle black the rocker cover. Etch primed it in the paint booth and peaked there 

Sat the head on and test fitted the cheap headers, I'll get away with a 2.5" 90 bend off them and it'll line up nicely with the rest of the exhaust. Hopefully I can move the cat up and fit the reso and flexi in 

Unsurprisingly the dowel pins that came with aliexpress kit are shit, flop around in the head and don't for the block or the head bolts. 

Fitted the shifter cables and sat the crv shifter in to see where stuff wants to sit. I'll need to very carefully drill the firewall and miss the heater core and ducting.

I can pretend I'm a rally/race driver as the crv shifter is super tall

Mounted the oil feed plate to feel better about fighting the rings and crank seal today 

More wiring 

Sat head on so I could figure out where plugs etc wanted to go 

Intake for the same reason 

Some split conduit and a roll abd a half of tape later 

Vtax wire is pinned into the ecu, reverse light switch wires are run to the plug and I'll pick a couple of wires from the inhibitor/auto stuff that I can repurpose for the lights. 

I grabbed a jaycar speedo corrector as the crv has a different final drive etc and it'd be nice to have a correct speedo. 

Other ring set arrived from rock and my dipstick and some seals arrived from amayama 

Got a decent list of stuff to do tomorrow, hopefully I can get most of it done and have it drivable in a week, my tuner only has a small window of time and I start a new job in a couple of weeks so it'd be nice to have everything done before then/before I loose access to the hoist at my current job 

2dfl?? Yellow 

Shrink wrapped the block so I could make some progress on everything else. 

Barry crane setup and got the block in 

Flywheel and clutch on/torqued up 

After falling off the jack four times the gearbox just slid on with no dramas

Slave on and it all blead up relatively quickly

Drivers cv/axle installed

Reinstalled the konis into the shuttle and put the yuck 17s off the orthia on 

Got drivers side front in and realised that I've got two right hand side ef forks which sucks. I thought I had hoarded more but clearly not. 

Did a service on the beagle and the 'you might need to keep a eye on it' oil leak did need a eye kept on it. 

Both sides are that bad, it'll drip onto the drive shafts and go everywhere. Atleast it won't rust I guess 

I nipped up the sump bolts which were a Smidge loose but not horrible 

Wanged the phone down and had a look at what I could see. 

I'm wondering if the $4 rock auto filter was weeping or if the oil cooler o ring has perished and is leaking. 

I'll throw another bottle of stop leak and some degreaser at it then have a look later