chris r
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Posts posted by chris r
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Pood some seam sealer on it today
Drivers seat foam had given up. I grabbed a passengers side at pick a part a while ago and was finally annoyed enough today to change it
Seat out and replacement base
Pulled the material off both so I can swap it over
Yup foam isn't doing foam stuff any more
11ty cable ties for the material to go back on.
It then went dark so I didn't get any pics of it going back together but it's in now and feels better.
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Took it out for its yearly excursion.
Collected the singer sewing machine and the compressor from the parents place
Feat dad's barry lifting device
Haven't had any motivation to carry on with the weber stuff.
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The colour match isn't exactly right but it's silver so it'll do
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Re fixed the rust as I did a rush job last time and it crept back. Got some proper rust converter acid stuff this time
Ran out of time to finish priming etc
Grabbed a new set of cheap tyres no point in wearing out the 003 commuting. I've gone up to a 205 55/15 now. Speedo is only 10k out now not 20
Installed the mugen shocks I had in the shuttle
Yeah na it's going to need a lot of rolling to even be close to not shredding the tyres.
I put the stock stuff back in
The fronts stick out even more so it'll stay stock height as I'm not cool enough to run stanceboy camber to fit it all in.
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Such off roading prowess
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The ac has been intermettent for a while and there was a old receipt for a repair on heater controls not working so I pulled it out and took it to the healing bench
I suspected dry solder joints so had a go at them with the cheapie soldering iron. Yes best practise is to de solder and re solder everything but i don't have the energy/can't find the tools in the mess. Reflow and a bit of fresh solder in the mix will do the job for now
Success (mostly)
Annoyingly the illumination lights aren't working. I've ordered all the illumination bulbs for both parts from amayama as they were a couple of dollars each and being genuine I know they'll work fit/be right.
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So this happened again tonight
Replaced the clock spring as I grabbed one when I was last at pick a part and it's the only part of the system that shares a 12v supply with something else (horn)
Here's a edited version of the reset process so I can find it easier again next time
1st step in erasing the memory is to turn the ignition off and connect the tool/switch to the MES Plug
2nd Turn Ignition on. SRS indicator light will come on for about 6 seconds then go off.
3rd Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds after SRS indicator light goes off. SRS indicator light will come on again.4th Reconnect tool/turn on switch within 4 seconds after SRS light comes on. SRS indicator light will go off.
5th Disconnect tool/turn off switch within 4 seconds. SRS indicator light will indicate that memory is erased by blinking 2 times.
6th Turn ignition off, and wait 10 seconds. Start vehicle like normal and light should come on and go out like normal.- 3
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Did some reading and there is a manual srs reset process to follow, disconnecting battery isn't enough as it turns out
Made up a button to help with that
Success
Got sick of not having the alarm control the locking so sorted that
Had a look at the diagrams and there was a optional remote for this, checked and the drivers door had a factory motor in it which was nice.
Had to probe the module but found the lock/unlock triggers
Soldered the wires on and put it back in the case
Now it works as it should
https://i.imgur.com/t4YwJkj.mp4
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Checked the loom, no visual damage at all checked everything for continuity/shorts and all good there, clock spring had continuity and no shorts so I'm guessing ecu shit the bed
Grabbed a couple of bulbs from pap while I was there and fixed the cluster/not being able to see the speed needles at night
Chucked some coolant in it as it didn't leak any of the water or make milkshakes
Crimped/sorted the amp power wiring and made a new earth cable while I had the crimpers out
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On 11/07/2022 at 13:20, chris r said:
I think I did but will need to have a dig through my photos
Owner of the van has just passed away so it's all on hold for now. I'll get it wired enough for it to run and we can make a plan from there
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I sold a bunch of adrenalinr to the Honda people at my last job, after chatting with adrenalinr a few times the recommendation was nearly always the adr019 louvre baffle
https://adrenalinr.com/shop/louvre-baffle/
Bigger body is better for quiet of course.
If you just want something livable on the street and not after max powah for street setup then a turbo flow/triple pass rear muffler will do the job. I've for a fairly small cheapie on the orthia and it's perfect as a daily.
Edit:
I've also fitted a adr019 to the tonner with a cheaper m&h flow master copy muffler and its pretty quiet/sounds good as well (only 2.25" tubing and 2.5" reso)
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I'm leaning towards clock spring, I had the coloum out and didn't re center/check the clock springso I'm hoping that's the issue.
I had the srs loom out when I was running the shifter cables and was super careful not to damage it
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Couple things have cropped up, srs light has made a appearance and didn't fix itself with a reset. I'll have to do some trouble shooting.
Flash codes come out as 23, 13, and 12
2-3 short circuited To a Wire In Passenger's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance
1-3 short circuited To a Wire In Driver's Inflatable Air Bag Module Or low Resistance
1-4 short circuited To 12 volt power or VSS. Driver's Inflatable Air Bag ModuleAlso the cluster lights for the needles don't work so I'll need to pull the cluster out and investigate
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Couple small things today.
Fixed the door card fabric that's been flapping pretty much the while time I've owned the car
Mounted the ecu
Factory trim even fits back on
Next on the list is to cut out a bit of metal to fill in the gap where the crv shifter boot doesn't quite match the orthia surround. Stock civic/orthia shift boots will be too short to fit and share a similar size hole to the auto shifter
Just need to make some brackets for the headers to help support them and clean/drive it and see what else comes up.
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11 hours ago, Roman said:
Did Jonno tune this?
Yes he did, we were chatting after and mentioned he knew you
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Borrowed old works host.
Driveshaft, new pads and rotors fitted.
Heat shield stuff applied to firewall around shifter as the cat sits right below it
I grabbed a shorter belt for the power steering and that now works
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Factory intake arm arrived thanks brock/auto parts farm/I forgot your os name
Fitted that and used a old bit of auto trans cooler hose as the rocker cover vent hose as the cabin gets pretty fumy (still need to do shifter cable grommets)
Unsurprisingly my orb fitting didn't seal, good to know catch can is doing its thing though
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Rock auto a set of bearings and boost it tbh
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Pretty stoked with that as it's a 300k+ bottom end rebuilt in the shed with a unknown Facebook marketplace head. No leaks or shitty noises.
If I can find some b16a or type r cams I'll get more power all round but dont know if a cbf changing them when this works well enough
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Dyno run was a success. 107.4 wkw and 142 talks
There is a slight air flow restriction up top but is is not the factory airbox/cheap filter combo which is interesting, could be the stock b20 throttle body
Correction. The vortech/doort master intake pipe picked up power but it was still dropping back a cell in the map up top so the factory intake is not the restriction, most likely the stock 62mm b20 throttle body.
Factory intake setup below
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1 hour ago, h4nd said:
Hiya, did you get a number? I can look for / make something when I get that to work with
I think I did but will need to have a dig through my photos
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1 hour ago, cletus said:
The bends from sta are shit IMO . When you cut them they are different diameters so don't match very well plus I think they have that aluminisation stuff which makes the welding difficult
Best ones ive found are from Autobend in east tamaki.
Agreed, for a super cheap shitty bend they work ish. I grind the aloomizong off and it's nicer to weld.
Auto bend stuff is heaps nicer! Thicker wall too from what I've seen. but I'm money cheap and spend a bit more time Fucking around as a result.
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If time isn't a issue I'm quite impressed with the ap exhaust stuff I got from rock, time will tell on the longevity of it all though.
Landed cost was less than chase wanted for similar products
Stickly flanges make nice flanges or if you want cheap bends then sta have them
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Dyno booked for Wednesday
Rangi up a intake while I wait for the factory arm to arrive.
I'll ask tuner to pull off factory airbox and see what gains/losses there are.
I'll try and get the factory heat shield over the exhaust too, it'll need some trimming but will be nice to have it stock ish
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Chris R's various honda thread including punishing modern non os daily driver updates
in Other Projects
Posted
Seat base has made a massive difference. I didn't realise how bad it was before. Just one commute and my hip/knee aren't as sore as they usually are so that's a win.
Noticed a bit of rust under the glass hatch so attacked that today.
Usual sand/treat then brunox etc