chris r

Rough idea I have for idle control is a inline style motor off a bmw/euro thing. Should be able to hide a hole in the manifold and air cleaner base fairly easy. I know port injection is much better overall but for learning/playing around with tuning the single point/throttle body will be good enough to get started

So a package arrived from @Raizer today with some adaptors. I chucked some studs into the manifold to test fit everything. Must have been a Friday manifold or the work experience person had a go at it as one stud is on the piss So of course the nice straight holes in the adaptors didn't work so they got some love with the file Yes the holes for the tbi until aren't a perfect match but at end of the day A it's a 202. B the manifold runner lengths aren't close to being even C it's a 30ish year old throttle body and injectors Throttle linkage clears nicely on tbi. I'm hoping the falcon throttle cable bracket will be close enough to work with then existing throttle cable I test fitted both adaptors and they fit nicely enough so went fully barry and loctitied the studs in along with nuts and washers on 3 of the studs (4th is too close to the runner) Carb fits nicely now. I'll trim the all thread a bit shorter and loctite them in I'll get it running on the new carb and dizzy then start mucking around with getting the ecu schenanagins installed and will do spark control only while I piece together more injection stuff. Still need to figure out some sort of idle control as the falcon setup isn't a option as its two big solenoids that hang in the way. I'd also prefer something a bit more refined/controllable than a on/off throttle opening

I needed to order some woodruff keys for the cams and ordered new drum adjusters at the same time as I'm sick of re adjusting them/the old ones were worn and a bit stripped Will install them at some point and hope I don't have to touch them for a long time now

My mk2 exhaust fix was good but there was a annoying rattle in reverse which I thought was a diff or something. It did end up being diff related but not seriously. The snout of the diff was moving down in reverse and hitting the exhaust. Can kinda see how close it is here I was under the car doing some other stuff and could easily move the diff enough to hit the exhaust by hand. So original mounts were pretty soft. Since the mount worked so well barry me decided to try do the same with the diff mounts. Put the jack under the diff and raised it up. Took the washers off and cleaned the mounts as best I could in place Filled them with schmoo Let it sit overnight supported by the jack. Much higher and it doesn't move by hand anymore It's been a couple of days and no more rattles so far so let's hope it's fixed

Fitted the blue tach and speedo (I didn't get the odo lined up perfect so it'll have to come out again at some point for another attempt) unfortunately it's a auto only option so the black manual fuel and temp is staying. It slightly hurts my ocd but can't do anything about it The new rock auto engine mounts were a bit soft/the engine was moving just enough to be annoying. I don't want to splash out on after market mounts that'd make everything vibrate annoyingly so barried some urethane in the rear mount. It's been a couple of weeks and it's not vibraty and annoyingly moving so that's a win.

I'm guessing the same thing re the cams. I bumped into another orthia foamer at pick a part who had some rare parts so I grabbed them off him The type s/highest trim spec had fake carbon trim on dash with blue instruments and window switches etc so I grabbed them and a rear cargo boot net thing. I'd grabbed this steering shroud from pap a while ago and finally installed it along with the carbon cluster trim Cleaned the shifer boot surround and replaced the black/rusty fasteners with stainless

Fanciest part on the whole ute No blocking of the power valve with this adaptor Carb fits perfect and everything clears I messed up the drawing/one dimension on the base and it's about 10mm to long. Plan is to get the bit cut off and welded back on and hope it stays straight enough. If not black rtv will fix it

Currently has the b18c cams that came with the head. My tuner has done a heap of b20 vtec builds and said the b16 cams have a bit more power/midrange and they pick up power with intake cam advanced a bit

Got some b16 cams and cam gears from the tuner for a good price I've ordered d the woodruff keys and will need to find some time to swap them over then can go for a tune and hopefully get some more killer wasps/atleast fill in the midrange dip

Screen shot of vid showing the adapter model. Should be ready this weekend but I'm working so won't be able to collect it for a bit

Go 2.5" from headers back imo. I've got a set of cheap rock auto resonator and super turbo muffler on one of my vehicles and it's a really nice volume for a daily. If your feeling flash you can go for the adrenalinr mid mufflers. Sold heaps of them at my last job and had no complaints about them

Installed the lines today The air con hasn't been the best since I've owned the car and the compressor has been making noises. finally chucked the gauges on it to check. Yip compressor works until pressure switch kills things as high side is too high The fans weren't coming on when the compressor was engaged. I didn't want to pull everything apart to test /trace wiring so barried up a fix. Chucked a diode between the ac relay and the condenser fan relay so fans come on when ac compressor is engaged but ac doesn't get engaged when the rad fan switches on Diode and wires Heat shrunk and soldered to relays Back in fuse box And that's looking more reasonable

So I re read @1963 AP5 weber thread (thanks again for the info and inspection of the carb) and I realised I had blocked off the power valve port with my stack of adaptors so that'll probably be causing some of my issues. I found my old cnc drawings and attempted to merge them together and didn't quite succeed. I've been working in a engineering shop for the past few weeks and they'll cnc me up a holley to weber adaptor that (if I can measure properly) will clear throttle linkage and not block the booster port. It should be ready in a couple of weeks when they can fit it in Gave it a oil change and took it for a quick spin down the road for a os freight pickup. It even rained so it got a bit of a wash

Got to have a nice pedal feel for stop go traffic They'll never be seen but may as well have something else for wof people to laugh at along with the teddies The rear lines are similar to the shuttle and are super short so not much benefit from changing to braided on the rear. I've had a random flat spot/surging start. Yuup that'll do it. Clearly I had forgotten to tighten the throttle body when I put it on. Whoops My temporary speedo wire seems to have fixed the issue, every time I have checked its been working well. I still want to scope the signal to see what it's doing so I can confirm 100% it was the issue I've had a play around with my various rear swaybar selection. The crv and various civic ones won't clear the diff. I've found a random rear bar I grabbed from zebra a while ago which looks most promising

I'm running Hitachi/hikoki but pretty everyone else at work runs Milwaukee and rates it

Temp fix seems to have worked so far. Still need to scope it so I know for sure what's going on. Did some maintenance the other day. Replaced the main engine mount, took a gable that b series ek was the same and it was Had a annoying squeak which I suspected was shock top hat bushings or the swaybar bushes Was def the shock bish as you can see how squashed it is bottom right. I just replaced the top as I don't have the time to pull the strut out. It's massively reduced the squeak so good enough for now

Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix. I've run a wire from the cluster to the ecu (and de pinned the adaptor harness) to check if the speedo corrector is being a dick to the incoming signal. Quick spin around the block and it's working but it usually does

Aand back to being a dick again. Really need to get a scope out and see what the signal is actually doing. Is the speedo corrector being a dick and changing it or is some other fuckery happening

And of course it behaves on the test drive

So pulled the ecu out again and tested continuity for the millionth time. Of course it's all good. Possibly a dry joint or more likely it's scratches from my meter probes. Reflowed it while it was in there and soldered the wire on There's a handy hole in side of the case so wire comes out nicely Now it can go back in and every time I have the tools it'll work. One possibility is the speedo corrector is causing schenanagins with the signal and the ecu not being happy with it, that's another reason for wanting to chuck a scope on it

Unfortunately that's the wrong Obd2 plug but thanks for the offer That's earlier obd2a and mines obd2b but thanks for the offer

If you have a spare I could borrow that'd be helpful.

Nope back to not working again. Really need to borrow a scope and solder a wire to ecu pin and see if it's acutally getting a signal or if ecu is being a dick

@h4nd what software did/do you use for drawing the diagrams?