chris r

Bum dyno says the orthia has more midrange and it certainly feels nicer to drive. The Mrs says it feels better too 

Had a few hours to work on the shuttle today.

So younger me did think about removing the loom and put plugs inside so it was easy enough to disconnect. Not the tidiest work but its been functioning for 10 ish years like that so I must have done something right. I'll be redoing it all anyway

The car is a mess as its storage/I've just thrown stuff in it 

Rare NZ new povo spec AC delete vent out

The EF sedan evaporator bolted in nicely

The low-pressure hard line even bolts up nicely

I have two options for the low pressure/suction side, I can cut and attempt to braze the hose (with r134 connector) onto the ef hard line.

Or see if I can get the flex line crimped onto the EF line and fit an R134 service port adapter

Nothing went bang, 3% average gain overall and a bunch in the midrange. Will upload pics and vids when I get home. 

Stock airbox is worth 3kw up top so I'll have to look into butchering it or making something more free flowing  

Gave the orthia a oil change and quick look over, have dyno booked for tomorrow afternoon. Will be curious to see how the B16a intake cam and new headers compare to the old setup. 

So I just had a bunch of injectors tested. Most of them came out as expected. 

However one set was waaay off. 

A brand new (been sitting for ages) set of seimens deka FI11445 came back significantly lower than expected. (advertised at 750cc) 

I purchased them back in the day from a reputable supplier and I have no reason to doubt they are China copies. 

Seems strange to me that even after sitting the flow could so far off. 

They are low impedance so I'm wondering if the test rig didn't like the low impedance and was packing a sad or some other fuckery is happening. 

Has anyone else come across this or had a similar thing happen? 

The daihatsu condenser has a built in receiver drier with a dessicant/filter bag. Dig some digging and cross referencing and the filter bag is shared with a bunch of different modern vehicles. Have a r134 tx valve, o ring set and filter bag on the way from rockauto.

The orthia ac compressor gas started making sad noises so I've got a receiver drier on the way for it. Will keep a eye on the crv/orthia at pick a part and see if I can find a lower milage compressor 

Test fitted the HRV bracket onto the new motor (internet says newer stuff isn't backwards compatible, I did take off the torque mount bolt which would have hit the chassis) 

Bolted it onto the motor in the shuttle and fitted the HRV compressor

The HRV high pressure hose looks like it can be moved out of the way enough to work

The HRV Low-pressure hose looks like it'll work and clear stuff, my plan is to braize/weld the HRV hose to the Tail on the EF evaporator 

The Daihatsu condenser looks to be a similar size to the half-size rad I have in there now, I'll need to get some more of the alloy tubing and the plan is to join it to the EF evaporator side.

I'l flip the orientation of the fan on the rad and make it a puller and with a bit of luck the condenser will be able to be mounted to the front of the rad. With a bit more luck the intercooler will fit in front of that 

Its an easy enough job to fit the evaporator etc but past me decided the holes would be a good place to run the engine loom when I did a wire tuck so it is now a bit of a mission. Past me also deleted all the A/C related stuff from the looms too.

I had always planned on redoing the loom, looks like doing the loom has moved up the priority list a bit. I can add in the AC wiring etc and also run the boost control solenoid stuff at the same time

There's a little less space than before but now I can figure out where the turbo wants to sit. Also featuring the rare Rover rocker cover I nabbed at pick a part a few years back

Did cap, rotor coil and leads on the orthia today. Sent it through a couple of puddles and got water into one of the ht leads dried it out as best I can but I suspect there was a bit of carbon tracking and it has a occasional miss. Seems to be fixed now. 

Had a quick pick a part mission looking for ac stuff for the shuttle today. 

Took a gamble that the ef sedan stuff is the same behind the dash.

The ef sedan compressor was r12 and felt fucked when I spun it. I had a look at some other newer Honda and there was a d series hrv which had a smaller r134 compressor and a allow mounting bracket not the heavy cast iron one the shuttle originally came with. Took it off and it bolted up to the earler block which was a win. 

The original ef ac condenser is a full size unit which won't work as my turbo and intercooler want to live in that space. Had a walk around and found a daihatsu condenser thats half size and should fit with a bit of butchery. Bonus is it has a integrated dessicant/receiver drier in the condenser so saves some space 

46 minutes ago, rotormotor said:

Thanks champ, bad feedback I take with a grain of salt as people who have no issues rarely place feedback, if cranky its flametime.

 

Sooo... @chris r are you on good terms with them and get 'better' pricing than the listed price hahaha  

Not that good terms unfortunately. 

Can try "clumps" code at checkout. Some brands excluded so may it may not work 

12 hours ago, rotormotor said:

Lads, looking at Autometer gauges and the above site has all i need at prices better than Fastlane.

 

I see they drop ship from I assume the US.

Bad feedback is pretty much same about weeks/ months of no parts nor communication and shite customer service.

Anyone had great success using this mob?

 

Cheers

I used to work there. Changed owners but there is a semi regular air freight consolidated shipment from a freight agent in the States. 

It was a constant battle of people not being able to read or understand the freight situation along with covid fucking the suppliers

Products are legit and shipping times are form when supplier dispatches the parts not when order is placed. Unfortunately there is no way to automate the various suppler portals to show real time stock on their end. 

Tldr products are legit and delays happen but it'll turn up 

Laptop for scale. It's not exactly small 

Long story short have a working board and solenoid driver 

Had to play around with some settings in the software as it it's a capacitive sensing switch and not a contact switch. Need to tweak voltage and current settings for everything to register correctly 

So each key needs to be mapped or assigned a function. The controller is designed to work with a variety of keyboards from this error so there are some unused rows or columns which need to be ignored as they aren't connected to anything 

Forgot that I ordered the wrong card connector and was mad when it arrived 

Then I opened the other parcel 

Works crazy busy until Feb so I won't be able to do anything until then 

That's what nearly 40 years of electronics evolution looks like. That small purple board replaces all of those through hole components and had the same if not more functionality 

I figured since I was paying freight I'd order the solenoid driver board and usb converter board at the same time. I had my eye on a pre made board but for the same price I had 5 of each board and enough components to make 3 solenoid drivers. 

I've spent hours trawling old forum posts finding information and cross referencing stuff. Probably took the best part of 8 hours to trawl through old threads etc 

Bag of bits 

Visited my mate who has patience and experience with smd stuff 

Talked some shit while he applied the paste and I passed the components. We made up a couple of solenoid drivers and one converter. I missed two components but can order them

And in the oven 

And out of the oven 

Iittle bit of re work needed then we can test it and I can spend a few more hours (days) looking for the software and flashing the micro. 

We both ran out of energy for the year so more progress will happen in the new year and once I order the missing components 

Cleaned the switch pads 

Carefully cleaned the plastic isolator and installed the new pcb 

And back in the keyboard 

I'll give the key caps a clean before final assembly 

Had a exciting courier package today 

Carefully disassembled the keyboard 

Next to the new one 

Finally remembered to pick up the rocker cover for the shuttle motor. Had a couple of -10 fittings welded on for the catch can. 

It's the later model with factory coil on plug so a nice cheap easy upgrade. Still keep the sensors in the dizzy but delete the coil and ignter which keeps things simple. The tuner 3d printed a cover to replace the old cap. I've got the factory plastic for the coil wiring so it should look nice and clean 

Gasket didn't line up and it started leaking again so I got annoyed and sealed it up for good. Just welded the back side as that's what kept leaking. I can still reach the front with the mig if it decides to leak out the front 

Gave it a quick squirt on a on ramp the other day and it really needs a tune, feels a bit flat and vtec now is very noticeable on changeover so there's power to be had midrange. 

Had a couple of issues with the flange in the 2-1 section of the header. I had ordered a close enough gasket and butchered it to suit but it blew out, tried maniseal and it lasted a bit longer. 

Had a helpful person at repco who let me have nosey through a book and found a gasket that should fit.

The gasket was on clearance for $1 so hopefully it works. If it doesn't I'll be a rough cunt and just weld it and make it a one piece header

I'm suspecting the exhaust needs another hanger as there is a bit of weight off the back of the headers and they are moving or flexing even with the rough and ready bracket I made up. 

Will see what I can can figure out on my next days off 

Night shift got cancelled after a few hours waiting on site. I'd just had a red bull so figured I'd make the most of being awake.

Was lazy and hoped I could get away without pulling the lower covers off. Couple of ties to hold the belt in place on exhaust cam 

Cam caps off and b16 intake cam + gear in place 

Caps on and everything torqued up. 

Found my feeler gauges so checked and set the lash. Half of the exhaust valves were too tight so I must have mixed some valves up when I put the head together. 

The b16 exhaust cam had some surface rust from sitting so I left the b18 exhaust cam in. A bunch of forum posts suggest the exhaust cam is the same so I'm not too worried. The tuner said no need to a adjustable gear on the exhaust side as he's only seen gains on adjusting the intake cam 

Oh and becuse I've taken so long to finally install the cams the dyno is most likely booked out until next year 

Bum dyno says it feels better/has more power but it's more likely the fact I've emptied all my tools /sub out of the back. 

Still need to swap the cams then the dyno will reveal all 

I saw some witness marks where the diff and uj were hitting the pipe so gave it a bit more clearance 

Old vs new. Bigger primary tubes which are actually port matched along with a better design should make some improvements 

Got the new headers all sorted today 

Test fitted after it was welded off the car, it needed a bit more grinding but it clears the sump just 

Trimmed back the collector and tweaked a bit of tube to suit. 

Pillaged the flanges and flexi off the old setup 

Test fitted everything. Tacked it then welded off the car 

Marked and drilled for the 02 bung

The holesaw was missing a few teeth to start with but really didn't like the hard weld. Ended up having to send and completely finish it off to get all the way through 

Just clears everything, it'll only have a wideband in for the tune then the bung will go back in 

I got sick of taking off and refitting the headers so cheated a bit with the brace and went underneath

Drilled and tapped a bit of steel and found a random bracket which fitted. It bolts up to one of the threaded holes in the gearbox where the flywheel cover goes. Couple of tacks and it should be supported enough 

I'd grabbed a tank for the shuttle from pick a part as the one in it has gone rusty from sitting.

After the bullshit I went through on the crx I figured it's easier just to replace the tank 

Pick a part stabbed it right by the factory drain hole which is annoying. 

Grabbed a bit of stainless from the bin on site and cut a hole in it. Cleaned the tank

Lots of careful tacks later 

And a date with the grinder later 

Can't see any holes so fingers crossed it doesn't leak