chris r

Just need some hammering to finish it off. 

Grabbed a clutch and new rotors and a bucket of cheap oil 

Cv time! 

Two left two are the auto 36mm crv axles. Right side is ef b series manual (hopefully I can swap the inners over or use the bearings) 

Top right is faulty accord axles i grabbed from the bin 

Then the auto/manual half shafts and auto orthia axle on the bottom 

Got one auto crv axle assembled, pick a part mission inner cv along with the grease/boot off a accord axle. 

I grabbed the trans cooler I had floating around the lockup so that'll go into the crv as it has a manual rad 

Pick a part mission turned into a Misson. Both auto crvs had had the CV's pulled out and chucked on the ground. Lucky between the two crvs there I got both larger shafts. 

Both were missing the inner bearings (which are different to the orthia ones) and inner cv boots were well gone. 

I pulled a odyssey apart and luckily the bearings are the same and there was a inner boot that also fit. 

Grabbed a loom out of a crv too as that'll save me some time as plugs etc are different between orthia and crv. 

This is turning into a bit of a time sink but hopefully it'll be drivable/I can get it sold. It would probably have been less time/effort to part it out

Hopefully they install themselves 

Clusters on the healing bench

And all back together 

Interestingly the early clusters have abs light in different location and a low fuel warning light and the Facelift clusters don't have a fuel light. 

Borrowed a 36mm socket so I didn't have to make a trip to the lockup

Scored a new set of headers for $100, 4-1 design so I can move the cat forward a bit and fit the resonator in and have a "full" 2.5 system from the collector back 

Just now, shrike said:

Sorry if I missed it are you swapping box and motor from the crv complete or just taking the box?

Just swapping boxes across, manual for orthia and auto into crv so I can flick it off. 

I've pulled the orthia motor so I can throw some rings/bearings/gaskets at the bottom end when I put the vtec head on

Crv is back in the healing bay 

Ratchet strap jack and making sure the torque converter stays where it needs to be. 

Orthia mounts and brackets bolt up and fit which is good. Means I can find crv stuff on rock if I need to. 

Honda cv shaft barry time 

The 5 stud stuff has larger diameter outer CV's so 36mm nuts. Turns out the shafts are larger diameter too.

Orthia has 32mm outers so I can't just Wang the auto shafts into the crv. 

The Internet told me that the auto and manual shafts are the same. 

The diff spline count is the same but the length is different. The cv Cup is also heaps bigger on the 36mm shafts. 

I tried to swap the inner cv tripods across, that's when I found out the shafts are different sizes. 

I've got a set of shafts from the crx in the lockup, I'm hoping I can grab the inner cv cup and tripod off that and put it on the orthia shafts. 

I'll need to do a pick a part mission for a set of auto 36mm shafts 

29 minutes ago, shrike said:

Not sure if anyone would notice a electric column tbh it's all pretty hidden :p 

but yeah fair point, did you get a new wof so its 6/12months future you problem?

That's true. Wof is due in December so I've got time to wait/figure stuff out 

8 hours ago, shrike said:

Or an opportunity to get an electric power steering column to modify and fit? (Pack the factory steering rack with grease). 

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Hmm could do, $70 for a bracket is less effort and less risk of needing a cert. 

Yes it's a trans swap but technically all 'oem' parts so I'll plead ignorance 

Looks less daunting in the light 

Managed to get motor and trans out without crane and and major spills. 

I'm working in the carport so it's a bit damp today 

Annoyingly the power steer pump bracket is different on the vtec head. I'll need to find a factory bracket or gamble on a aliexpress one

Got radiator, axles, rear drive shaft , intake and exhaust manifolds and most of the loom disconnected from the orthia. Didn't quite get the trans dropped but that can be tomorrow's problem 

While packing up I noticed honda had made my life significantly easier. No need to bust out the holesaw 

Productive morning 

I'm picking I'll have to grab my engine crane to get it back into the orthia 

8 hours ago, shrike said:

Lotta kms csn they be wound back?

Not too many more than the car has hah, I'll just swap the fuel/temp side over and keep the speedo and tach from my original cluster 

Collected a manual cluster tonight 

Lvvt manual/book says they need to be operated through a load-sensing device such as a current draw

sensor;

I interpret that as a yes it needs a ecu/controller. 

Wilwood do a whole kit, calipers and controller etc I wonder if the controller can be had separately 

https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/BrakeKitsProdRear?itemno=140-16849-RD

I'm working on something that has had come calipers retrofitted, will be talking to the guy that made the setup next week so I'll update in here 

So I'll be playing with a electric parking brake on a car soon

The cert requirements (as I read/understand) say they need to be operated through a load-sensing device such as a current draw sensor

Is there a nice standalone 'ecu' or control module available? I see wildwood make a whole kit. 

GPS based speedos are a no go right? They'll need to be 'driven' either mechanically or electrically 

Vehicle is a 79 Bedford if the age makes a difference. Three fiddy three fiddy powered 

8 minutes ago, DoBro Jesus said:

This is the answer I wanted to hear.

https://www.kflash.co.nz/

This dude if that is the same guy your looking at 

20 hours ago, DoBro Jesus said:

Yeah I really liked how it looked especially with the pearl white and black and grey alloys. Tis a jdm spec one so has lane departure assist, adaptive cruise etc. Also prefer the clear front indicators to the nzdm spec orange ones. 

Anyone dealt with k-flash before? They have a tune available for these which I'm pretty keen to give a hoon.

Yeah k flash is a mate of mine and is a gc. He did my old euro r. 

Made it go harder for what it was 

3 hours ago, GARDRB said:

Surely you can buy another CRV with WOF/REG for the column  

Failing that they are common as fuck at Zebra/pickapart aren't they?

Hah yeah! They're are millions in pap/zebra but I'm cheap and want to spend the least amount possible 

There has been a intermettent knocking noise, I thought I had something in a tyre or possible a wheel bearing. 

Noticed both drivers side cv boots were gone on the back and the shaft moves around a bit. 

I'll steal the shaft off the crv eventually. 

So it was nice quiet and comfortable... 

Made a 2.5" system for it tonight. Took way longer than expected. 

It was at that point I realised I didn't have enough bends so made some pie cuts

Hot metal glued it together 

I could only fit two mufflers in it adtye driveshaft takes up a bunch of real estate. 

It's *just* too loud. Still quieter than most hondas with aftermarket exhausts. Zero rasp which is great. 

When I have more caring and time ill grind and paint it. 

Cheap reso is interesting looking. I'm used to looking at the adrenalinr stuff but that's a different price point. Looks better than the cheap m&h stuff 

The cherry bomb looks a bit shit, some of the baffle has been moved/bent. 

Hete is cheapest exhaust stuff I could buy

The neighborhood kids were screaming so I made some of my own happy noises with the grinder and flap wheel. 

It's not vtec officer.... 

Figured out which were the intake and exhaust stem seals and chucked the new ones in/on

It occurs to me thst I probably should have lapped the valved in before doing that but I'll give them shit loads of oil and it'll be fine