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Escort Engineering

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Posts posted by Escort Engineering

  1. Do you mean adding compression strut? or twin swaybar? Or eaxtra swaybar link/bracket in middle?

    Not much point in not lowering it...

     

    Did you just want to add another bracket in to stop the bowing in the middle?

    Not much point in not lowering it...

     

    Did you just want to add another bracket in to stop the bowing in the middle?

    So I'm going to add in four standard rubber bushes with the clamps to stop it bowing should have added that opps but the idea is to not change the geometry of the car because what I have heard/read is when you lower the sway bar it changes the caster but I'm going to change that at the top of the struts I will try upload a photo of the drawing I have done so it makes some more sense sorry about the lack of info

  2. Hey guys just wondering if any of you have had or used an antidive kit on your escorts? im going to put one in mine but not a bolt on one well sorta along those lines, it will just be straight across the car at factory height so there is no geometry change to the car.

  3. Dust seals aren't to much of an issue in my opinion because the piston don't retract into the caliper if you are going to run wilwood and ever have to change the pads just make sure you wash the piston with warm soapy water and a toothbrush, but im only going of knowledge of racing background

  4. Thought it was time for an update so here it is ive been working on my sump for a few weeks now and it is almost complete so here are a few pics for you all to look at

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    The sump started of as a ford escort 1.8l sump which i cut down

    img20130107121125.jpg

    This i it all cut down didnt take to long to do this with a milling machine

    img0137t.jpg

    Then i got to work folding and filing some 3mm alloy

    img0149cv.jpg

    img0150dr.jpg

    img0151mg.jpg

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    Here it is sitting on the motor it sits quite nicely i think

    img0153rw.jpg

    I had to wing the sump aswell

    The sump still needs some work like the sump plug and a baffel plate and then the oil pickup and it will all be done hope you guys enjoy the pics

    • Like 2
  5. May have been mentioned already but when welding alloy grind tungsten to a ball or on a slight beval , gas flow around 7-8 litres a minute and use a gas lens with a number 6 or 8 ceramic so you get fairly good gas coverage , when the pool in the alloy is astablished you will see it go very matelic silver like dull chrome you will see a swirl in the weld pool this is when good heat has been created and the two pieces your are joining should start to fuse, start traveling adding wire if needed but be cautious of the heat as you move along the weld you will have to start traveling faster or turn your amps down. Hope this info is of some help .

  6. i wish x1000 i had made one of these when i did my fiat, instead of lying on my back getting rusty crap and underseal in my everything.

    i reckon a circular piece with more holes in it to get the angle just so would be a sweet upgrade, but probably unescessary

    also unsure if required but some gussets or extra triangulation on the feet would make me feel better about wailing on the car that is up on it.

    Yeah the angle plate would be sweet but no need for 45 degree angle with what im doing , as for the gussets don't think they are needed only time the load is really on the legs is when you take the lock pin out

  7. Hi everyone thought i would do a little article on make your own rotisserie, i made mine about 2 years ago and is probably the best thing you can make for working on your car, you can make one for around quarter of the price of a bought one and the main thing is that you can make it to suit the application that you want it for.

    The whole frame is made from 40x40x5 RHS mild steel.

    Im using my rotisserie for a MK1 ford escort i have mounted the front cradle on where the quarter bumper brackets mount with the two bolts that go through the chassis rail so all up the front cradle has 4xM10 8.8 high tensile bolts , the rear cradle is mounted on the leaf spring mount where i have used a M16 bolt to hold it in which is 8.8 high tensile.

    The pivot point in the middle of the frame is a m20x130 8.8 high tensile they are that long so that when you rotate the car on the bolt it isnt turning on the thread it is turning on the plain shank of the bolt.

    carrotdraw.jpg

    Here is a drawing of the end frame really easy to make.

    dscn0844k.jpg

    This is the front cradle which if using for a different car you will need to make them to suit, you can see the two bolts holding the frame on at the front

    dscn0843k.jpg

    Here is the back cradle it has two bolts through the chassis, you can also see the m20 bolts where the pivot is and the one at the bottom is the locking bolt.

    Hope this info helps someone out and make there project that much easier, best of luck.

    • Like 1
  8. Shaneo's TardMe lucky dip crossflow with cam that starts at 3k is pretty streatable and plently fun after extensive road testing. Not sure what spec it is other than double valve springs and big cam but goes very well and sounds great. Not going to be near 200hp though and fuel economy isn't in its dictionary.

    Hahaha yeah if i was still going the crossflow direction it would be more of a formula ford engine 120hp that would be enough

  9. You could get a machine shop to make some AN- fittings out of brass i only say brass because it is cheaper and easier to machine then copper, then maybe you can get your local radiator shop to solder them to your header tanks, I hope this is of help .

  10. Also have been doing the gearbox and front brake set up in running wilwoods on the front and am doing a disc conversion to the back with nissan primera p11 calipers

    img0076su.jpg

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    Gearbox all cleaned and reconditioned fresh paint makes them look good the box is a 2000e single rail cortina one.

    sam0059s.jpg

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    Here are the front brakes i made the brackets up at work on the cnc i think they will do the job and look the part behind some 13" wheels

    • Like 1
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