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Shakotom

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Posts posted by Shakotom

  1. Back in the olden days bags were tyres :wink: And BF Goodrich T/A's are very much olden day tyres :) (although these are new and surprisingly soft!)

    Grandparents neighbour isn't an older bloke named Andy? Silver Mk1 transit?

    Nah, it's a red one with his sponser stickers on it.

  2. I was reading this and read 'Bit of a dummy trial before I get them painted and fit the bags on' 

    please say thats bags as in airbag suspension not tyres :]   . Still dope though, grandparents neighbours got an old transit stuffed in his shed with his rally escort, I like transits

  3. 10833864974_d07dbcceac_c.jpg

    That is the infamous Starfire, and it was time for it to say goodbye.

    When i originally purchased this car it was never ment to be a project, It was ment to be something cool to daily and I originally thought that being a little 4 cylinder it would be relatively economical. That thought lasted for a while, untill i really started to get into cars and by then id become to attached to this to part ways with it. The thought of doing an engine swap had been floating around for a while but i never could quite decide what to put in its place. until i happened to come across a VL wagon for dirt cheap. which I promptly acquired and stored in my backyard for about a year.

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    Until labour weekend when I decided that I was ready to pull out the starfire and replace it with the RB30 out of the VL with the intentions of completing the swap over labour weekend. Those were famous last words.

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    I pulled the starfire, and front suspension out and replaced it with the VL subframe

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    Fitted my new clutch parts to the RB30

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    Mated the gearbox to it and dropped it back into the hole

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    That was probably the easiest part of this whole exersize. I originally thought VK and VL commodores were relatively similar but nope. I had intended on using the VK non powersteer rack but the mating holes on the subframe of the VL are closer together so Ive had to use the VL powersteer rack. that ment i had to swap the steering column intermediate shaft out for the VL one. Ive also had to swap the pedal box over to the VL one for the hydraulic master cylinder as VKs are cable clutch. And VK/VL fuel tanks are different to take the intank pump/ fuel return

    Gave that a quick clean and paint before fitting

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    I also gave the V8 LSD diff i had purchased a while back a clean and a paint while i was at it. This diff has supposedly been freshly rebuilt and never fitted to a vechile since. When i took the casing off to have a look in it, it still had the paint marks from assembly on the pinion and ring gears.

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    I swapped that in but decided for now i wouldnt fit the disc brake conversion to it due to having just replaced all the components on the drum brakes on the old diff so i ungraded the diff back to drums for now

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    Ive also gutted the interior and swapped the VL loom over for now just as i couldnt be bothered wiring the car up from scratch.

    Ive also mounted the high pressure fuel pump and filter, swapped fuel lines in and semi sorted out a majority of the wiring. I was intending on getting this started last weekend so i put some 98 in it, filled the diff,gearbox and engine with Fuchs oils, fitted a battery and went to start it only to find that it will turn over sweet, but doesnt get power to the ECU or fuel pump. Which was a dissappointment as I flew to melbourne for a couple of days for work on monday and I wanted it running before then.

    Time to get out the multimeter, wiring diagrams and start checking things

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    • Thanks 1
  4. Possibly a reask but am getting confused hunting for answers

    With transmission xmembers and mounts are there any guidelines to be aware of when making one? any minimum amount of rubber or such needed to isolate it from the xmembers? Minimum number of mounting points ect?

    Just wanna get it cert friendly. I am currenty thinking something similar to KKs mount on his wagon? And any guidelines for welding?

    Thanks in sdvance

  5. Not much of an update but im to stoked not to share this.

    Got some more new stuff, This time drag link repair kits, Rod ends and spring shackles. Unfortunately the original front spring shackles on reassembly decided just to rotate instead of tightening due to the splines stripping. Needless to say I was not impressed and ordered new EFS shackles off 4WDbits. At the time I was tossing up just getting a full set of extended shackles to replace the standard length ones but my father drummed some sense into me and told me to put the money into elsewhere that needed it and wait till Ive actually driven it before changing anything else. Also may i recommenced george stocks for all you suspension needs, after ringing around a bunch of places and getting told that the drag link boots didnt exist i had resigned to the fact id have to get some from aussie, but ended up getting two drag link repair kits for less than the price if shipping from aussie. Also got rod ends. 

    ugh sourcing parts for a 28 year old vechile.

     

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    Installed all those onto the chassis, put on the little wheels and rolled it out in to the sun. Then decided to put on mud tyres for the full effect.

    They are 33x12.5R15 on a 15x8 

     

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    I didn't really accomplish anything else as I spent most of the rest of the afternoon staring at it. 

     

     

    Discuss

    • Like 6
  6. I'm pretty sure basic head gaskets for the 202s are cheap as chips, head bolts are reusable and coolants like $30. 202s Are super simple to work on. Just build a 16:1 ratio motor for the Lolz and do fully sick skids!

    I really like the HQ, I've got an HZ ute

    So I'm keen to see where this ends up. Keep at it mate

  7. Progress over the last week was hampered by the fact my foot had a disagreement with the front hub assembly on sunday resulting to a trip to the local emergency center and being put in a cast as i couldnt walk on it, it was badly swollen, and the doc wasnt 100% sure that i hadnt done damage to the bones. Thankfully it wasnt broken so that came off on the Friday. 
    The front differential has been put back under the leaf springs with new EFS ubolts, and the steering knuckle rebuild kit I ordered turned up aswell.

    When I was checking parts over I found that the steering knuckles were leaking so I dismantled them to find Diff oil had been leaking past the inner seals into the knuckle, And that combined with the already contaminated water/grease mix that was in there creating this fantastic mixture. 

     

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    That led to the diff being stripped and having everything else checked over before being etch primed and painted black. Everything appeared okay so it was stuck back together, The bearing races, bearings and seals in the knuckles were replaced. The CVs were cleaned and regreased and the knuckles were filled with Fuchs grease, and preloads were checked and set to factory specifications.

     

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    Which came up looking quite good in my opinion. The more I look at this, The more i start to feel uncomfortable with the thought of actually taking it and getting it dirty.

     

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    Then it was time to put the hub assemblys on. I made sure I kept my feet well away from them this time as thats a lesson I do not need to learn again.
    Ive replaced the disc rotors and also the wheel bearings and filled it all with Fuchs grease aswell. All I need now is a 54mm socket to set the preload and adjust the wheelbearings, new tie rod ends, drag link boots and leaf spring shackles for the front and itl be rollable. 

     

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    • Like 4
  8. Bush camo on it is interesting but i dont think it will stay. I got replacement doors for it as the current ones were rusted out along the bottoms and repro guards for the front as the snorkel holes on the wrong side, so i may as well give it a quick rub down and spray once i decide on a colour. Just the cab though, ill do the wellside at a later date as im undecided as to whether i will bob it or not. It came with a overbuilt bush flatdeck on it and when i say over built i mean like 4x2in 5mm thick pipes as framing, it was heavier than the wellside.

     

    Am currently focusing solely on the HiLux at present as i want to have it ready to drive at new years so im aiming to get it warranted in November. (famous last words)

    Currently it just has the standard 3Y in it which will be retained for the time being with the possibility of an engine swap down the track if after all this i decide to a.) keep it or b.) it needs more go

    I will probably just run flexiflares on it or something when the time comes. Plus i couldnt really see the benifits of fiberglass items on this when the factory metal is insanely light as is, they make the guards/bonnet of my commodore seem heavy. but i will keep that in mind as an option 

    • Confused 1
  9. so i got  some other wheels but im not entirely convinced on then due to fact they would need massive spaces to fill out the guards and not being very wide, they are 15x7 HDT momo star look alikes, As found on the HDT VL director but in a 16in 

     

    Just got a fresh wof though and paid registration so time to get out there and waste some gas 

    • Like 2
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