smokin'joe

too many torques ???

most bits that are bought in a shop come from the states (but built in Asian sweatshops)

the land of dodgey vehicles to say the least.

 

i have had experience with american made components, and found they were mostly junk

Paul, i fixed it for ya.

They have a bump steer test rig that all have to pass now.

good idea.

still, must suck balls if you have bought a whole front end kit for good coin, only to have it rejected as it was only designed for "show-car" use i.e: not safe for actually driving on.

shit, that was a scary read.

has LVVTA clamped down on any of those IFS set-ups yet ?? was at a shop where the bodywork was being done on a fruity coupe, and they had major issues with cert on the front end due to dangerous amounts of bump steer and other geometery issues when used as designed.

getting a business to swig a few litres of fuel out of their monthly expenses shouldn't be a major, just don't try harrassing for actual cash, as it very hard to cliam as an expense.

who you working for these days , Paul? it is often the boss than can swing a few deals, but be lenient on extra time off for racing.

I too will be looking for a workshop in the near future. slash once I get a job.

Have things I need to do!

like sending a carb to Timaru ?? a reply to PM's wouldn't go a miss.

Spotted a few weeks back

looks like barry's runabout.

4tgte ain't a bad donk for someone plenty old enough to know better (if it is his)

good idea, whats the chances of getting to the bung while the vehicle not jacked up?

unless it's slammed (which is a fucken waste of time) should be easy enough, maybe rock it over a driveway crossing for extra room.

13B-T

as said gearboxes can give problems.

Elaborating on this: Apparently the oil level as per factory is a little low and the bearings can be ill-lubricated. Overfilling the gearbox by a pre-determined amount has been shown to prolong gearbox life, as well as uprated bearings if used hard, and not towing or lugging in top gear.

standard nissan manual box....weak as piss bearings

 

I haven't had anything to do with the diesels but the td27 engines are really robust. turboing a non turbo one can be done with great success, and although not as robust as a factory turbo one, you can still get really good power out of them without issue. turbo ones even more so. Lots of easily done upgrades to get them to do the deal .

 

I've been told that d22 ones have issues with the front of the chassis cracking, and d21s have often got rust issues.

td27 is a great ol' workhorse, even better with a hairdryer.very low maintenence and easy to work on.

D22's chassis probably only cracked in NZ/Aust as we are fucken hard on gear, and the Navara is lightly built compared to Hilux of same vintage.

D21 were only realy bad for rust in the Terrano (as far as rust you can't fix yourself before the WOF man sees..... he knows were to look). any ex-farm vehicle can get rusty in the floors wheelarches due to animal shit ( usually an easy fix with a gluegun and panel steel.

 

IN summary, if it were me, I'd hang out for a manual diesel one. The engines are robust as shit so picking up a factory turbo engine is cheap as chips, as are parts to turbo a non turbo one. get into it. 2wd or 4wd, same answer IMO.

Don't worry about mileage. Just buy one that you reckon is in good nick.

Also I'd buy a D21. for realz.

wouldn't buy an auto if you are gonna haul loads with it............manual all the way. gear a spare gearbox bung, so you can whip the one out of anything you inspect to make sure it ain't coated in metal chips.

bin it an get a 4K-c carb or convert to small Weber

Next sunday then?

Ashburton Street Sprints this day.

always good for a cruise and a park-up.

say if some one was to build a classic rally car to compete in the likes of targa rally and the silverfern rally what would the car require ( apart from FIA/MSNZ race seats/harnesses and cage) ? do things like suspension modifications etc have to a separate certification? or do you just need a low volume cert?

cheers

depending on the car/class you have in mind, you may not need cert for mods (depending how extreme you are going), as many modifications will force you into another class.

MSNZ authority card does cover a few mods other than seats/harness etc, so depending on the car you intend to build, allowances here may be enough to build a decent car.

Ned, two words - Sheldon Rush

i dont have rego or chassis number for this engine as its fitted to a different car, have looked through tridon parts finder, its saying ive got the right one but is just to short and not wide enough

just find the chassis code for the turbo varient. try toydiy to nail a code and part number.

transmig 130 twin is a pretty handy unit second hand. nearly all parts still available.

should get one inside your budget. i swapped ea82 2wd box and a box of beers for mine. helped him drink the buggers too.

you might buckle and warp your panels if you used an LPG burner to heat your gurds, the flame is quit big. A normal oxyacetylene welding set up can be adaped to use lpg by counter sinking the tip holes a bit, even the cutting torch, its not as good as acetylene tho.

I do alot of steel,bronze,copper work and have made 2 home made lpg burners witch are 20 times better than anything you could buy, they will heat up big chunks of steel to a dull red in to time

if using LPG as you gas, why can one use compressed air ( from rattly in the corner ) as your oxygen supply, then use oxy/axcetylene gear ?? would save renting bottles.

when you state 'bolt-in' are you refferring to the mounting feet only ?

or is the cage 'bolt-together' with horrible connections at tube junctions ??

MSNZ will be super easy to deal with, providing you can supply chassis number and rego, they should be able to track down the cage number, if it WAS homolgated. there were plenty of logbooked cars built up mid-nineties that had non-homologated cages

carjam comes up with a photo of my actual car too when i type in my reg. not sure if thats awesome or sketchy.

just typed in my TE71 Levin and it has an AE85/6 rally car . close, but no cigar, mine ain't a notchie.

This seems unreasonably cheap but here is a rebuild kit for sale in the states (synchros and bearings): http://cobratransmis...53434d31350afd1

Does anyone know which T50 has the 62mm OD x 16mm wide input bearing?

their site give the kit a date of production which would make it early 20 spline box.

last time i got my t50 rebuilt it was 360$ inc gst for the bearings, its cheaper in the long run to rebuild the box! just because you know what has been done to it,and your not buying some other dudes heap of crap, i know 1st and 2nd are the first to shit out!

if you buy another box make sure its mint, or you will be in the same boat your in now!

and most sellers will claim they are mint, even though the front bearing is toast and has notchy snychros.

$300 -ish for a box that could let go at any minute is a harsh price to pay, when they can be rebuilt for similar price

fix it up. better the devil you know

so the timing will be out?

how do you find the tdc at pot one on the pump?

there are timing marks for all 3 elements. crank pulley, camshaft pulley and injector pump pulley. should be an embossed triangle on the backing plate that lines up with the notch on the pulley at about 10 o'clock.

1 tooth out on injector will make it gutless

1 tooth out at the crank and it will sound like bigends or mains have spun

as far as i was aware/advised, it is an import only issue.

south canterbury Toyota fitted a manual burn relay into the rentals at a previous employer.

if one could isolate the curcuit, maybe fit a timer device