smokin'joe

hahahahahahahaaha...........................oldschool cars rock.

fuck the fancy shit like ABS, SRS traction control.

drive oldschool styles and approach every piece of road like every other road user is trying to kill you.... they unconsciously probably are !!!!!!!

I've offered up an early small axle T series head to an H165 housing and can confirm the T head will require a shim as the axle-to-mounting flange distance on the T is greater than the H165. 3mm sounds about right but didn't do a precise measurement.

 

That bloke on NZdatsun who just bolted it in without correcting this must be chewing out his bearings? 

..............and tyres. be a fucken handful under power in the wet too !!

Found the thingy.thread I was thinking off http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5277&hilit=toyota+lsd&start=10

Basically looks like an ae86 head will go in with some minor mods (some clearnance work to fit the head, and redrilling the bolt holes to bolt it in), plus driveshaft mods to suit.

be interested to see wheel alignment data from that, as i am postive a shim was required on the mounting face to kill the toe-out, also helped to clear the carrier bearing bolts.

cos i'm a cheap cunt, i use heavy duty deisil inserts for the rally car, but am not running super stiff front springs like you want to.

 may be an option for you

unsure if Chris Kelly is on here from CHCH but he may remember more, it was over 10 years ago when we were fucking around with them

fit the entire T series head.

u will need to re-drill the mounting holes on the housing, and i believe a 3mm shim was required or there will be excessive toe-out.

 

we never actually completed the deal, but small spline T axlesfit H165, there was also interbreeding with H190.

 

Subaru also used Hitachi diffs(R160?) and did read they can massaged to fit

This is stupid.

^^^ this. to be brutally honest, you are only looking at a very minor geographical area, already covered by commutuers who can do as a freebie.

 

i was offering southland / otago ->north (including chch if needed) with an often empty ute and trailer and got bugger all call for favours/beersies.

So he didn't look at the carb like I explained to you in the other post?

If it's running fine on flats and fucking out on inclines that would lead me to believe, as I said before, that there's a float issue, sticking or level is incorrect.

 

if it's the carbed version, what grade fuel are you running ??

91 octane will pink and fart around unless tuned for it.

how good is the fuel in it ??

if it stale low octane crap, it wil run like poo.

 

new filter and some 98 and thrash it ??

 

fuck, dosn't get much more basic than that............. i likey. guessing the boat is the brace or is it for ultra short distance tows ?

looking to build similar for my Cod-Botherer to free up the super heavy duty trailer it currently on.

too many choices !!

finsihed panel and paint Imp ...........then revin

cut rust from Levin rallycar, paint do skids

put TE71 spec Sprinter together and do skids

finish buggy/tractor thing

 

or more honestly...... fill the fridge and waste a week being blottoed

haha, is that  ^  a photo for rust repair cert!!!

I want brass specifically

go to a building suppliers or joinery shop 

was gonna suggest Scott Panel and Hardware but Felchers have taken them over and merged then into Laminex group and no longer have online catalogue but printed catalogue may still be at hardware shop

 

what size and quantities ?

Unless you are a fuckwit you aren't going to change the metallurgical properties of the steel with a blow torch.

 

the WOF/COF man dosn't like it when he sees any sign of extreme heat applied to steering components

if its a non-setting sticky mess you want, then we used a Sika mastic for sealing freezers panel on coolstores.

 

if it's an adhesive sealant you want , then the panel sealant above, or Sabre SMP60 (which it what was used on my boat for gluing the pontoons on)

a good electric heat gun for removing paint will produce enough heat to do the job with out using extreme heat (blowtorch) that could fuck the metal.

That's pretty bloody good!^^

he's done a few, and is MSNZ tech.

we got a MK2 Esky kit off him with the notation:

' if it dosn't fit correctly, the shell is bent',

it didn't and it was !!

main rollbar:

original size (X) 38.1

Reduction (A) 37.9

Exspansion ( 38.4

front rollbar:

X 38.1

A 37.9

B 38.5

one of Dave McCahon's pre-bent kits as fitted to my TE71 Levin

a lot of people seem to go to the ae/ke setup as above,  so you get the adjustable caster arm and easily modified lower arm setup.    unsure if there are any benefits/downsides geometry wise going to the ae/ke setup, other than the obvious camber/caster adjustment.   maybe a backwards move as none of its setup the same. plus more weight

geometry aside, using KE/AE style struts/LCAs unlocks far better shock absorber options, swaybar options,steering arms etc

Interesting point about stretching the bottom arm mount outwards KPR. I looked at that on my Kp but thought the swaybar through eyes would be unhappy? Do you use a wider swaybar off something else?

i recall using KE70 LCA and sway bar set-up on a starlet track-car during it's build. unsure of the outcome as the main builder fucked off to Aucks to hide from his debts.

KE70 uses bigger balljoint allowing KE/AE steering arms and struts/brakes.

i have plenty of these parts of you want to borrow and have a mock-up.

Kia ora,

 

Doing a rebuild on the Corona and I'm in need of some standard main bearings for my 3T. I've already tried ACL bearings, NZ Toyota, STA Parts, Cliff Bond (in Chch) and Engine Parts in Silverdale. Any suggestions on where else I can try? Ideally in NZ.

what size are you after.......... can check my stash

in my experience, the factory Safari 24->12v reducer is capable of running the factory head unit only, and as soon as you put a more powerful unit (ie more current draw), the reducer will shit itself. back then (5-10yrs) a decent reducer was around the $100 mark, but i am sure they are much cheaper now.

i will have a dig in my electronics box later, as i believe i have a S/H one i could offload

any idea of the PCD ?

is the 5 stud Coon ryums fit, then they would be 5 x114 making them very common, the early coons were 4x114, still very common.

if 5 x108 then early Holden would be a source.

te71

still got the ol' shitter, but it ain't as shiney noes more

only thing i had to do with it , was getting served a hiding from it !!

Andy Ried and Dave Fletcher took turns running it and rallied quite extensively in the Mainland series.

yes, white with green and blue.

linky to their website:

http://teamrfr.tripod.com/TeamRFR/teamhome.html