AllTorque

That burger looks yummo

see you there

25 minutes ago, gibbon said:

I don't quite get what you mean by a bellmouth

Common on WRXs

Why have such a large waste gate pipe? Are you planning on running low boost? What about a bellmouth at the turbo flange into a single down pipe so you can move it forward away from the brake stuff. It seems a bit backward to me to change the brake booster because you made the pipe wrong.

Can you cut the pipe off the flange and shorten the pipe by 20mm? 
What heat shielding have you planned for the brake master cylinder?

Mmmmmmm,  RIBS!

I’ll be there. +1

36 minutes ago, gibbon said:

swapping wheel bearings into the new hub, there was no pickup ring or anything like that. I have since read that some wheel bearings contain abs components? I didn't pay any attention to the orientation of the bearings

I’m not sure about this specific car, but many have metal pins in the seal of the bearing to trigger the abs sensor. You can’t really see the pins. Usually the bearing will have a metal seal on one side and a black rubber seal on the other. You want the black side pointed at the sensor. Does the abs sensor point to the bearing?

1 hour ago, cletus said:

3 hours ago, AllTorque said:

I'd be happy to be incorrect on this one, but I cant find anything in the virm that says there are different requirements for trucks and cars apart from the different requirements for dual wheel vehicles

My interpretation is a vehicle either has individual mudguards or a body panel mudguard. Like most of the virm it is unclear.

Any time I have called nzta for help they tell me to use my judgment.

Here is my understanding of current WOF requirements for mudguards.

The cover down to the centre line rule is for trucks or flat decks that have a seperate ‘individual’ mudguard. If a car has the body panel as the mudguard it does not need to go down as far as the centre line.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/mudguards

Sublet, so another company has done the alignment. Maybe they are charging time for the apprentice to drive the car to the alignment place and check his Facebook while they do the alignment and drive the car back to work?

Oh,wait, just saw the bottom number. $236 for an alignment and wheel balance. something is not right. Should be half that

Looks to me they have removed the wheel from the car, removed the tyre from the wheel, repaired the wheel, painted the wheel, fit the tyre, balanced the tyre.

59 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Maybe? Would that kill it dead just like that though?

Probably not, but it’s easy to spray some cleaner on it. Or try starting it with the AFM unplugged. Some cars will start without them.

Another thought, crank sensor?

Nope. No airbags for a start. I can’t imagine the meet any emissions standards either.

Is your air flow meter covered in K&N oil? 

Yes it is ok to seal over the crack. As long as it doesn’t effect the pattern.

Will turn over but will not start without a coded key. There may be some sneaky way through the obd to make a coded key if you are a locksmith with a fancy computer tool machine. When I was at Toyota there were a few cars that needed new immobiliser ECUs because the owners had lost all the keys. Unfortunately for them the ECU is between the heater box and the firewall, so whole dash out.

They have a factory immobiliser. Key gets read in the ignition.

Nope. Another guy did a wheel alignment. Apparently it had a big turbo.

Shit, that looks good. Better not get it dirty.

Sounds like a sad booster to me.