Muncie

I have one in my garage and to be fair its my wife project and she had no problems ordering new parts from england (cheap as chips) new parts cheaper than second hand, but a tidy car turned out to hide a fair amount of rust in basicly all the seams so be wary of any car that has a newish paint job. i'm currently welding new panels onto it as its cheaper than mucking around with the rust. Oh and dont by a english import RUST x100 % from salted roads

you need devcon for that dodgy porous throttle body titanum putty seriously fixes shit a tig can't got a pot if your interested could get it to you. it's not cheap but i'll never use it up.

Found my solution half the price of the moss kit. about 170 bucks landed in nz doubt i could be assed making it for that money

http://www.goodparts...p?categoryID=13

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if the pump is external power it up and see if the car starts it'll help track down the problem. my vn commodore had similar problem had 12 volts at pump wiring but hook it to pump it'd drop down 8v Not enough to make any fuel pressure was shitty contacts in relay. come to think of it had a porsche 924 that did same thing.

anything v8 thru a 2 chamber flowmaster. haha i had one on my SD1 sounded like a big block chev

providing your driveshaft slips in the box you should be able to use the triumph unit providing the bellhousing can be swapped over, and torque converter bolts up to the flexplate on your engine you'll be away laughing.

grind it flat then put centre punch dead centre and drill it out slightly smaller than size of stud eg 8mm stud drill out at 6.5mm you should just end up with the thread of bolt left in hole which if your careful can be folded in on itself leaving a intact thread on your manifold. if it goes to shit will be plenty of meat left to helicoil. Helicoils fucking best invention ever!

those mounts look easy enough to make

They do aye but i really am lazy. tough decision think i could possibly make them if they wont work. emailed moss for more info and whether they'll definately fit.

use wire braided is the best get it moving then keep speed up it'll soon get hot as hell

are you sure you'll get 235s under the rear guards? I had 195-60-14s on mine and you couldn't even fit your fingers between the guard & the tyre.Then I ran 195-55-15s (although they were on 9" wide rims haha) for about 2 days, I rolled the lips up on the guards & there was about 1-2mm clearance then under heavy acceleration / load they would rub on the Actual guard tubs. That got old very fast. Went back to the 14s.

have run 245 50 14 eagers al round on one before on widened r30 skyline rims no guard mods or rubbing but yeah bees dick clearance on back between guards and shocks.front was pretty good though surprisingly

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=8860

150 gb pound roughly

Have found de cambering shackles for a TR6 that can take 3 degrees out but they are pricey and come from england but are fully adjustable. wanting to run some 14" 235's on back so excess camber will make short work of those. anyone keen on some flash shackles? might be able to get a bulk deal on a few sets haha.

Got front down on my triumph now new bushes added a sway bar Awesome.

Now i've headed down to the back end its going down 60mm lower on heavy duty custom made coils with new shocks to hold springs in place. after dropping springs out and dummying up on trolly jack i have at least 3-4 degrees of tyre killing camber i see plenty of guys on here have dropped trumpys lower did anyone find a fix that can be made in the comfort of the average mans garage?

I've got a couple of ideas to try but be good to skip straight to a proven cure.

its a bit of a design cock up on this model of car they corner on the bumstops at standard height and as the back has no bumpstops whatsoever from the factory when you push them thru corners at pace you spend alot of time on 3 wheels looks hard case but you soon get tired of it. hoping sway bar and this mod plus the new suspension bits will keep it planted.

So have been working away on parts to convert my triumph 2500 to powersteer and front sway bar to modernise the ride and handling a bit. I will be going 60mm lower in the front which from experience will put the lower arm almost on the bumpstops so while i have the subframe on the bench in the vice i have been thinking of cutting a 8mm wedge from the top of the bumpstop mount bending it back to give a bit more room then welding it back up. most people when they lower these cars cut the bumpstops down but it can make the ride quite harsh when you really throw the car round corners. i can take some photo's if this didnt explain it well enough.

I used to work as a fitter turner up until recently so the job will be done well not a hack job, i'm just not a suspension geometry guru can anyone see any reason why this would be a shite idea?

My advice is to do a few different cars to hone your skills. Eg one with a dead moter or gearbox get parts fix it warrant reg it flick it,

then get one with rough upholstery and a few skody panels but good running gear and sort that same thing wof reg and flick it. after doing that you'll know if its your thing. you might decide to never touch a car again and pay to get some bloke in from that point on.

if you crack into it this way you should at least make enough to buy some good tools and a little profit to keep you keen. nothing worse than your first project turning epic and leaving a sour taste in your mouth at the end.

Hey by any chance is it Blue? if so i drove passed it twice this week already looked very tidy. if it is seized you'd be surprised how effective a few tablespoons of diesel and clean engine and oil down sparkplug holes can be in freeing things up. above all do not scrap it.

If you want to check out my set up I like the bike carbs

Checked out your project looks awesome. manifolds for my engine would be a mission as i would have to group carbs in twos meaning linkages and fuel lines but after reading how yours turned out i'm almost sold on the idea, i take it they sound animal as?

Been trying to find parts to get petrol injection for my car (triumph 2500) most the stuff out there is in need of rebuild now and well been there done that i guess. so after lookin on trademe i spotted 2 sets of carbs off a 1300cc 4 cylinder kawasaki for 250$. now i'm torn they should out perform dellorto's or webbers. what do you think is it worth the effort? or should i look into EFI instead

Just spent last 2 weeks stripping a well shagged and ugly but complete power steer front subframe for the car spent all of sunday arvo wirebrushing straightening and getting some etch primer on the metal parts. mission.

Check the routing of your hoses i just sorted this issue on my car heater pipe had been looped up meaning the water wasnt circulating in the head put them back how they were supposed to be now problem gone... well apart from the gauge is also stuffed in the dash so external gauge also was needed. hope one of these 2 could help.

New desktop background Cheers.

If those wheels were scaled to be 18"? .......

just got some springs to rework this weekend so it will be looking alot like the shopped photo soon.

Liking it even at the current altitude. Cheers

Get a remake done on your plates then run them thru band saw till they are suitably tiny i've done it and never had issues. Licensys does the remakes and personalised plate manufacture use this online form https://ebusiness.licensys.com/Manufact ... ype=Remake

start with a legal plate and reduce its dimentions how can it be illegal bikes have small plates i cut mine down to that size banged em on and forgot about it for 5 years

use 300zx TT engine and pathfinder box for 4wd. dont waste time with supercharger those VG30DETT engines have next to no lag you'd lose power fitting a blower.