Muncie

Just a thought, what type of tach are you running? i've had a autometer go bad on me effectively sucking all the juice away from the primary of the coil making the car run shit due to a average spark. took tach out for something else unrelated and car magically ran sweet.

This car has the engine setup i'm going to try replicate with any luck. Been following development on it for years.

http://www.tiggersavage.com/overview_gl.htm

Enjoy the read

I did My triumph with this Tar type shit inside and out, its normally used for water proofing brick walls below ground level Basements that type of stuff worked absolutely mint couldnt hear my diff whine after doing it in a triumph thats saying something it set hard but slightly tacky which held the carpet in place too. think it was a product by Fosroc. any product intended for the water proofing type work should do.

Pictures to prove i have actually set hands on it this year. today saw another 30mm of low added to rear as front has settled heaps and it was starting to catch the number plate on things.

New subframes and sway bar and some rusty car underside

Front shot

Decided grill badge looked weird so its gone

About as low as she'll go now without major cert required work needed. i'm pretty happy with it will work on some better shots once i get the beast mobile and fix the window my kids broke today. is running a bit shit due to sitting for ages and running low on gas hoping i win a trademe auction for some jag 2" su carbys i've run these before on a 2 litre and it went bloody mental.

Tell me it looks weird here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36900-daves-73-triumph-2500tc-discussion/?hl=%2Bdaves+%2Btriumph

Last week i finally got a couple of days under the car So the ol girl is now rocking power steer and a decent sway bar up front

Both of which were a bit of a major as i once i got the old shit unbolted and kicked to the side of the car i discovered i was both a few bolts short and had the wrong bracket to mount the power steer pump....... bit of grinding later the bracket was flipped and welded on instead being bolted on and repco had the extra bolts and belt. no major really so this work has also bought the car back up to warrant spec. i did manage to break the fuel line on one of my carbys this took as long to fix as fitting the new subframes and steering rack. the look on my wifes face the first turn of the steering wheel was hilarious after struggling for over a year to drive the heavy beast. will upload some pics soon.

saw this yesterday, bung was fizzling as ive always thought it would be cool to have one of these slammed

 

not 100% sure it was deliberately lowered or some sort of english car problem with failed hydrospastics or something, but it was 2 younger guys in it so im going with deliberate

 

Theres 2 of these sitting under the onehunga bridge im guessing will end up in demo derby at waikaraka park if someone doesnt save them. one of them was on my street looked real saveable was at a rental that tenants got boot from hence ended up on tow truck.

Pretty sure you flick off 2 covers on inside of car exposing 2x 10mm or 12mm  nuts that are bonded to the glass and you can lift the windows out have done this before on a ae 92 was ages ago. hope this is of some use to you.

Ditch the fan off it and go electric. replacements are seldom cheap new or second hand.

Attended Wellington meet what a cool bunch of guys makes me want to build a box trailer and use the triumph as I drive all of nz for work.

Havent done much for ages been gathering parts finally got around to making this come together. Ive been wanting to push the black on white theme a bit further so this has been my plan for a while.

Start

Step 1 Alloy Grill

Made up some clear indicators

Not sure on the grill badge at this stage.

Most likely will check this out ya know just on my drive home from work....... back to Auckland.

I have my answer thanks. So fuck back to finding last of the hard to obtain parts or fixing the rack i want to take out........

Triumphs arent to bad with the ps disconnected its a good workout at least. i have seen my mate pass wof with same type of car same thing but that was a while ago. Same mate actually owes me the remaining parts but has a very sick kid so i'm not going to remind him.

If a power steering rack is fitted to a car does the actual power side of it need to work?

Just failed wof on steering rack old manual steerer needs work i have a rebuilt power rack ready to go in later on but i'm missing the front pulley and brackets to mount the pump. can i just loop the hoses and fit it? or is this a no wof wise.

Best advice is play dumb and dont risk taking your car there again neighbours could finally get your reg. even if its not illegal a cop with a chip on his shoulder can make life hard in other ways. Been threatened in past for operating a illegal motorsport event (6 guys and 4 cars) off a public road in a freight yard behind closed gates. cops showed up so we took  it inside a warehouse and shut the roller door.

Utilux are good connectors i use their larger stuff at work on leads that can take 25,000 amps. they go right down to tiny automotive sizes as well, invest in some ratcheting double crimping pliers nothing will ever come off not to mention making life dead easy as they have a torque setting no going did i crimp that enough?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/pliers/auction-659216605.html Corys should be able to sort you out.

Just fitted an alarm this weekend after a few break ins in the area. took opportunity to chuck in central locking etc the extra features of a half decent alarm are awesome i now have a remote boot popper! in a triumph!! to be honest my car has been unlocked in plain view for over a year then last week i got in and my seat was in a different position so it was time.

I am both impressed and shocked how solidly (over) engineered that is Feckin love it. kind of like a lightened for racing sherman tank.... 

If your lazy Pro Coat does a ceramic chrome thats pretty awesome not as reflective as true chrome but it doesnt age at all and is a bloody effective thermal barrier on engine parts. i had it put on some piston crowns they were still nice and shiny years later

I've used www.smartbox.co.nz a few times now when i've sold up houses they drop a trailer with a 3x2m box inside you fill it lock it then they pick it up and store it securely in a warehouse. when you want it back you give them a call and the reverse happens, your shit at a new address. hassle free i really rate them this has all been out west too.

So best option is a S6 rx7 converted to LS Chev power then you can forget about rebuilds every 3rd oil change.

I run a heated reg on my small Co2 bottle and i swear the gas lasts twice as long didnt cost much more but i highly recommend it. Big long runs Eg welding up trailers used to frost up my old reg main reason i bought it. 

Slight detour from my plan to start stripping it out for a wee bit of track work. My dads daily dropped its guts today so the keys are getting flicked to him for a few weeks till he finds something new (last time i did this i lost my cefiro for 9 months) Oh well if anyone sees Muncie senior around flick him the thumbs up he's true old school and might take it too next Auckland meet. meanwhile i'll keep gathering parts.

So first drive in 3months wof reg now gone due to working for a month in the south island however its only done 2500k's since last one so should fly thru. i've at least managed to sort a game plan for the car now and have started gathering some GOFAST bits this old girl is going to the track!

So bought this in from Rimmer Bros in england minus the oil cooler (Cheaper here)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Eying up the race seats for the front now and have finally only got to paint the lower control arms and the power steer front end can go in complete with sway

bar. next parts on hit list is a 5 speed box i've found already setup for a triumph once that arrives i'll probably take some time off work to put it all together.

I.ve done the kero and cheap oil method on my well used and abused 275K.s VN commy the the oil was gross as so i dumped that refilled with ultra cheap engine oil and kero 70% oil 30 kero

to low level on dipstick and fire up let it idle for 20 mins (no revs or load just let it idle) the dump and repeat til clean or you run out of kero and oil and patience. stick on a new filter refill with Good oil and 1/4 bottle of Moreys upper cylinder lube and enjoy. PS it took 5000 k's before the oil even started to darken up again after this. I did this on my rover V8 too noisy as fuck lifters it made a big difference still slight tick, lifters settled right down to normal after 1000k's.