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ul9601

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Posts posted by ul9601

  1. whatever this is.

    by the way, old steel wheels have the thingy cap over hub nut only, whereas these days plastic hub cap covers the whole wheel.

    are those old style caps just push fit?

     

    20240427_164726.jpg

    20240427_164659.jpg

    • Like 2
  2. 8 hours ago, Bling said:

    Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah.

    https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf

    this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference

    https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2
     

    Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural.

    That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules.

     

    Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.

     

    that second link from NZTA talks about tyre load and speed ratings suitable for the vehicle but do tyres on the same axle have to have matching ratings? it doesn't seem to mention it, so just to be sure. i mean, i'm guessing most tyres for typical passenger cars would have the ratings well above the required load and speed.

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