yetchh

does it ever kick back on the starter? check to see your power valve is the correct size, should be roughly half whatever your vacuum reading is

any special sort of switch? I'm assuming that as mine is also a cigweld that the trans will also be like yours but I'll check anyway, how does it go on aluminium?

hey bro, what modification did you do to your mig to gain tig, I also have a cigweld (200amp) and have always wondered what mod to run it as a tig

yeh, i get ya.. good thing about dubs is the cheapness of rebuilding.. you can buy 1.8 upgrade cyls with slugs, rings and pins for about 4 hundy.. fucken cheap..

Not confident i know the engine good enough to go for good drive

prob the best thing for it.. at least you can't overheat

pffft, I can barley do one in my XC and it has nearly 400 donkeys.. to fuck'n heavy, either that or my rear discs are to good.. go the XE bro, big booty all the way

There HAS to be somthing wrong with it/thrash it more. Need to do the big ol swing in like the rota boys do it.Seemed to work well in my old XF lol, shit.

can do that easy, just no standing burn, should upgrade to 3.5k stallie

was dead keen to buy a factory 302c xe wag last year (was on trademe with flames on it) but I got the big old head shake from the hand brake...

Sweet - I've been in touch with the guy - I'll get his details - when do you reckon you'll be able to head over??

Yeah if it can't do skids its definitely a POS - need photos of skids too!

pffft, I can barley do one in my XC and it has nearly 400 donkeys.. to fuck'n heavy, either that or my rear discs are to good.. go the XE bro, big booty all the way

Looks bogan as fuck though, put a 351C in it, mate.

X2..

Is there anyone out there that has a flywheel for a Mazda VC or MA 4cyl engine, they seem to be far more rare than I imagined.. Any parts hanging round in the garage that could be a flywheel?..

should do bro, it ran fine when we bought it.. prime the oil pump first then take it easy on it for the first few kms, been sitting a while

I'm def thinking about getting some.. I have a few to remove from various cars..

nah, all are discs, we had almost the same dilemma as you, original silver or red hahaha.. hopefully it doesn't need much..

if anyone has tips on tapping out highs in panels with a hammer and dolly id be keen for some tips..

ie: which hammer does what,like wise with the different dollies...

peace

has anyone used the stainless steel shrinking discs?, they look to take highs out really well, you can get them for a nine inch or 5 inch grinder for about 60 bucks ex usa

nice van bro, I nearly bought a 78 bay window twin cab ute when I was in the UK, turned out to be full of rust and i drove 300 miles to look at it, cunt.. have a handme down 78 bay window camper at the moment but the engines shit itself, used 4l of oil going to kaikoura and back and left most of that on the back..

sweet az, when you want them just let me know and you can come get them.. my chassis starts with CD2VC I think.. I take it you read this

When looking for a genuine RX-5 look for the correct chassis number. The rotary with start with CD23c for the 13B and CD22c for the 12A (if you find one). The 121 chassis number will start with CD2VC. However the 2-liter 121 will have the CD23c as well but they were released in April '79 so there will be no chance of mixing it up with a '76 or '77 RX-5 for example. There are very few 'RX-121s', however, if you want positive proof, look for the exhaust heat shielding running down the underside of the car. Also only on the RX is there a fuel pump cover in the left rear corner of the underside. Apart from the alloy wheels and badges there are no external differences between piston and rotary.

never heard of the rx121 maybe its just the later 121 with more RX stuff... i.e. rear sway bar, mine doesn't have that..

oh, and mine has the fuel pump in the left rear, so does my 929..

Oh, and the 121 and the RX5 are two separate models, same body trim etc just different engines and I think the RX had 28 spline axles as opposed to the 121 which only had 24 spline

Hi mate, finally made it here huh?. The exhaust I have in my blue is from your one (I think) but i think its a got to be a replacement as I'm sure the 121 had a wide exhaust tip..

Got my ball joints sorted and stripped all of the front suspension parts to paint. Was gonna powder coat everything but being that I have only a small amount of funds allocated to this rebuild I decided to paint everything with POR15 and then chassis black. Have read a bit about this stuff and there's about a 50/50 split on whether it is a good product or not, thought I'd give a go and if it is shit I'll bite the bullet and powder coat..

anyway, pics..

New ball joints

From this to this

To this

So far it seems to be quite good, nice and smooth (bar a few runs but hey, its fucken suspension) even looks like powder coating, just need to assemble it and reinstall it, whould like to have painted my springs yellow but it seems generic paints don't like POR15..

haha.. always the way.. there are plenty of rx7 sway bar links for sale, I just need to know if they are in any way the same to rx4/5

76/77 on has a wishbone style bottom arm, no radius arm and separate sway bar links, while pre has an I beam type and uses the sway bay as a radius arm

Nah i fucked them.. I had to cut them off as they were rusty..

Yeah bro, front end.. trying to get nice new shiny stuff is proving fairly hard

Does anybody know what the differences are (if any) between rx4/5 sway bar links and s1 rx7? mine were all rusted up, I can't seem to find any rx4/5 links but can find rx7..

Also rx4 s3 and rx5 control arm bushes are no where to be found only rx4 s1/2 which has a a different setup.

cheers, Thomas

im sure you sweet hearts can wait. not much progress at the moment anyway, my arthritits has siezed damn near all of my body

*gag.. I have a friend in oz who suffers the same debilitating condition, especially in winter.. feel for ya bro

There is this stuff called Gibbs brand penetrant that you can apply to the metal first to stop corrosion and then clear coat over that.. a lot of rodders use this stuff in America, supposed to be the goods. apparently you don't even have to coat over the top of it you can just leave it and recoat every now and then.

Is that orange blaze? nice car that.. be worth a bit of money too.. I've seen them go for for over 100k in oz