Benno

Also, how hard would it be to rebuild/rejet a carb for someone who has never done it before? If its a bit complex for a beginner, what sort of price would I be looking to get it done by weber specialties?

Cool, thanks. So what exactly is the difference between single and double pumps, and how do you tell them apart?

Hey guys,

I've decided the next thing my car needs is a better carb. It's a 1300 mkII escort currently with the stock carb. I'm planning on eventually dropping in a 1600 so don't want to get too carried away now, but could definitely do with a bit more power and a carb seems like a cheap and easy upgrade which could eventually bolt onto the new engine to begin with.

I've done a bit of research and it seems that a Weber 28/32 or a 32/36 is probably my best bet. Anyone got any advice on this? Do I need a new manifold, or could I get an adaptor milled up to bolt onto the existing one? If I do need a new manifold, is just any crossflow Weber downdraught setup suitable or do I need a certain type?

I was hoping to spend somewhere in the region of $200-$300, is this a realistic figure? If anyone has anything suitable for sale pm me please.

Any guidance or tips would be awesome.

Discussion Thread Project

Modifications so far consist of fitting electronic ignition, head unit, alarm, central locking and a set of Coby extractors.

Massive difference from stock manifold.

Hey guys, been lurking for a while and thought I should get around to posting a build thread.

I bought my Escort about 6 months ago. Previous owner had bought the car from new and drove it until he died. Only 136,000kms, a lot of which were at highway speed between Chch and Rangiora. Interior was in great condition, body had a few scrapes but nothing major and was basically rust free.

Probably going to be pretty slow progress to lack of funds, but will hopefully get painted over this summer.

Discussion thread

Gave shorting the ballast a go, didn't actually help at all.

Even once it first fires, it kind of coughs and splutters its way into life whereas previous to adjusting the timing it would start smoothly. Unfortunately I was stupid enough to not mark where the distributor was previously set to, so can't revert it to check.

If I'm right, when the solenoid is switched on (starter turning over) it automatically shorts out the resistor? I measured the voltage across when it was turning over, and it was definitely higher then when it actually started. I will replace the coil soon anyway, but I am fairly sure that the fact it has a ballast coil & resistor l isn't really affecting things too much.

Appreciate the help.

That makes sense, I'll look into getting a replacement coil. When I had first fitted the electronic ignition, before I messed around with the timing it seemed to start without any issues though.

There's a (shit) diagram of how it is currently set up.

Yeah, I removed it and put my finger over the end. So 8 degrees is definitely the right timing? I assumed it wasn't 4 degrees, and 8 degrees seemed more logical to me then 12.

Yes, escorts do have a ballast resistor. I have run a separate wire from the 12v ignition wire before the ballast to the electronic ignition module, but the coil itself it still running with the ballast resistor.

Well, I have only changed the ignition timing and fiddled with the idle adjustment, I doubt the idle adjustment would change the starting.

I am fairly sure, there are only 3 marks on the block which are labelled 4 8 and 12. I'm almost certain that they are BTDC as it wouldn't be running well at all at 8 ATDC, and as each is labelled I don't think I could have gone too far wrong there.

Hey guys, been having a little issues with my ignition timing on my Escort. I've put in an electronic ignition kit, after which starting and idling improved quite a lot. I borrowed a timing light and set the timing to 8 degrees, after which it seemed to run a bit smoother, but the starting was much worse.

As my workshop manual doesn't have the timing values in it I guessed 8 degrees, but this may be wrong. What is the correct timing I should set it to?

Cheers

Have you checked the timing?

I had issues at one stage, plugs were sparking, engine was turning over, there was fuel at the plugs and it would not start. Replaced the points and condenser and it started first pop. Also check that the distributor has not come loose and moved.

Kick panels, sides of center console or under the dash could work?

Kick panels could work, would there be any forseeable issues with speakers getting damaged from people getting on/out of the car?

By sides of centre console you mean where I have circled in the picture? I had never really though about there, but could work. How would it sound with the speakers in there? I assume around 4" would be the best fit.

How would I mount under the dash? I could put it in the tray thing on the drivers side, but the glovebox is in the way on the passenger side.

Thanks

Hi guys,

I am wanting to put some front speakers into my Escort. I have added a head unit, and rear 6x9s in a custom speaker box which sits in the parcel tray, but it sounds a little weird without any front speakers. The door cards are in great condition, so cutting into them is not really an option. I don't really want to put them into the air con vents either.

What are my other options for installing speakers in the front? Any pictures of a similar setup would be great.

Cheers

Name: Ben

Location: Christchurch.

Cars you own: 1980 Ford Escort MK2

Mods to them: Currently stock with sounds & alarm installed. Investigating free flow exhaust options currently.

Link to pics: http://imgur.com/a/P6fZy

How you found out about oldschool: Saw a window sticker a couple of weeks ago.

Anything else to add: Keen to get involved with this awesome community.