fliptrip

Thanks James, thought that would be a go! He has just texted back saying because rego on hold and unwarranted he doesn't want to be driving it. Unsure which 'burb it's in - what would you need as payment to inspect wherever he is? Auction finishes Monday

Hello friendly South Island folk. I have been looking for an old Datsun ute for a while now and one has recently come up on trademe in the Dunedin area. (Why does the South Island have all the oldschool vehicles for sales!) Anyway, I'm in Auckland but am asking if someone could take a look at it for me, happy to send gifts & beer. It's unwarranted, and apparently failed on rust, and brakes so would like both of those checked out and basically the general rest of the vehicle. If it's ok, I would buy it, pay someone to fix the issues, get a new warrant and then drive it back up North to Palmie. Who wants to put their hand up? Cheers Flip

Cool, ok I'll believe you and let you do what you want considering it is YOUR car! Is it just 50mm blocks in the back - How was front lowered?

Is this the one that was advertised with all the engine work? Either way - looks awesomely ratrod - don't paint it!

Took the carb apart and had an expert look at it - from his observation everything in pretty good nick and how it should be - Made a small adjustment to how the float sits - when it was fully down, it would let the needle fall too far and so it the needle was on an angle making it difficult for the float to push it back up as it wasn't vertical. So adjusted this so the float didn't open as fully. The cone on top of the little brass pin which the float moves up and down has a slight worn ring which if anything should allow more fuel through? Gave it a good clean out but nothing seemed blocked. About to fit it so will let you know. Have fitted it and can now get it to idle on the choke pretty well, and once warm (couple minutes) push in the choke and still idles and then once you pull the choke out, it runs rougher. Will let it cool down and then start it up again to see if the results are the same - and then take it for another test drive, and hope the same doesn't happen as last time!

Thanks for the advice so far, inspected the plugs and they were all sooty, but would almost expect that from running it on the choke? Took the carb off and gave it a quick clean out. Put it back on, started fine, and kept idling, at good low revs even without the choke on, putting the choke in would almost cause it to stall?) ,so had enough courage to took it for a quick drive, started out fine, first intersection, off the gas, idled perfectly, next intersection, idled fine off the revs again, next intersection (hill) stalled and then from then on was sluggish driving even with the revs. So am very inclined to say it's carb related. Will take the carb off and into someone with some experience. The plot thickens..

Thanks for the reply. Fuel flows fine from the pump, and between the tank and pump there is a filter which I could replace just for the sake of it. You sir, are correct, I have never done ignition/electrical before - In the future was thinking converting to electronic dizzy would be the way to go? But for the meantime I'll do as you say regarding the timing, points etc. Regarding not getting enough fuel - would this be both the idle screw & fuel mixture? And yeah, the distributor cap - next to two of the metal bits is where it has been sparking and has eroded some of the plastic, metal bits are still perfect. Just weird as if the loose dizzy was causing that you would think there would be "explosions/pitted" next to all 4 metal points? Cheers

Hi Everyone I have a 1967 MK2 1500 Cortina. I've had it for a few months and have been driving it every now and then. Until recently...I took it for a drive on the weekend and pretty much had to use the choke the whole time or else it would run rough - even while doing 80 on the motorway (I would push the choke in and it would start running rough and then I would pull it out it would stop running rough - through all 4 gears) And then when approaching redlights, when I guess the revs got too low it would turn itself off. Turn the key, and off we went again. Until I got home turned it off. And then later in the afternoon when I tried to move it, it wouldn't even idle with the choke out. So I had a quick play with the idle screw but that's about where I am at. Currently if I wind (in?) the idle screw fully with the choke on it will idle at really high revs but as soon as I push the choke in it dies so being a brain surgeon I'm thinking it has to be something to do with the carby/idle/mixture? NB/FYI I had a check of the distributor and it was a bit loose (could twist it left and right) have since tightened it up and checked the cap and in the underside, next to two of the metal points are explosions in the plastic, the metal bits fully intact and still shiny. Am in West Auckland. Cheers

Sorry to drag up the past but, how difficult is it to convert from an auto 1600 to column change 1600? Cheers