Ja1lb8

Can't remember. Was fast, but I was busy listening to see if it was still knocking and hoping it wouldn't spit a rod

Haha balls out. Do i recall you running octane booster in that for a while?

My father just finished a full resto on a 770 convertable one of these. Lots of spares laying round and if theres something in particular im sure he could point you in right direction. Pm me if interested and ill give you his number

This ones got the option of a chuck or face plate on either end. So just setup shaft off centre using the chucks. Only has to rotate slowly but may still need a counter weight to offset for vibration. I Have ground an offset shaft by fitting an adaptor over the ends with drilled centres before and in some ways i think that could be better because you can use a dead centre and shouldnt get any runout. Best ive seen was some barry when i was an apprentice turned up a 6cyl crank for a race car and left the steel on the ends till it was finish machined and ground and these had the centres drilled in either end

High capacity churbro 6, sure Ford was 10-20 years late producing one but they did a good job when they finally did it.I'd put one in an S30Z.Probably not over an L31/2/3 though, simply because I love the sound of an L on triples.

The thought had crossed my mind. My zeds got an rb30 in it at the moment and can only just shut the bonnet so theres about 0 chance of getting a ford 6 in there. Was surprised how small the rods are in the ford engine. If you look at engine in the link above theres a mangled rod sitting on top that it spat out the bottom of the sump. Think its outa the earlier 240kw turbo ba falcon

90mm stroke is still quite small. Any 100mm cranks available?

Na, Stock l28 is 79mm ld28 is 83 and rb30 is 85mm which you can make fit with some machining as they have the same bore spacing, anything bigger then that and its gotta be custom made.

Problem with the longer stroke is you run out of deck height to get a decent ratio.  Also the bigger the throw on the crank the closer you get to side of the block.

Just for a rough comparison heres a rb30(similar size to a l28) next to  a barra 4.0l

 

http://s249.photobucket.com/user/ja1lb8/media/20160625_101418.jpg.html

 

And heres my grinder , havnt sat the grinding head back on it yet. Had to remove it get the weight down, think it comes  in just over 4t

And yes I know its  a cylindrical grinder but its pretty easy to offset grind with these machines.

http://s249.photobucket.com/user/ja1lb8/media/20160625_101418.jpg.html

Yeah I have seen the dude in South Africa has a thick wall V57. He is the only one I have ever heard of finding one. I know some L builders have gone through 10s of LD blocks looking for decent thickness and not found any. 

 

You are better off with a short rod in a road motor anyway. I can't see any need for the taller block unless you are going over 90mm stroke. 

Yea, thought I was onto a winner with the  v57 block but no dice.Have heard of thick wall examples coming out of industrial appilacations, forklifs and gen sets.

And yes Im well aware that using the l28 block would be much eaisier but i want to go bigger then 3.1l and looking more then 90mm  of stroke. Sooo... have hacked up a few cranks,An RB30 and ld28 crank. Options are to offset grind using smaller journal rod, 45mm out of a honda that looked like it would work or new custom cank.I just installed a large churchill grinder in my workshop that should be suitiable this project i think?

A bit of background, building a stroker l28 nissan, been done a million times but I want to use a talldeck block out of  a diesel with a petrol head. Also not uncommon

Going to offset grind the crank for max stroke.

 

I have my diesel block stripped down and brought a cheap ultra sonic tester in the hopes of measuring bore wall thickness.

After a bit of research and aware that the probe on these testers isnt any good on the inside of a cylinder bore because of the radius i found a guy who just sat the probe in the bore with some sandpaper and shaped the end of it so it couples properley to the bore diameter.

 

 

After doing this it pretty much makes the probe usless for flat surfaces , anyhow calibrated it on a known thickness as best I could using calipers and verniers to get a measurement down one of a water jacket and then measured in four places on all the cylinders.

 

Thinnest being about 3.7mm which i thought was pretty thin for  a diesel that hasnt been bored out before.

 So my queastion is what would be a guide for  minimum thickness of the cylinder walls. Well be naturally aspirated

 

Had a really nice paint job from memory. Did some trick change colour pearl thing that was pretty unique at the time.

Cant remember which brother owned it bit either mathew or mike burns owned it in whakatane in the early mid 2000s

I got suckered in to buying one of those afterburner dissy coil and leads from v8 parts for my sbc.

Went alright for awhile then module fuct out and stalled and wouldn't start at major intersection in auckland cbd so towed it home.

Got another module and all seemed good till one day started splattering then died on the motorway so towed it home found coil leaking fluid so was getting to hot.

So ripped all that chinese shit out put a msd hei in it and never ran better.

Serve me rite for buying cheap shit...

This is exactly what happened my cheap dizzy from v8 parts. Spend the money and get something decent

Cool that you brought it. Assuming that you can start it and drive i got my gzg50 collected from a private address in auckland and delivered to my door in rural south taranaki for 650 all in. Cheeper then the fine and so easy. Showed up on one of those car transporter trucks

But late now but how bout just hammer a piece of wood in there thats a good fit before you cut the next one and pull it out once its tacked up. Hmm could risk getting it really stuck in there but could knock it out from the other end with a long bit of tube or something

Autoclutch in morningside built me something similar for my 1jz, gave them my whole clutch and flywheel, they rebuilt it all and did a full face kevlar plate to suit + loads more clamp on the cover. Worked great, can't say a bad word about those guys

have used several clutches from these guys and happy with them.

6 puk kevlar one side. Ceramic brass composite shit on the other side with a sprung centre. Can ride like a normal street car clutch in traffic without over heating. From memory i think it should hold 500hp but i spoke to the guy at autoclutch who was very helpfull and he asked for the dyno figures because its the torque thats the killer. Built the pressure plate to suite. Very heavy pedal initially but easy to ride and hold in once you pass a certain point. oh and all on a standard flywheel so i guess that really helps with the heat disapation.

The whole electroplating process causes hydrogen entitlement, motorcycle wheel spokes must be baked in an oven to drive out the hydrogen.

Dont quote me on this but theres a section about this in the hobby car manual saying dont chromeplate ht suspesion bolts and the like because of this reason. Think 70s showcars t buckets . Have herd of old boys cracking the shits when failing cert on cars thatve been hotrodded for years with chrome bolts everywhere

Dragging up an old post...but.

I have never seen someone set up a tailstock like that! Must have been a pain in the ass!

I lol as have seen people align tailstock first, then headstock, then have to do tailstock again, bahahhaa.

Was a long time ago but think i was setting up the height of the headstock . Had to put shims under it.

Pulled the radiator and water pump off. Appears to be shot. The noise i was hearing was the impellor touching the housing.Couldnt manage to press it apart using my vise so well have to shoot to town and use a mates press assuming i can get a rebuild kit or better yet just get another pump from somewhere

So bolted the head back on. Found an old dizzy cap and old copper leads so chucked them on. Tryed firing it up. No go . Couple of hours trying later discovered the Bolt thing that goes through the side of the dizzy was shorting strait to earth causing my spark issues. Sorted that. Radiator bolted on . Turns out its better at keeping water out then in so well have to try solder that up somehow. Anyway played with the timing a but and got it running. A but shit but running none the less. Terrible sound from front of the motor. Suspecting the water pump

cleaned all the valves up. Replaced 3 inlet valves that were too rusty. Spent way more hours then i should have tryna lap them in with grinding paste. Some of the seats were too pitted so made up this fly cutter looking thing by welding a piece of tool sleel onto the head of the valve and grinding it up to the correct angle. Not as successful as id wished bit did the job. Needs at least 2 cutting faces idealy to stop it following the contour in the seat face. Lapped it in and should do the trick. Has had 3 new stainless exhaust valves at some stage and hardened exhaust seats.Hoping all the water in the inlet was from sitting outside or a leak in the roof and not some shoddy machine job back in the day thats gone thru one of the water jackets

Daily it. Been using it most days. Goes not too bad. Will probably end up with a mate of mine who was pining over it.(Fletch on here)He also has another one with a vh45 in it

did a mission on the gold datsun at top of the thread coming on a year ago now. Got it legal and tidied up to use for one of my wedding cars so was stoked about that.Got turbo off fletchs skyline (thanks) and modified manifold and exhaust to fit. New oil and water lines to suite. Fitted carpet as I'd never gotten round to doing it. Test drive lasted about 15kms before the gearbox let go. Third gear stripped. In went new box and all is well. Has just been sitting in the shed since our honeymoon. Really need to get it out and legal again

Comes with such modern day features as electric aerial. 8 track after rewiring it works well and a selection of tapes. Wouldnt mind some more if anybodies got any?

random smith's gauges that tell me outside temp and lights up and tells me put my seat belt on

not to be forgotten the monsoon guard. Looks to have been folded up out of a piece of perspex.oh and the tacho. Mint dash is wrecked where it's screwed on but still a pretty cool tacho

Thought I'd just tack this on here. Not really a project as such but still ended up working on it. Mate spotted it at kuemu. Turns out so did my dad. I ended up buying it.One lady owner going into a home.mint as. Flew up to Auckland and drove back to south Taranaki that day with the am cranking.

clutch started giving up about 200kms from home. Was slipping in top gear by time I pulled into my drive so happy to make it. had a ld28 hanging around I'd brought for the crank so thought I'd try the clutch out of that on the off chance. Jackpot bolted strait on. Fail didn't work. Gearbox off again .sure enough completely different offsets to the origanil. 4 more goes later and 3 different thrust bearings got it right using one out of an rb30 . Should a just measured it in the first place and saved a whole lot of hassle

I got mine from Mcdonald brothers racing in a Aus. Suitable for automotive use in nz . Look like the one above accept there cushioned with some hard Nolathane loozing stuff so dust isn't an issue/they don't wear. also just a little nicer to ride on then steel ones

So finally got back to this. Was looking thru the tard and came across this origanil chassis for way too cheap to say no so it came home. Rebuilt suspension an motor .no gearbox . Don't really know what to do with it but my body bolts strait on so figured I'd get it going while building up my hot rod chassis

had no dizzy, water pump. , and other random bits missing so found all the missing parts that my dad had conveniently stored away many years earlier. Tryed turning it over. Took about 4 hours to unseize . Result bent push rod seized valve