Ja1lb8

somewhere along the way I got all the crhome redone , dunno where all the photos are bit heres one of the mirrors finished Had too diegrind out all the corroded parts and fill and sand without scratching my new chome, came up all good though. Same process with the door handles and other parts made up out of that cast muck metal rubbish

In the meantime Id been giving the engine a tidy up and all the other parts a birthday so I could start putting it together when It came home Hardest part of this whole builds been tracking down rubbers off other models and cars to adapt because cant buy anything for this off the shelf

sound deadening and off to the upholsters

And because Im impatant I had to make the vinyl roof trim on the car after it was painted which is definately a dumb thing to do. Managed without any scratches which really surprised me Used brass this time , heeps easier to work with and came out real well

Then this happened

Tryed making the stainless trim thats missing where the vinyl roof finishs, Used some old stainless off a hillman and fit it on a wreck that my brother has. Think it could have worked bit the stainless was hard to work with and didnt turn out as nice as I wanted

primed up and undersealed

Heeps of work going on in the background while the body was getting done, sourced alot of parts from japan, sandblast and painted chassis, was all in pretty good nick, think it had only done 96000kms

Car went off the panel beaters and I was blown away at how quick things happened. Usually would take me a year or more to sort all this mess out bit not three weeks later I get a call asking what colour I want it

Cause couldnt help myself and what toyota doesnt need a v12 The whole front sump crossmember steering box in the way makes this pretty unlikely to work but dreams are free

Surprised myself and had a few weeks left so started into the rust repairs Came up pretty well, no filler needed

So did something I never do and went and booked in a panel beater. Was due in a months time so I had a deadline which is the only way im likely to get things done. Stripped car down, plenty of rust

What have I got myself into

So brought this about 14months ago off @horndog He imported it for a parts car, got the jdm front and a few other pieces for his project Over the next while Ill chuck up some photos of progress to date. Plans where just a quick tidy up to get it legal and drive it. Got a bit carried away. Low kms and pretty straight bit rusty

Hi Ive got a couple of old enamel car badges that I want to get restored. Has anybody got a contact for someone that can do this kind of work? Got one done maybe 20years ago but I think the old chappy that did this has since retired/passed away Any help much appreciated Ray

Have got a 200a cigweld and wouldnt want anything smaller. Use it for allsorts. Good on panel steel but really on its upper limit if welding thicker steel. Say 12mm. Also works noticably better at my new house with a better power supply

My father just finished a full resto on a 770 convertable one of these. Lots of spares laying round and if theres something in particular im sure he could point you in right direction. Pm me if interested and ill give you his number

This ones got the option of a chuck or face plate on either end. So just setup shaft off centre using the chucks. Only has to rotate slowly but may still need a counter weight to offset for vibration. I Have ground an offset shaft by fitting an adaptor over the ends with drilled centres before and in some ways i think that could be better because you can use a dead centre and shouldnt get any runout. Best ive seen was some barry when i was an apprentice turned up a 6cyl crank for a race car and left the steel on the ends till it was finish machined and ground and these had the centres drilled in either end

The thought had crossed my mind. My zeds got an rb30 in it at the moment and can only just shut the bonnet so theres about 0 chance of getting a ford 6 in there. Was surprised how small the rods are in the ford engine. If you look at engine in the link above theres a mangled rod sitting on top that it spat out the bottom of the sump. Think its outa the earlier 240kw turbo ba falcon

Na, Stock l28 is 79mm ld28 is 83 and rb30 is 85mm which you can make fit with some machining as they have the same bore spacing, anything bigger then that and its gotta be custom made. Problem with the longer stroke is you run out of deck height to get a decent ratio. Also the bigger the throw on the crank the closer you get to side of the block. Just for a rough comparison heres a rb30(similar size to a l28) next to a barra 4.0l http://s249.photobucket.com/user/ja1lb8/media/20160625_101418.jpg.html And heres my grinder , havnt sat the grinding head back on it yet. Had to remove it get the weight down, think it comes in just over 4t And yes I know its a cylindrical grinder but its pretty easy to offset grind with these machines. http://s249.photobucket.com/user/ja1lb8/media/20160625_101418.jpg.html

Yea, thought I was onto a winner with the v57 block but no dice.Have heard of thick wall examples coming out of industrial appilacations, forklifs and gen sets. And yes Im well aware that using the l28 block would be much eaisier but i want to go bigger then 3.1l and looking more then 90mm of stroke. Sooo... have hacked up a few cranks,An RB30 and ld28 crank. Options are to offset grind using smaller journal rod, 45mm out of a honda that looked like it would work or new custom cank.I just installed a large churchill grinder in my workshop that should be suitiable this project i think?

A bit of background, building a stroker l28 nissan, been done a million times but I want to use a talldeck block out of a diesel with a petrol head. Also not uncommon Going to offset grind the crank for max stroke. I have my diesel block stripped down and brought a cheap ultra sonic tester in the hopes of measuring bore wall thickness. After a bit of research and aware that the probe on these testers isnt any good on the inside of a cylinder bore because of the radius i found a guy who just sat the probe in the bore with some sandpaper and shaped the end of it so it couples properley to the bore diameter. After doing this it pretty much makes the probe usless for flat surfaces , anyhow calibrated it on a known thickness as best I could using calipers and verniers to get a measurement down one of a water jacket and then measured in four places on all the cylinders. Thinnest being about 3.7mm which i thought was pretty thin for a diesel that hasnt been bored out before. So my queastion is what would be a guide for minimum thickness of the cylinder walls. Well be naturally aspirated

This is exactly what happened my cheap dizzy from v8 parts. Spend the money and get something decent

But late now but how bout just hammer a piece of wood in there thats a good fit before you cut the next one and pull it out once its tacked up. Hmm could risk getting it really stuck in there but could knock it out from the other end with a long bit of tube or something

have used several clutches from these guys and happy with them. 6 puk kevlar one side. Ceramic brass composite shit on the other side with a sprung centre. Can ride like a normal street car clutch in traffic without over heating. From memory i think it should hold 500hp but i spoke to the guy at autoclutch who was very helpfull and he asked for the dyno figures because its the torque thats the killer. Built the pressure plate to suite. Very heavy pedal initially but easy to ride and hold in once you pass a certain point. oh and all on a standard flywheel so i guess that really helps with the heat disapation.